I had posted previously about the hole in the oil cooler cover. When I installed the new cover a 3rd stud twisted off. A small drip started between the oil cooler and cast iron filter/ cooler base. I went ahead and removed it to replace all the studs.( I had to remove the back 3 injector lines and fuel filter assembly to get this out. I was able to leave the lines connected the the filter assembly and just lower it oput of the way) After a 4th stud twisted off and an easy out broke off in the first I tried to remove I ordered a new base from Memphis. The bolts that hold this base to the block didn't have lock washers or any kind of sealent that I can see. They were barely more than hand tight. The slighest twist with a socket and they came out. Most of the bolts go into the oiled areas of the block, not blind holes. Should I use a thread locker/sealent? Also lock washers? What do most use as a sealent for paper gaskets? I've used Indian Head gasket shellac and also black Permatex. You can see in the pics that the bolts that hold the compressor base to the block also don't have lock washers. It was thought in the last post that improper PH had caused the aluminum cover to corrode thru. The base of the cooler itself is 1/4" plate steel and shows a lot of corrosion. Because it is so thick the corrosion doesn't affect it's integrity. It's dated 6/81, same as the engine... I recall a previous post about water getting in the oil and where could this happen. This would be a prime area as the oil and water both circulate thru this with only 2 paper gaskets and two O rings keeping them apart....A plug here for Memphis Equipment. I can tell their's is a true parts department, like I used to work in. They know their stuff and ship same day. They offer their own parts manuals for the LDS/T 465 and Deuce for $10 each, best money I ever spent.
Attachments
-
69.9 KB Views: 137
-
70 KB Views: 140
-
45.8 KB Views: 143
-
50.5 KB Views: 138
-
62.1 KB Views: 137