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Opinions on M1009 Purchase

79Vette

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I'm looking to purchase an M1009, but I am not sure what they are worth. There dont seem to be many for sale in the classifieds on this board or in my area, so its hard to get a sense of value. I have driven my dad's 77 K5 Jimmy on occasion and like the truck, but I would prefer a diesel as they seem to get better mileage. I also think I'd like driving an MV, and this seems like one of the cheaper ones to try and see how I really like it.

I'm looking for a truck in the Salt Lake area that I can go check out, but I'd be willing to go as far as 200-250 miles for the right one. I've got one I'm planning to look at soon, but it is at the upper limit of how far I want to drive. The seller claims runs/drives, has some relatively minor rust, and the upholstery is in bad shape. Also has a bad front hub and a bad flex plate. Pics at the end of the post.

I know about the normal Blazer rust spots (tail gate, floors, quarter panels) and general things to look at on older vehicles, but I dont know anything about diesel engines. Are there any things to look for, other than just listening to the engine and looking for smoke from the oil cap?

Any thoughts of what to offer, or if it is even worth going to see?

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fsearls92

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I would not even look at it, with a bad flex plate you are gonna have to pull the tranny. Then add $500 for upholstery, rust repair, and everything else that is wrong with it. Unless the price is really cheap I would keep looking
 

NovacaineFix

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Location
San Diego, California
Beware!!! once you buy OD green others will start appearing in your driveway soon after. It's like a drug.

Anyway, congrats if you already bought the truck, if not being a M1009 owner myself, I'll give you my 2¢ about them. But bare in mind, it is just my opinion, which is slightly biased being an owner of one.

They are worth what you feel comfortable paying for them. I know that doesn't help much in a way but it is true. You have to keep in mind that this is just like any other 30+year old truck. If it runs and drives, that is a bonus, but keep in mind that it will need work at some point. They typically go from a $1200 starting price on the auction sites to a average selling price pf around $3500, but depending on it's condition and where it is located. One will sell for $6K one week and another just like it will sell for $2500 the next. Private sellers I see asking for around $5000 but also depending on condition.

From the pics, I assume it is a private party sale, since it has tags. These are just like their civi brothers, assembled on the same line, just with slightly different equipment. 24V/12V electrical system, gun rack, push bar, sling hooks, heavy bumpers (heavier than civi stock ones), slave port and radio mount (that's the mount behind the passenger seat)

These can be very reliable if you maintain it, but they are not without their problems as well. I drive mine almost everyday at least 60 miles loaded and it has only had to be towed twice, once for a broken throttle cable and the other for a shorted battery that would not jump start.

The flexplate is an easy fix, but you have to have a good tranny jack to support the trans and T-case. There is a thread to do this without fully taking either out and can still be done safely using 6-7" bolts through the trans but I can't seem to find it at the moment. It's there, somewhere.
The interior is typical for something that sat or has been used quite extensively, it looks original, so I wouldn't expect it to be in great shape. Throw a cushion on the seat and a seat cover for the time being.
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------

Average mpg is about 16-18 mpg if everything is in good running condition, some report more than 20 mpg, but there are many factors in that.
If the previous owner has any repair history on it, that's great, look for modifications from the stock configuration, this will help in any diagnosis later.
Diesels are not much to be afraid of if you are not used to them. They are just a normal engine with pistons and rods just like a gasoline engine, the only real major difference is the fuel delivery system which acts like the distributor in a gasoline engine. The other difference, no carburetor, you can actually run this engine with no intake manifold, but I wouldn't suggest that.

Don't let the 24V/12V electrical system scare you, it's actually not that complicated, it just seems that way. IMO the 24V/12V system works very well, it can be converted to full 12V, but that in itself creates a new set of problems.

Don't expect much horsepower and torque from these engines as they were not designed for major towing or hauling. Now that I said that, someone will post a pic of their M1009 towing a 13,000 horse trailer, just watch. It was designed as a fuel saver just like it's big brother the 8.2 liter diesel you'll see in medium duty trucks. These trucks will do highways speeds fairly well, but will be gutless if trying to pass in the fast lane.

Rust and body work is pretty much the same as the civi versions, the lower rockers, quarter panels and floors seem to rust easily. Remember, none of these trucks or any vehicle from this era had galvanized sheet metal, so rust is always a factor to look for. The good thing, is that they have almost every replacement panel available in the aftermarket, LMC is a big supplier, there are others.

Being 30+ years old, the springs and the suspension are probably fairly worked, depending on how it was maintained and if anything was replaced over the years, same with the driveline. Steering is decent, better with a stabilizer, you'll hear the term "death wobble" being thrown around. Just check the suspension and steering for typical cracked rubber and worn parts, replace as needed.

The transmission should be a TH400, if not, it has been swapped, most likely with a TH350 which is good but not nearly as good as a TH400.

There is more, but I'm sure others will add their opinions to the thread.

Don't get me wrong, they are great trucks, but don't buy one if you think it's going to be turn key and forget.

Good Luck!! and keep us posted, BTW, this is a great source for help if you should need it.
 
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79Vette

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I would not even look at it, with a bad flex plate you are gonna have to pull the tranny. Then add $500 for upholstery, rust repair, and everything else that is wrong with it. Unless the price is really cheap I would keep looking
I do all my own work so the flex plate would be some cheap Saturday entertainment, as NovacaineFix suggests with some longer bellhousing bolts and a trans jack. I would have guessed more like 1k+ for the upholstery and rust repair though. What would you consider really cheap?


[COLOR=#EAEAEA said:
NovacaineFix[/COLOR]]
They are worth what you feel comfortable paying for them. I know that doesn't help much in a way but it is true. You have to keep in mind that this is just like any other 30+year old truck. If it runs and drives, that is a bonus, but keep in mind that it will need work at some point. They typically go from a $1200 starting price on the auction sites to a average selling price pf around $3500, but depending on it's condition and where it is located. One will sell for $6K one week and another just like it will sell for $2500 the next. Private sellers I see asking for around $5000 but also depending on condition.
Thanks for your detailed reply. About the diesel, are there any telltale signs of a failing injector pump? Apparently those are somewhat costly to repair.

I'm expecting to work on it and I'm expecting to put money into it. I daily drive a 37 year old Corvette with the original engine and drivetrain, 60-70 miles per day, so I understand doing preventative maintenance. I certainly dont expect anything turn-key. Mostly I dont want to buy the truck, sink a bunch of money into it and decide I dont like it, and have to sell at a loss. The seller is asking 2K, so if they really sell for 3-5k cleaned up it seems reasonable.
 

NovacaineFix

Member
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Location
San Diego, California
As far as I know if it has a failing IP (injection Pump), unless you have the calibration equipment, it is not worth the risk of trying to rebuild yourself. I'm sure that some others have, but I wouldn't even attempt it. There are some shops that you can send your IP to them and they can either rebuild yours or sell you a rebuilt one and use yours as a core. Don't quote me on this, but I think the ballpark range is about $600, rebuilt. You can find some on E-bay, but I would do some research and check reviews before jumping to that, same with any rebuild shop.

If you're lucky, you may find one in good shape in a local boneyard, but again, it would be a risk if you're not sure it runs.
They are rated at somewhere near 100,000 miles, but that depends on how it was maintained and such, as you know.

IP issues can be the same as a bad fuel pump and bad plugs and wires combined such as rough idle, running rich/lean, blue smoke, stalls at idle/load, noisy engine (knocking), no start/hard start. It's like a cold, the symptoms are the same for a lot of different things, just have to run down through the diagnosis and see what it is not.

Sinking money into old vehicles is always a losing investment, just the way it is, but as a daily driver you have to weigh out the costs of a much newer vehicle with a monthly payment and the cost to repair and maintain it. Parts for these trucks are pretty cheap and repairs can be done on the cheap as well, so depending on your tolerance for working on old trucks and how much you want to mess with it is something only you can decide. I don't think from the pictures it is a bad truck, but again, that is just from the pics.

I bought mine for a a good price and also sank a bunch of money in her, but she has treated me good, so I can't complain.

Before and pretty much today
Before After copy.jpg
 

2deuce

Well-known member
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Location
portland, oregon
If you can't test drive it, it should be considered a parts vehicle and sold as such. When you drive the 250 miles and it won't start and the seller says the flex plate is gone but it did start the last time I tried it. You know what has happened to you...
 
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Ordak

New member
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Location
Clarksburg, West Virginia
I will say after I bought my m1009 I was very excited, I love the way it runs and drives. It did need a bunch of work. Needed Transmission Pan, vac lines, vac modulator, power steering lines, transmission cooling lines, new headlights, etc. I still have a bunch of work left to before I call it complete but I love it. One thing I learned was you are going to have to put money into it because like others have said it is a 30+ year old vehicle. Although I do work on my m1009 nothing beats jumping in it and taking it down the road.

Just look out for rust and basically anything that does not look right or looks out of place. Check for obvious signs of fluid leakage, coolant in oil, hard start issues, worn springs, etc. Finding problems before you buy it can lower the purchase price and will save you aggravation later on when you find a major problem after buying it.
 

cucvrus

Well-known member
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Location
Jonestown Pennsylvania
You gotta buy one of trhese because you love it and you know it will need work. I never sit down and watch football so these CUCV's are my game toys. I don't waste time drinking and partying anymore. I work on vehicles. I build vehicles for a living and have most of my life. So if you buy this don't buy it for what it's worth. Buy it as a toy and fix it every week. Fix something every time it makes a strange sound and it looks different. In the end you will have a vehicle that has served you well and you can turn around and sell so someone else can have the same fun. I will be honest it will break , it will leak, it will not always start. But in the end you will have hours of fun and joy working on it and making it a labor of love. I have some of the same trucks I bought 20 years ago and some came back to me after the buyer scrapped or no longer wanted them. I always tell people that I sell the CUCV's to. If you get tired and want to sell it bring it back. Scrap prices fluctuate so I get better deals at different times. Believe me a car dealer turns and walks away when you pull onto the lot and want to trade one of these in. I had guys tell me the dealer said i will give you $1K if you just get it off my lot. CUCV's are not for everyone and I am glad of that.
 

MarcusOReallyus

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Virginia
I dont want to buy the truck, sink a bunch of money into it and decide I dont like it, and have to sell at a loss.

Well, if you decide you don't like it, that's a likely scenario. Depends how much you put into it, of course.



Sinking money into old vehicles is always a losing investment, just the way it is,

Yep.


It's an 84 Chevy with some minor military doo-dads and a cool factor. It's old, and judging by the different color on the front end, that one has probably been wrecked at some point.

If that's worth 2k to you, go for it. Just don't expect magic.
 
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