no start after 3 month sit

[Sp0okfish]

Last year I rolled my m1008 and crushed the cab. I drove it around the house several times after being wrecked. Then loaded(drove) it onto equipment trailer to take it to the farm.(going to swap cabs). Drove it around there several times. About every week would go down and start it up. Then left it for about 3 months went to go start it and the batteries where dead still 24vs. Charged both batteries and had them tested they were both good. Put batteries back it now glow plugs cycled, go to fire it up nothing only noise is the relay in the cab clunking. Took starter off had it tested it would excite but barely turn over. got it rebuilt, put it back into truck. Go to turn key glow plugs cycle go to fire it up still nothing but relay clicking. Cleaned all terminals checked ground on the block. All connections on the buss bar still nothing. So im stumped I checked for any wires chewed by mice or squirrels no signs of that. don't know if I should just leave it be and hope that when I put new cab on it will start or try and figure out what is causing it not to start. any advice or ideas of how to get it going again would be appreciated

 

[trukhead]

Taking for granted all functions such as coolant, oil pressure and the electricity is up to snuff, take a can of the old WD-40 ( the stuff that is flammable) or Shaffers super penetro 90 and spray down as best you can, spray down a short burst each port and the plenum of the other 2 ports that go under the adjacent side of the manifold. I use this method to start recalcitrant 6.2 diesels.
The old fashioned WD-40 or the sujper penetro 90 will not cause pre-ignition dings and bust up the engine.
Never never ever ever never use ether, it'll bust up the engine. Oh did I say, don't use ether.

 

[Sp0okfish]

Taking for granted all functions such as coolant, oil pressure and the electricity is up to snuff, take a can of the old WD-40 ( the stuff that is flammable) or Shaffers super penetro 90 and spray down as best you can, spray down a short burst each port and the plenum of the other 2 ports that go under the adjacent side of the manifold. I use this method to start recalcitrant 6.2 diesels.
The old fashioned WD-40 or the sujper penetro 90 will not cause pre-ignition dings and bust up the engine.
Never never ever ever never use ether, it'll bust up the engine. Oh did I say, don't use ether.

It doesn't turn over though the starter does nothing.

 

[Warthog]

Have you done the Doghead Relay upgrade?

Do you have a multimeter and know how to use it?

 

[trukhead]

It doesn't turn over though the starter does nothing.

Have you done the Doghead Relay upgrade?

Do you have a multimeter and know how to use it?

If you have no clicking noise, the signal is not getting to the solenoid on the starter. On the CUCV, that signal is generated from a relay referred to in the "doghead modification".
Do a search to familiarize yourself with the "doghead modification"
You could jump the starter terminals to make the engine turn over or you could cross the relay (referred to in the "doghead modification") wire to get it to go.
I am vague because the vehicle is not in front on me. It is trial and error and testing of circuits to determine where the electricity is and is not.
You could disconnect the start wire form the starter and work backwards with the VOM determining where you have and don't have a signal when you turn the key.
It is worth your time to download the TMs and copy the wiring diagrams. The wiring harness is not the place to start hacking.

 

[smokeeater495]

Who tested the batteries? Did they check voltage or put them under load? They need to be load tested.

 

[Sp0okfish]

If you have no clicking noise, the signal is not getting to the solenoid on the starter. On the CUCV, that signal is generated from a relay referred to in the "doghead modification".
Do a search to familiarize yourself with the "doghead modification"
You could jump the starter terminals to make the engine turn over or you could cross the relay (referred to in the "doghead modification") wire to get it to go.
I am vague because the vehicle is not in front on me. It is trial and error and testing of circuits to determine where the electricity is and is not.
You could disconnect the start wire form the starter and work backwards with the VOM determining where you have and don't have a signal when you turn the key.
It is worth your time to download the TMs and copy the wiring diagrams. The wiring harness is not the place to start hacking.

I have not done the doghead relay mod. I will go ahead and do it. See what happens from there. Yes I have a volt meter, and know how to use it.

 

[Sp0okfish]

Who tested the batteries? Did they check voltage or put them under load? They need to be load tested.

Autozone and yes they were load tested

 

[taylorbsmith]

Might sound crazy, but check the battery connections make sure they are making a good connection. I had the same problem before and one of my batter cables was tight on the battery but loose within the connector.

 

[Sp0okfish]

Might sound crazy, but check the battery connections make sure they are making a good connection. I had the same problem before and one of my batter cables was tight on the battery but loose within the connector.

I will triple check them just to make sure. If had a bad connection though I dont think the glow plugs would cycle they draw a pretty good amount of power.

 

[markg]

while you are in the process of doing the doghead relay mod, jump across the relay plug under the dash , your starter should spin. if not you have a bad connection somewhere else.

 

[engineman2]

I second the jumping of the relay under the dash! Also it could be a bad ignition switch, if it's not telling the relay to send power to the solenoid.