Oil change

[Jake0147]

A couple of quick questions, as I believe that tomorrow will finally be an opportunity for me to tinker a bit with my oil and coolant leaks.

First question-
at a generous 1/8 inch, maybe 3/16 under the full mark on the dipstick (after sitting for some time) can I squeak all of the oil into a five gallon pail or is that pressing my luck? I have squat to work with here at home, so dumping it directly into an available sealed transportable container would be a great labor and mess, and general logistics saver.

Second question-
My understanding is that this truck has spent it's last few years with Shell Rotella T in the 15W-40 flavor. I like the oil (based on research for modern light/medium diesel engines), and intend to use it unless anyone have any concerns with it in this application.

Third question-
While I'm at it, I'll be flushing/filling the coolant. Does anyone recommend any specific brands/types as ready to go, or is the current coolant plus a DCA the way to go to prevent cavitation? I'm assuming cavitation is an issue with these just as in modern sleeved engines?

Last question-
If I get to it, I might start with switching out a couple of tires. What is the jack/jack stand required to lift one rear wheel end at a time? I'm guessing the walking suspension means that 2000 pounds would be adequate? There is nothing in the truck.

Thanks in advance.

 

[poppop]

Without checking I think you will max out a five gallon bucket. I usually use two and change out before the first gets full. I think as long as you use a good quality diesel oil it would be OK and I try to use the same oil in all of my equipment for simplcity reasons. But with my Military trucks since the Gov. saw fit to stencil rotella 15w-40 on the engines that is what I use in them. I use regular green anti-freeze in mine as that is what I keep on hand for my farm equipment and add the same DCA product I use in my diesel equipment. As for the jack a 2000 pound would probably do the job but if you have to buy one anyway why not get at least a 12000 pound one. It will not cost much more and will be a lot more versitile. That is what I carry in my truck when I go on trips.

 

[FreightTrain]

You can use one 5 gallon bucket.Just drain the front sump first.If only about 4 gallons comes out you can get the rear sump.The oil pan is divided by a hump in the middle to clear the axle.When mine was about 1/4" low on the dip I could use a standard 5 gallon pale.Another thing you can do is dump the front sump stuff in the tank.Run it though a filter bag though and dump it in.Then go for the rear sump.Or you could just put the filter in the bucket and filter it as it is draining.As for the antifreeze.Use only Mack rated antifreeze or precharged semi truck stuff.The normal green stuff at walmart is not rated for diesel engines.You want something that is compatable with or precharged with DCA/SCA.You will also need to pick up some test strips(usually a couple bucks for a 5 pack) and a bottle or two of additive(make sure the antifreeze and additive are compatable cause some additives if mixed turn into a brown thick sludge).When you add the coolant check it and add extra additive as needed get the readings to the correct area.Also,Pick up several gallons of Distilled water cause you don't want to use tap water.It has all kinda heavy menerals and chemicals in it like Clorine,Calcium,etc etc etc and they will settle out or coat the coolant system making it not perform real good(ever look into someone radiator and see white crystals coating the metal?).Do it right Do it ONCE.

 

[FreightTrain]

oh,as for the jack.Don't bother with a 2000lb jack.Get a BIG bottle jack.You can get one for about 50 bucks.I tried a 5000Lb floor jack once on just one side of the front end and it blew every seal out without even unloading the tire sidewall.

 

[emmado22]

I got a nice 12,000# floorjack from Sears, and matching jackstands. Works great with the deuce. I also run Rotella 15-40 and flushed my cooling system, and got the rad boiled out. 20+ years of gunk came out. I used HD coolant, it had the DCA in it already. Dont forget to use distilled water...

 

[emr]

That is GREAT advise for all of us, I thought i was fine using the green stuff too, but will change out next season, good info well put, Thanks...oh i always talk about using distilled water, but havn't got to it yet, but i will with the good stuff, i also pulled and had my rads cleaned / boiled and tested when i got the trucks, seemed the best maintanence to start with,after all fluids, then i repacked all wheel bearings, Randy

 

[Jake0147]

Thanks all.

The oil (this time around) is going to be carted to work for the furnace. by the next time around I'll be able to filter it adequately for burning. At least an adequate filter, maybe better depending on what leads do or don't pan out.

I was unaware that Rotella was actually specified for these. Great info.

Mack rated coolant... I have some info here, I can work with that.

And the jack is currently based on the "bird in the hand" theory. I will be upgrading, just not today.

Thanks again.

 

[m35a2cowner]

Coolant

precharged with DCA/SCA.You will also need to pick up some test strips(usually a couple bucks for a 5 pack) and a bottle or two of additive???

Thanks