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Personal heater for m35a2

Mullaney

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So according to frank8003 I should still move my other valve as well as the hose to the other location. Is that the consensus here? I'd rather not mess with it since heat now works and I bet twisting it off and on would be a b&*ch. But if I have to do it, I'll get it done.
Something else you may want to consider - IF you watch your gauges carefully:

Ever notice how diesel trucks "wear a blanket" in the winter? Generally a snap on device over some of the grille out front? Years ago I had a Chevrolet pickup that just never would get warm in the winter. Thermostat was good. Plenty of flow in the radiator. Ended up covering about half the radiator with a piece of cardboard in the winter and I was warm and toasty after that. Temp gauge never got above 180 and nice warm air came out of the defroster and heat vents....

You don't want to cook your motor, so watching the gauge and maybe even verifying what it reads with a cheap "point and shoot" thermometer would be smart. What worked for me might cause a really bad day for you - but it is worth a try.

Tim
.
 

frank8003

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post #9 in here
That PS magazine is correct. Has simply to do with higher and lower pressures/flows.
It is why I went thru all that trouble to change out the bottom valve in post 13.
 

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oboyjohn

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If any one is looking for serious heat for in your trucks, i have for sale a Eberspacher V7S diesel fired air heater. These are used to heat full length trailers in Europe so heating a crew cab deuce would be a piece of cake.


Another member here on SS was interested in buying it, but I have not heard from him in over 7 months, so I am offering it again for sale .

If interested, PM me for details.

Sold.
 
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Flint Westwood

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Something else you may want to consider - IF you watch your gauges carefully:

Ever notice how diesel trucks "wear a blanket" in the winter? Generally a snap on device over some of the grille out front? Years ago I had a Chevrolet pickup that just never would get warm in the winter. Thermostat was good. Plenty of flow in the radiator. Ended up covering about half the radiator with a piece of cardboard in the winter and I was warm and toasty after that. Temp gauge never got above 180 and nice warm air came out of the defroster and heat vents....

You don't want to cook your motor, so watching the gauge and maybe even verifying what it reads with a cheap "point and shoot" thermometer would be smart. What worked for me might cause a really bad day for you - but it is worth a try.

Tim
.
Here is a NOS example of the winter grill cover made for these trucks which is currently being sold on ebay. I found that the mounting loops included with the kit are not needed. The hood latches, spring hooks, and tight fit do most of the holding. The military even made a blanket that covers the hood as part of the arctic kit. Here in ND, winter covers and engine heaters should be standard equipment on all diesels. I don't hate myself enough to drive this when it gets really cold though.

20201031_185132[1].jpg
 

davidb56

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I think the inlet is the critical hose position as to Not bypass the thermostat. the return shouldn't matter. My engine warms up, heater blows warm and the return is in a different spot. my block heater is in the water pump housing as recommended by the supplier.
 

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Kellico

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If any one is looking for serious heat for in your trucks, i have for sale a Eberspacher V7S diesel fired air heater. These are used to heat full length trailers in Europe so heating a crew cab deuce would be a piece of cake.


Another member here on SS was interested in buying it, but I have not heard from him in over 7 months, so I am offering it again for sale .

If interested, PM me for details.
I'm interested if you still have it, how much are you asking for?

~Kelly
 

oboyjohn

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Hi Kelly, thanks for looking at my message to all members. Are you familiar with these heaters? They are great, and put out massive amounts of heat for those cold Maine winters. To further our conversation, please PM me.
Thanks!
 
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