First, a sincere thanks to all the contributors here! The sharing of knowledge and experience has helped me save time, money and blood. I've been an admirer of the board and the members and their vehicles for a long time and finally took the plunge. I took delivery of my 1078 in April and have been in the shop or mud since then.
When it was delivered I did the same as most and started with the Tm's and Pm's. Then moved on to the Bm's (the stuff from the last mechanic). Also like most, I immediately started replacing or repairing air valves, wiring, breakers and ........
Anyway, the reason for my sudden posting is that I ran across a few tips that may benefit others and I won't be posting a full project page until I freeze my balls to the shop floor. Once.
Cab lift.
If your cab and spare lift are slow or do not work, after you have checked the fluid level and air supply at the air/hydraulic unit, check the pump inlet strainer inside the reservoir. It's on the bottom of the pump. Mine slowly plugged up until the lifts quit working. After cleaning, the unit worked like new.
Cab air springs.
I repaired the cracked and leaking air shocks by installing new firestone airbag sleeves on the shock assembly. I used Firestone w02-358-7074 sleeves and attached them using CV boot clamps and Marine Goop. They have held up for 1100 miles so far.
CTIS Valve stem.
The fuel injection relief valve from a ford fits the CTIS valve as a replacement valve stem. The new part has a deep seated valve core, so you will need to file down the face of the stem a little to be able to trip the pin fully with an air chuck. Threads are the same but the wrench size is different. PN= Motorcraft CM3461.
Hard shift/ high RPM shift.
Check for a Transmission code 2112. TPS (throttle position sensor) high or low. Repair the problem and reset throttle count. According to Allison Troubleshooting, even if you replace the TPS and clear the code, you will still have to reset the throttle count. The TM said that could be done using the trans. control pad, ignition switch and throttle. It did not work for me. I was never able to get the appropriate clear tone (two beeps after holding for approx 10 sec.). A $75 trip to allison got the codes cleared, TPS adjusted and pressures confirmed. Well worth the peace of mind and smooth shifts.
Hope I helped someone. I'll post again when it freezes.
When it was delivered I did the same as most and started with the Tm's and Pm's. Then moved on to the Bm's (the stuff from the last mechanic). Also like most, I immediately started replacing or repairing air valves, wiring, breakers and ........
Anyway, the reason for my sudden posting is that I ran across a few tips that may benefit others and I won't be posting a full project page until I freeze my balls to the shop floor. Once.
Cab lift.
If your cab and spare lift are slow or do not work, after you have checked the fluid level and air supply at the air/hydraulic unit, check the pump inlet strainer inside the reservoir. It's on the bottom of the pump. Mine slowly plugged up until the lifts quit working. After cleaning, the unit worked like new.
Cab air springs.
I repaired the cracked and leaking air shocks by installing new firestone airbag sleeves on the shock assembly. I used Firestone w02-358-7074 sleeves and attached them using CV boot clamps and Marine Goop. They have held up for 1100 miles so far.
CTIS Valve stem.
The fuel injection relief valve from a ford fits the CTIS valve as a replacement valve stem. The new part has a deep seated valve core, so you will need to file down the face of the stem a little to be able to trip the pin fully with an air chuck. Threads are the same but the wrench size is different. PN= Motorcraft CM3461.
Hard shift/ high RPM shift.
Check for a Transmission code 2112. TPS (throttle position sensor) high or low. Repair the problem and reset throttle count. According to Allison Troubleshooting, even if you replace the TPS and clear the code, you will still have to reset the throttle count. The TM said that could be done using the trans. control pad, ignition switch and throttle. It did not work for me. I was never able to get the appropriate clear tone (two beeps after holding for approx 10 sec.). A $75 trip to allison got the codes cleared, TPS adjusted and pressures confirmed. Well worth the peace of mind and smooth shifts.
Hope I helped someone. I'll post again when it freezes.
