New M1010 CUCV, power steering Q's...

[squaretaper]

My fiancee and I just bought our first CUCV- a clean M1010 than had been well cared for by the PO, who had installed a pro WVO setup with 110 gal of additional fuel storage. We'll be converting the box into a camper that can also function as a mobile workshop for me (I'm a welder and fabricator). That being said, I'm new to wrenching on trucks and am trying to figure out a problem with the steering-

The steering has been acting increasingly weird in the few weeks we've had the truck- it will pull to one side, and when turning the wheel to countersteer for that, it's as if I can feel the pump load up for a bit (now holding the wheel off-center to compensate for the tendency to pull one way) then suddenly it will steer the way I'm pulling, over the center, and I'll have to countersteer the opposite way to hold it straight. I end up tacking back and forth in the lane a bit. It's not always like this, but seems to do it especially after a hard turn.

Again, i'm new to wrenching but mechanically inclined and good with wiring and circuits- I'm still aquiring tools specific to the truck. I've got wrenches, sockets, impact, the basics, but am a bit intimidated with big stuff on the truck. You all here are obviously a great resource for these wonderful trucks- thanks in advance for any help and I hope to be able to contribute to the knowledge base as I spend more time working on the M1010.

Josh

 

[Iceman3005]

You have a worn out steering box, I have two of the m1008's and I replaced every part in the steering except for the steering box, took it in for an alignment and the tech said that the box was worn out. Has the exact same symptoms as your describing even after I replaced everything except for the steering box.

 

[squaretaper]

Thanks for the reply. Do you know if the box is a part I can pull from a civvy K30 or Suburban, or was it unique to the CUCVs?

 

[squaretaper]

Also, is there a surefire way to test the steering box for fault? I've checked the tie rods, pitman arm and linkage, and kingpins for jerky movement or slop while parked and my lady turning the wheel- all looks ok save for a sort of a "pop" where the shaft the pitman arm is attached to (on the steering box) drops down out of the box about 3/8" around centered steering- it doesn't (look like it) affects the smoothness of the steering at the wheels, though. I don't know if that is normal.

 

[Skinny]

I think all the boxes are the same but I'd check a few years on Rockauto to cross reference the numbers before buying. I would probably spend alittle extra money for a quality reman if this is a work truck. Another thing to check are the tie for ends and kingpins to make sure none are loose or in this case seized/binding.

I live near southern NH and remember seeing an M1010 recently on ebay or craigslist that had two fuel cells in the box for WVO. Why do I get the feeling this is the same truck? I'm pretty sure it was a local guy.

 

[squaretaper]

Yeah, its the same- bought it from Steve down in Rehoboth a few weeks back. He was extremely helpful- like I said, I'm new to trucks and diesel for the most part,although I've done a little work on the Volvo 2cyl on our sailboat, and Steve took the time to run though everything with me. It was his personal, and I got the feeling he'd bought and sold his share of CUCVs, so I took that as a good sign for the truck. The WVO setup is very well done- heated tank, double heated filters- runs extremely smoothly on the grease. The steering was great on the test drive- maybe a little pull to the right (Steve had plowed with the truck and though maybe the pass rear drum was a bit tight or jammed up from the FWD/REV cycling over the winter) and then after getting it back to Boston, the pulling back and forth over centered steering problem began.

Your M1031 looks great- ever think of making it into a pop-up camper?

 

[tourus]

just to throw out another idea check your u-joints in the axles if one is bad it will bind then release .. also make sure front springs are tight and that you don't have a broken center bolt.. also make sure your steering shock is not binding up take one end off and make sure that it goes in and out freely.. A lot of things to check before you change parts out.. I would first jack up the front end and try it with the tires off the ground. and go from there. Also could be something in the steering column..

 

[tourus]

Also could have a brake caliper not releasing and binding up

 

[Keith_J]

For parts, you can look up the part number in the parts TM (-20P or -34P), then type that in to the Rockauto part number search. Often from there, more info can be had as far as cross reference...for the steering gear box, I did that and found this
:http://www.cardone.com/Products/Product-Detail?productId=277524&p=rock

Sure enough, that is common to all CUCVs as can be seen in the -20P or -34P as the UOC (useable on code) is for all variants.

 

[squaretaper]

That's great info, thank you Keith. Do you know if that means the Jeep XJ steering mod, which I hear is a great improvement for the M1009s, can be done on the M1008/1010s? I'd prefer to upgrade rather than just return to status quo if I'm gonna do the work....

 

[Skinny]

Sounds like the WVO is working well, gotta be safe with those alternative fuels. If you understand simple diesels and basic marine wiring, you'll have no issues with the CUCV. Everything is either mechanically, electrically, or vacuum operated. The GP controller is the most complex piece of engineering other than the driver.

I was was going to do some type of camper theme or get a HMMWV trailer (M101A3 I believe) but decided to focus attention on a boat. Under contract for a 34' Mainship Trawler to liveaboard on this summer. Chicks dig boats more than MVs Although my kind of woman would dig Cuck Vees and hate snobby powerboaters HAHAHAHAHA

 

[fitz]

I've been watching your new truck on craigslist for the last 2 years as well as seeing it in person. Its a clean truck, congratulations on your new toy.. How does it drive with the 3.73 gears Steve had installed?

 

[Keith_J]

That's great info, thank you Keith. Do you know if that means the Jeep XJ steering mod, which I hear is a great improvement for the M1009s, can be done on the M1008/1010s? I'd prefer to upgrade rather than just return to status quo if I'm gonna do the work....

I have no idea, the 1009 has a corporate (GM) axle while the others have a Dana 60. There are plenty of differences. One thing the D60 needs checking is upper king pin bushings and springs, an easy fix if you ever have death wobble.

 

[squaretaper]

Fitz, thanks for the kind words. She drives great, besides the wonky steering, and is doing 1800 rpm on the freeway. Steve was doing a good bit of towing with her, so it seems she hasn't suffered in that regard from the regearing.

 

[squaretaper]

Skinny- my lady loves the m1010 and hates snobby boaters- it was her idea to buy the 33' sloop we liveaboard on now

 

[Iceman3005]

Yes a K-30, K-20, K-10 steering box will work as long as it is an 81 or newer. All the steering boxes for all chevy's are the same, didn't matter if it was a 1/2 ton, 1 ton, or a cucv. Here are some part numbers: A-1 CARDONE Part # 277524, ACDELCO Part # 360517524, these are all remanufactured and they cost about $200-300 with a 100 dollar core, so after core $100-200. Off Road design sells ported boxes for $427, that way if you want to add hydro assist later on you have the box already.

 

[Iceman3005]

If you want cross-over steering here is a great place to start http://www.offroaddesign.com/catalog/Dana60crossover.htm

 

[m38inmaine]

+1 for the axle u-joint check, had this happen to me as well, not an easy one to figure out.

 

[squaretaper]

Haven't got a new jack yet and the 3ton from the old 'Yota pickup looks too small- I was able to check the U-joints with my lady turning the wheel on the ground- they seem to bind and pop a little- I hoped them down with PB Blaster and there had been an improvement. Took the truck to a mechanic, he looked at it, drove it, and is pretty sure the weirdness that is left is the steering box. My question for you all- is replacing the box a difficult thing to do on my own or should I pay a pro to do it? I assume it will need an alignment afterwards- should I just leave this up to the mechanic?

Also, can I lube the U-joints on the truck or do they have to be pulled to be serviced?


Found a AC Delco reman for $130 with core exchange. Seems like a screamin' deal.

 

[Skinny]

Hardest part of that job is getting the pitman arm off the steering box, usually requires a puller and sometimes heat. I would go the extra step and replace the PS lines as well while you have them disconnected. Of course this leads to replacing/flushing out the old PS fluid as well. All great things and good maintenance!

The puller can usually be rented for free from Autozone. You would not need an alignment but will need to recenter the steering wheel with a draglink adjustment once everything is assembled. Seems to be the theme with old rigs but I personally would also replace the draglink just because it is relatively cheap, you have to remove part of it anyway for this job, is good insurance, and most likely will be frozen or create bloody knuckles trying to adjust.

Cheers