Painting/Priming WITHOUT prior sandblasting???

[maddawg308]

I want to get started on re-doing the inside of my 725, the interior is nicely painted (with latex house paint) on the good steel, the floor boards are unpainted and lightly rusted. I do not have the time/materials to sandblast. Has anyone else here done an okay job restoring metal with other means of metal prep, say, a drill and a wire brush? Or chemical means? My rig is not ever going to be a museum piece, just want it to look better than it does, prior to winter closing in and ended paint weather forever.

 

[westfolk]

I would stay away from chemical remover. Just my 2 cents. I did an M135 using chem about ten years ago. What a pain. I mean when it was all done it was fine. Just the trip to get there I didn't like. I completely stripped the cab, in/out. Ten years later or so and the paint job is still good. But I will not use chemical remover again. At least not on that scale. Glad I got a sandblaster.

 

[Towman2277]

I've used "less conventiinal methods" such as wire wheel and drill motor before, and the project turned out great. Just don't get impatient, and take the time to stop, back up and look at the area your working on, and keep it looking consistent and great, then paint will go on wonderfully. Just my !!

 

[badboyblasters]

I want to get started on re-doing the inside of my 725, the interior is nicely painted (with latex house paint) on the good steel, the floor boards are unpainted and lightly rusted. I do not have the time/materials to sandblast. Has anyone else here done an okay job restoring metal with other means of metal prep, say, a drill and a wire brush? Or chemical means? My rig is not ever going to be a museum piece, just want it to look better than it does, prior to winter closing in and ended paint weather forever.

Checkout our website www.badboyblasters.com

 

[rosco]

RE: Re: Painting/Priming WITHOUT prior sandblasting???

3M makes some abrasive wheels for drill motors that work very well. Much better the a wire wheel thing. The paint dosen't have to be completely removed to do a good job, if its tight to the metal. In the body shops the is some stuff called "Rust Converter", that when applied as directed, will act as a good primer.

Lee in Alaska

 

[vtdeucedriver]

RE: Re: Painting/Priming WITHOUT prior sandblasting???

boys I think the issue is Latex paint???? If your going to use enamel paint, I dont think the Latex will take to the enamel paint very well. Bare Min, buy a orbital sander and some sandpaper and try to sand out that latex or bare min, get the majority of the latex off.
Maybe try and paint a area and see what happens.

 

[roger-wilco-66]

I'm up to the same task and here's what I'm doing when I have to stop rust even on stressed surface like bare cabin floors: clean surface with a wire brush, then apply several coats (minimum 3) of Owatrol Oil ( http://www.owatrol.com/products/OwatrolOil2.pdf ), then the usual procedure of priming / sanding and applying paint. You even can mix it with acrylic paint.
I know the descriptions sound like it is some "marvel-wonder" type of stuff but I've been using Owatrol for years and am very pleased with it. I think it goes by the name of Penetrol in the US.


Cheers,
Mark

 

[mdlbldrmatt135]

3M products or a Twisted wire cup brush mounted in a Angle grinder do wonders on light rust and paint!!!

 

[pa.rich]

I've been using a small orbital sander with all different coarseness disks that you peel and stick on to the pad. It works well! Vacuum up all the dust . Prime. Paint.If there is bad pitting, you can put some body putty over them and sand it down like spackling. It is imposible to get in the corners, but you can get a corner orbital to do that if you dont want to hand sand them.Have fun. A good result is all in the preparation.I also have a small air powered sander with 2 and a half inch stick on disks. But they are expensive to replace. I can buy 50 of the 5" compared to the six 2" disk sets. However the 2" gets between things and in tight spots better.And yes , I agree with Vt duece driver, get that latex off, it will not be a good base for the oilbased enamel or primer. The adherence will be awful. It shouldnt be hard to get off with a power sander.Have fun.

 

[Blood_of_Tyrants]

First of all, latex paint will not seal the steel. Latex paint is meant for wood and other porous materials to allow them to breathe. Use a good oil based or acrylic enamel to properly seal the metal.

Second, you don't have to remove all the rust if you use a chemical converter like this rust converter, http://www.interstateproducts.com/rustkiller.htm

It neutralizes the rust and forms a primer coating in one application.

 

[bigmike]

My interior was pretty nasty "see first picture"
I used a $10.00 4 1/2" grinder from harborfreight along with several wire wheels and sanding discs. In the case of the floor, I stripped the 50 coats of paint down to metal. For alot of the other areas I used it to even out the chips, etc. I agree with others that you need some patience. I put my MP3 player under my earmuffs, put on my dust mask and safety glasses and went to town. I was so happy I did the extra work. The interior came out fantastic...see picture number 2.

 

[poppop]

I love the rust convertor and have used it for years. Wire brush the scale and loose stuff and apply a good application of rust convertor. It is a great primer and can be painted right over. If you want a smooth finish spray it on. I just did an antique tractor with a brush and you could see the brush strokes. It is very hard and it took a lot of sanding to get it smooth. Once I realized this I sprayed some parts and it worked out great.

 

[bigmike]

I also used "rust converter" instead of regular primer. I also have had great success.

 

[emr]

Ive heard POR.. and ive used it years ago, over rust for me is Rustoleum rusty metal primer industrial 1 gallon cans & top coat with rustoleum industrial flat black or something , and paint over that it will be bullet proof, ive had painted a trailer frame my sons 14 so 15 to 16 years ago, and pored other vehicles too, and rustoleumed others too, around then too, the rustoleum painted stuff is lasting longer, and does not care if there is alittle oily around its an oil base, so most other products will peal off later, ive found rustoleum, prettymuch stays put.in fact i just did the inside of my 900 bed with rusty as a undercaot its so much more resistant then anything else. Randy

 

[littlebob]

I haven't posted picks latley because of camera issues, but I know ther some on here when I was working on my cab for the Deuce. I had to use strpper to or more times to remove the red paint from a FD and It wa real pain. I used aircraft strirpper then scraped, then used aircraft stripper and scraped. When I had all of the excess off, I used a cupped brush on a 4-1/2 grinder before pressure washing and after allowing enogh time to dry, I used some stuff that I picked up at local paint supply store that is supposed to stop rust in concealed areas to stop future attacks.

littlebob

 

[derby]

I agree with the total removal of the latex.that "should "come off easy.have you thought about rhino liner for the floor?

 

[lavarok]

I'm up to the same task and here's what I'm doing when I have to stop rust even on stressed surface like bare cabin floors: clean surface with a wire brush, then apply several coats (minimum 3) of Owatrol Oil ( http://www.owatrol.com/products/OwatrolOil2_pi.pdf ), then the usual procedure of priming / sanding and applying paint. You even can mix it with acrylic paint.
I know the descriptions sound like it is some "marvel-wonder" type of stuff but I've been using Owatrol for years and am very pleased with it. I think it goes by the name of Penetrol in the US.


Cheers,
Mark

Does anyone else have experiences with Owatrol or Penetrol?

 

[a68cudas]

If that house paint is the acrylic latex type of paint its a pain to strip off of wood dont know how it adheres to metal but if its the same its going to be a pain to strip . Ive striped that stuff off of decks before and its no treat had to use sodium hydroxide to do strip then neutralize it after. Had to carry some vinegar also to neutralize the casutic affect if i got any on my hands etc.. What about using a heat gun and scraper?