Now, what? Help!

[dabtl]

OK, after messing with the steering box on and off, mostly off, for a couple of weeks, let me recount.

First, there are differences in the trucks as they were not computer made parts. I got Military Vehicles No. 116, with the steering gear removal article. Close, but no cigar on my truck. The engine was just about 1/4 inch to the driver's side too close. Every bolt but the last came out with some wiggling and thinking.

So, I went to Northern Tool and bought the two ton hoist. It is just barely tall enough to do the job. I got soldier B, my kid on the job, we took the front and rear motor mounts loose. Kicked it about 1/4 in the air from the front and out it came.

The box looks OK. The bushings show wear and will be replaced. The bearings on the steering shaft appear tight and the bearings on the steering shaft are OK also.

Any thing else I need to look at while it is apart?

 

[m-35tom]

if everything looks ok, why did you take it apart?? don't forget to replace the seal with a NEW one, not nos

 

[hndrsonj]

If I remember right the only things are the bearings and retainers. Look for wear then put back together with right setting and it will be good as new. It was probably set wrong with the screw in the back side. Hard to say without seeing it.

 

[acetomatoco]

Check for the MWO on the mounting bolts etc

 

[dabtl]

I got it put back into the truck last evening. I replaced the bushings and steering shaft bearings. The steering arm and bearings checked out fine. Used a new seal, quick replacement, fortunately.

For anyone attempting this a couple of things should be kept in mind.

First, the steering gear box is impossibly close to the engine. If you attempt to repair the steering gear, first check the clearance on the bolt nearest the cab on top for clearance. The bolt will either be just a little long, allowing you to wiggle the box around and remove it, or, as in my case, it simply hits the IP and will not clear. If it will clear, you can persevere and remove the 3/8 coarse thread 1 1/2 long bolts, remove the steering arm and box, just as set out in MV #116.

If it will not clear, get a two ton hoist, about $150 at Northern Tool, remove the four bolts from the engine mounts and lift the motor about one inch, perhaps a bit more. The engine and radiator are on the same mounts, I did not have to remove anything else. Use caution, however, you may encounter something I did not. All the bolts will come out easily and rapidly at that point. Pull the steering shaft and bearings at that time. Turn the steering arm down and pull out the assembly.

I found using the hoist made everything much simpler. I do not favor the TM method of moving the engine to the side, too many parts to remove in that method.

Second, do not get in a hurry. Putting the gear box on a bench, checking and assembling the parts is different from putting it together in the truck. When putting the steering shaft into place, concern yourself first with the positioning of the lower bearing first. Don't try to put the shaft and both sets of bearings in the box at the same time or you risk jamming the lower bearing and tossing the bearings out of the bracket. Ask me how I know that sometime.

Memphis Equipment is a great source for parts for this. I also recommend highly BP Blaster to loosen bolts and nuts. A great product in my opinion. I used this on the Pitman arm to great effect.

Use the heavy duty gear puller for the Pitman Arm from any auto supply house. O'Reilly is where I got mine. You have to grind perhaps an 1/8 inch from the jaws to fit the Pitman Arm. I posted a pic of this puller on another thread here.

To remove the steering wheel, a puller from Saturn, part #6200020 at $74.50, was the best I can imagine. Popped off in seconds. When I get the stuff finally installed I will loan out the puller to anyone needing it, for freight both ways of course.

Next I will reinstall the horn using the newer button in the new wheel from TNJ Murray.

All in all it was a satisfying experience.

My next chore will be the locking hubs from jatonka.