No Start Issue Since Dying While Driving

[chevymike]

Hi all,

Been reading a bunch of threads, watching video and general searching. Little confused why I cannot get my M1010 to start. Here is what happened. Last weekend I was driving fine, about 40mph. All of a sudden I feel it loosing power so I get over to the side of the road as I was slowing down. Engine was still running but no response to the throttle. As it slow to a stop the engine quit. Tried a couple times to restart and no go. Popped the hood and disconnected/reconnected the fuel solenoid wire. Tried again and it struggled to fire off but finally did. Seemed okay and would rev with the throttle. Put it in gear to take off and it rev'ed slightly and then died. Would not restart. Had it towed home.

Glow plugs and solenoid replace 500 miles again and appear to be working with card or by manually triggering solenoid. Thinking possible fuel filter, replaced with new and was able to bleed fuel so it makes me think lift pump is working. I did find I had no power to the injector solenoid and found a fuse bad. Replaced it and get 12+ volts there. I can also manually trigger the injector solenoid and I can hear a good click. I cracked all of the injector lines and cranked with full throttle and I am getting fuel out of each line.

It cranks well (showing about 300rpm on my tach) and after about 5-6 attempts, I will charge the batteries just to make sure I have good cranking power. At this point it doesn't even try to start. Just spins. I don't want to just start throwing parts at it hoping something works.

My bad feeling is injector pump and the reason I say this is. My last M1010 had way more power than this one, even on 35" tall tires (this one is on 33"). It seems from what I have read, low power but otherwise running fine tends to be injector pump.

Thoughts?

 

[Garagefull]

That blown fuse throws a little bit of confusion in there. I am afraid that I would have to try a solenoid before I changed out that pump. Just because it is clicking, doesn’t mean that you’re getting the right amount of travel. I’ve been driving 6.2s since 1986 and I’ve only had one solenoid fail. I never did understand the bad rap on these engines, I’ve drove untold miles in these things and only had a few worn out injection pumps and a broken valve spring and a bad solenoid. But then again I drove an old 5.7 L Oldsmobile diesel to 209,000 miles, and never had a bit of trouble out of it. I even had one of the old 4.3 L V6 diesel’s in a olds, With its only issue being that it Like to munch on V belts for some reason.

 

[chevymike]

That blown fuse throws a little bit of confusion in there. I am afraid that I would have to try a solenoid before I changed out that pump. Just because it is clicking, doesn’t mean that you’re getting the right amount of travel. I’ve been driving 6.2s since 1986 and I’ve only had one solenoid fail. I never did understand the bad rap on these engines, I’ve drove untold miles in these things and only had a few worn out injection pumps and a broken valve spring and a bad solenoid. But then again I drove an old 5.7 L Oldsmobile diesel to 209,000 miles, and never had a bit of trouble out of it. I even had one of the old 4.3 L V6 diesel’s in a olds, With its only issue being that it Like to munch on V belts for some reason.

That's a thought. Never heard much about solenoid going bad by not having enough travel. Seems like a work or don't work deal.

 

[Backwoods deuce]

You have a fuel pressure delivery problem it sounds like. But the solenoid fuse is the outlier here that’s strange. Could still be possible though.

Also make sure you don’t have corrosion on the wire under the insulation causing high resistance. Would it run better when the pump temp was cooler and get weaker the longer it was driving?

Ive seen lift pumps get weak from bad diaphragms. Or better yet my 6.2 lift pump bolts backed out and wouldnt allow the pump to fully pump. Guess the previous owner didn’t get them tight.

 

[chevymike]

Spent more time yesterday troubleshooting why the M1010 won't start. Pulled the glow plugs so it can crank easily. Checked and cleaned the return valve so I know it is working. Used about 3-4psi of air pressure on the return line at the pump to the tank. At first it seemed plugged. After a couple tries at the, I finally heard air bubbling in the tank. I got some clear line and got all the air out of the filter and getting good, clear flow out the pump return fitting. It seems like the lift pump is working fine.

One thing I noticed is I was not getting any fuel mist out the plug holes, which indicates no fuel at the injectors. I decided to test the cutoff solenoid again and I am not getting a distinct clunk from it. This was also the wire that had a dead fuse when I first started checking a couple weeks back.

I think the solenoid is bad. Ordered a replacement. Gotta wait for that to show up. Fingers crossed that's it.

 

[cucvrus]

What fuse are you referring to that controls the injection pump? I want to learn. I never seen a fuse that controls the injection pump. Do tell. I would think it has a fusible link and don't know that either. I mean I started some CUCV engines that had the wiring hacked to pieces and no fuse box present. Just asking because I didn't know. Take Care.

 

[chevymike]

The fuse labeled #17. That was blown and I had no power to the fuel cutoff solenoid. I replaced that fuse and I had power to the solenoid.

 

[cucvrus]

I may be wrong but when I pull that fuse it disables the glow plugs system and the wait light goes out. I will be sure to check that and verify. Like I said I had several that were hacked up from DRMO and still was able to start them with jumper wires and a jump pack hooked up. Never seen a fuse for the injection pump power wire. Could be. But I do want to check that. May have taught me something I didn't know.

 

[chevymike]

Wanted to close this problem out. I got the new solenoid in (bought a German made one versus China). Took me two times to get the cover installed without anything binding up. Once I did, I checked the solenoid was clicking as it should be and it was. Happy with that, I started the process to getting it fired up. Took about six 15-20 second tries but it finally fired up and smoothed out to a nice idle.

Downside was, I managed to drop one of the injector cover bolts and it disappeared (not in the valley as I had the bolt over by the front battery and it dropped and was gone). So I still need to get that replaced and then tight up the throttle cable bracket.

Guessing the solenoid failed, pulled too many amps and then blew the fuse. I tested it off the truck and though it did function, it did not click over like the new one did. New one was a very positive click.