New M1010 owner, Central California

[HoJoPo]

Just picked up a 1984 M1010, former Antelope Valley Search and Rescue mobile HQ (next to last owner).

The previous owner (not AVSR), put new batteries in it... and then didn't understand where things went, and wired them in parallel instead of series (had to add a generic automotive battery cable to do it). I boiled a couple batteries on the way home....

and I was lucky. One of the two batteries was fried, so a couple new Optima red tops and the wiring connected correctly (12v tap on the negative terminal of the rear battery), and she's working great. Volt meter works, the AC runs at the proper speed now (and chills nicely), starts MUCH faster (hope that new starter AVSR put in wasn't 12V... it might not last long, went from 5-10 seconds of cranking to instant start). 26.8 volts across both batteries, 13.5 across the front when charging.

I'm an amateur radio operator (KC7DRT), and want to put my radio shack in my CUCV. There's already a table that's been built on the driver's side, the heater and bench are still in place on the passenger side. I'll get some pictures tomorrow.

Currently painted black with a white top, which will be OK for now. Might paint it silver on top, blue on the bottom later.... I want silver or white for heat, gets hot here in Central California. Still has CARC underneath, so that's something to consider too....

Looks like the alternator belts might be too long, both are at the limit of their adjustment, but at least they're not squealing any more. I'm reading the FAQs and searching on here, but does anyone know off-hand what the belt part numbers are for the alternators on the M1010?

The blackout light has been painted (thick overspray on the lens), anyone know if the lens is glass or plastic? I haven't disassembled it yet to check.

Amazingly... nothing leaks at the moment, except for the coolant reservoir. I assume a standard 1984 K30 reservoir will fit?

Oh, and the passenger front upper shock mount is broken. And there's an exhaust leak on the driver's side (good thing it doesn't have to be smogged). And a hole in the roof where they removed the spotlight... *grumble*

Speaking of California (smog)... my CUCV has a commercial (1X12345) license plate. Since it's an ambulance body set up for hauling people (airconditioned, heated, bench, table, etc), I'm hoping I can get DMV to see that it should be a passenger (1XXX123) plate instead. Should save on the registration, since it's a heavy beast. Fortunately the plates are good through April of next year.

I may add a deep cycle battery bank (2 12V in parallel) to the rear for the radios and other accessories. I should be able to charge it off of the truck, since the DUVAC system is working....

If the DUVAC dies, I may remove the top 24V alternator and replace it with a 12V, and feed the 12V systems from the batteries in the back. This should simplify things immensely, and the extra 24V alternator would make a good spare.

I'm considering putting a Premier Power Welder in as the 12V alternator... though they're darned pricey.

Oh, and the mounting bracket is there for the military antenna, but the antenna mount and whip are gone. I'm not sure if a 9 foot whip on top is a good idea anyway.

 

[Bad_Carp]

Do I really need to say it?

 

[HoJoPo]

Do I really need to say it?

I did say,

I'll get some pictures tomorrow.

It was dark once I got the battery situation straightened out, pictures will be coming....

 

[Bad_Carp]

I did say,



It was dark once I got the battery situation straightened out, pictures will be coming....

Noted, I lost that in the text. My bad.

 

[Cucvnut]

The dmv wont change the plates. The fee's go on how heavy the truck is. Where in central CA are you? The black out lights are plastic lenses.

 

[HoJoPo]

The dmv wont change the plates. The fee's go on how heavy the truck is. Where in central CA are you? The black out lights are plastic lenses.

I'm in Hanford.

I had DMV give me passenger plates for a motorhome built on a Dodge Ram 3500 chassis (Serro Scotty HiLander), so it may be possible to get them to change the PK on the title to MH, since I'm going to fit out the back for a bit of camping in addition to the radio operation. Since the registration isn't due until next April, I may wait until then to fight it (or at least until I have the water system, fridge, porta-potty, etc. in place). I did have to bring it in a prove it was a Motorhome, and that it didn't have a bed with removable cargo (like a pickup camper). I think the M1010 should meet those criteria....

Plastic... rats, I shouldn't hit it with MEK to remove the paint then... or try using scotchbrite. I guess I'll have to look for a NOS one to get the lens from, if I want it to work better.

Anyone know of a source for the roof mounted spotlight? I'm also going to need the brake pedal pad and parking brake pad, but I assume they're the same as the civvie K30 so they shouldn't be too hard to come by.

Picked up a cheap CUCV key on e-bay, I'll see if it fits the door locks. I should probably re-key it anyway, I have the GM steering wheel tools from my AMC adventures ('82 Eagle SX/4, '84 CJ-7, etc.), so I know the process (re-keyed the CJ-7.)

Due to the 24/12v battery foulup, it looks (and smells) like I may need a new glow plug controller (it didn't like 24v). I found a new one (newly manufactured) on eBay, for $69, I'll probably pick one up. At ignition on, the glow plug "Wait" lights up but never goes out. I may need to replace the glow plugs too, or possibly the sensor.

At 62 MPH on the way home (I5), I averaged about 14 MPG. Probably should have slowed down, but it liked to run.... 23,142 miles on the clock now. Engine sounds great. I may just do a 4l80e install to gain some overdrive, if I can't find a cheaper solution (gear vendors, etc). Engine seemed to pull fine, just needs more gears....

I've attached some pics, for those interested.

 

[Cucvnut]

Cool rig I used to live in Lemoore

 

[jvrotter]

How tall is the box on the inside? Can you stand up in it?

 

[srodocker]

Beautiful truck. would love one of those some day.

 

[WARWAG]

How tall is the box on the inside? Can you stand up in it?

Can you stand up in it? If so, how tall are you? Thanks.

 

[HoJoPo]

Can you stand up in it? If so, how tall are you? Thanks.

I suppose if you're short enough...

It's 65 inches (5 foot 5 inches) inside. I'm 6 foot, so I can't stand up in it, but it's not that big of an issue.

The inside of the ambulance is 75 inches wide by 109 inches long. A 74" folding RV sofa should work quite nicely on the passenger side, and give a queen sized bed when folded down.

I'm considering an Engel 12/24V DC / 120VAC RV fridge for it, the 60 quart model (including little freezer/ice cube tray compartment) would cost about $720 for the SR70F-U1 (vibration resistant rugged version). I could put a switch to select the 12V battery bank I'm going to build or the 24V chassis batteries, and it would also support AC for when I have it plugged in / on generator. 2.4A on 12V, 1.2A on 24V, .7A on AC when running, they're efficient little beasties.

I already have a 60 quart ARB/Engel fridge that will run on either 12/24V or 120VAC, and a smaller 15 quart model (12/24V only), so I might just use the 15quart as a freezer and the 60 for a fridge. The 60 quart is a chest model, so it's not ideal for use in the M1010 where floor space will be at a premium.

Throw in a microwave, propane stove and a porta-potti, along with some water cans, and it's an RV.

There's also some nice diesel fueled cooktops (sealed units, vent outside, designed for sailboats) that might work out well for the kitchen, and would save me from having to add a propane tank. Kinda pricey though, when a Coleman stove will work just fine with some ventilation.

I'll probably put a small 110Vac room air conditioner through the passenger side rear door, so I don't have to run the engine for air conditioning. I figure it's better through the rear door than to have it sticking out the side... and it gets hot around here.

 

[HoJoPo]

Just a small update, fixed a few minor problems and she's still running great. 4th of July weekend I'm going to get some of the radios installed, and maybe take her for a field test (though with 100+ degree temps predicted, I might not go far.)

CA DMV re-did the vehicle classification from PK (which was charging a weight fee, over $280 a year for commercial registration), to a PM (Pickup with permanently mounted camper, $120 a year for automobile registration). My call-sign license plates are on their way, and I've received the registration for them already. It was only $21 for the call sign plate, but it's the only set of call sign plates I can get (in this state anyway)... renewal is cheaper than other personalized plates as well.

 

[chevymike]

Cool rig. Though I sold mine (awaiting shipper to pick up) I was going to build mine as a camper. Here was a drawing I did to get an idea of what I was going to do.

 

[HoJoPo]

Nice plans for a traditional style camper.

I'm going to keep the bench on the passenger side, but mount a jack-knife couch to it (keeping the storage and diesel fueled heater). The remainder of the facilities will be carried loose (coleman stove, engel fridge, porta-potti, etc.), but I may build some overhead cabinets, as well as another set of shelves on the driver's side like the ones that are on the passenger side (between the front wall and the stretcher carrier rack.)

 

[docfarmall]

Just got mine home tonight will post pics tomorrow they are sweet

 

[HoJoPo]

Got a kitchen....

Well, I've picked up a Thetford Porta-Potti for it, and just found a kitchen (complete setup) from a Volkswagen Westfalia, so I now have a sink, water tank, 2 burner stove, and three way (propane/AC/DC) fridge, all in a nice little cabinet.

I have to splice or repair the vent lines, but all the wiring, hoses, regulator, and exterior vent are there for it. Oh, and there was a 1500W 12V/120V inverter included, all for $300.

I'll have to track down a frame mount propane bottle, or build a compartment to hold a horizontal portable RV bottle (I might go with the horizontal bottle with the built in gauge.) I'll also have to get a gray water tank to match the capacity of the freshwater tank I got with it, which included the level sensors and water pump. All in all, definitely worth the $300.

 

[natem]

Sweet setup.....................I've been pricing parts at the rv dealers, wow.

Cant wait to see some installed pics

Nate

 

[HoJoPo]

Sweet setup.....................I've been pricing parts at the rv dealers, wow.

Cant wait to see some installed pics

Nate

I'll have to figure out whether I want to install it forward with the desktop behind, or vice-versa. I'd like to put it up forward, but the plumbing / venting may determine where it goes. I'm not sure I want the fridge exhaust too close to the fuel filler, so mounting it in the rear corner might be best.

I may fab up a spare tire carrier for the rear driver's door and put the water tanks under the rear where the spare is, so the plumbing runs will be short. The propane tank will probably have to go on the passenger side, under the floor, next to the frame at the front of the ambulance box.

The guy wouldn't budge off of $300 (his asking price), he had two guys call and ask "can you hold it for two weeks until I get the money?" and his brother was interested in it too. He paid that for it off of e-bay, wouldn't take a loss. The fridge alone is probably worth double that used in working condition....

He did test out the fridge and stove, they're supposedly working fine on propane, and the fridge on 120V and 12V as well. The inverter should work too... though, if course, I won't know until I get it all together myself.

Oh, and since all the wiring is there, along with a heavy duty fuse block, wiring it up shouldn't be too difficult.

Now finding a nice jack knife couch for the other side that isn't $500 with $200 shipping may be fun... I'll have to check with the local RV dealer and RV wrecking yards.

 

[natem]

If you can try and keep the fridge over or in front of rear axle, it won't like a lot of bouncing around.

Are you keeping the original heater?

 

[HoJoPo]

I'm keeping the original heater for now, though if I do a 12V conversion down the road it will probably go away to be replaced by an RV style propane furnace instead. Of course, I could use the space the heater takes for the propane bottle storage, leaving the passenger side frame for a second fuel tank if I want....

I'm considering adding an RV rooftop air conditioner or removing the stock AC from the box and mounting a window style unit in it's place up forward. It would be nice to have air conditioning without the engine running. I'd then add cab air, since it gets so hot here in central Cali.

As for mounting the fridge close to the axle, I may not have much choice about mounting it toward the rear due to the venting situation. These little Dometic units are pretty stout, I think it would be OK to the rear.

If you've ever ridden in a fifth wheel trailer in motion, there's no way it would be worse than that at the rear of my CUCV.