picked up 4 mep-802a on trailers

[TOM R]

so went to buy one and ended up getting a deal on 4, all are on trailers with Humvee wheels all lights and brakes work on the trailers since i had to tow them home one at a time

they had been "evaluated" and had toe tags on the control board and are supposed to need something, they will all need batteries

2 have been thru level 2 rebuild at Letterkenny, one of these has 400 hours and the other was still sealed from rebuild 3 hours on the clock (i'm keeping that one lol)

other 2 have 3-4k hours

1)so far the "new" one needed oil there was none or not showing on stick, crack in overflow tank and lower hose was insanely dry rotted so needed that and antifreeze , plugged into slave on Humvee dead cranked some then primed and fired and runs beautiful ran wide open for an hour holds temp and oil pressures, shows output on gauge and i ran a drill on the 120v plug, unplugged slave and it stays running, battery gauge says 0 but multi meter said 29? volts (batteries are stone dead) I believe this has the full tool kit and ground rods too so good score

2)next one has 400 ish hours , replaced the injector hoses, checked fluids, replaced a few connector ends ,dead crank, then prime fired up on slave cable, ran wide open for an hour all seems fine except it wont run slave cable unhooked, i did see mention of the fu1 being for alternator in a thread here and I just checked its bad so ordered them, the 120 v receptacle does have output

3)next one has 4k hours +/- this one needed a few wires ends replaced and is missing the exhaust flap and that orange seal plate and spring that seals the exhaust to the cabinet, checked fluids, dead crank, then prime and fire runs on slave cable not off the cable , this one fuse was good, ran an hour wide open all is good has 120v output and for now I have a cap over the exhaust

4) this one needs the most , needs the overflow nipple soldered back on the rad neck, cracked overflow bottle and missing the cap for the bottle, missing the orange seal for exhaust to cabinet, replaced the 2 rubber injector lines , checked fluids , dead crank and prime and fired right up ran a few seconds then i had to shut off line between the fuel filter housings disintegrated and was pumping fuel everywhere, parts coming for that BUT engine ran no odd noises

so all 4 do run !!!!


I have attempted to repair the overflow bottles with gorrila glue super glue gel so far seems to have worked guess time will tell

is that exhaust to cabinet seal required?

where can I get an exhaust flap

 

[Ray70]

If your overflow bottle repair doesn't hold, a cheap solution is to buy the bottle for a Suzuki Samauri on ebay. Just have to alter the bottle overflow hose routing a little.
You can cut yourself a new gasket ( if desired ) from flat sheet Red SBR rubber or silicone sheet.
For the exhaust covers I have made a few of my own from stainless steel sheet. Not sure if you can find them for sale easily.

 

[TOM R]

If your overflow bottle repair doesn't hold, a cheap solution is to buy the bottle for a Suzuki Samauri on ebay. Just have to alter the bottle overflow hose routing a little.
You can cut yourself a new gasket ( if desired ) from flat sheet Red SBR rubber or silicone sheet.
For the exhaust covers I have made a few of my own from stainless steel sheet. Not sure if you can find them for sale easily.

Thanks, I can do the orange seal myself and the plate, I am missing one of the big springs

 

[TOM R]

 

[Light in the Dark]

I have a spring, plate, and gasket seal kit available, we can discuss that directly by private message. Do you need just a flap, or the exhaust flap and hinge?

I have the line (new) in stock for between the water seperator base and the canister fuel filter if you want one of those too.

 

[Light in the Dark]

Also the Samurai bottle idea works well, hats off to Ray on that one. I have used it many times with good success. You will need to plug off the bottom drain line as it does not have one (bolt and a hose clamp, tuck the tube up behind the bottle holder and forget about it), and you will want to run a step down adapter from the hose off the radiator as the inlet on the Samurai bottle is much smaller than the OEM hose. My local farm store here in town sells reducers of all sorts that work well for this.

I've used this product before on the overflow nipple: https://www.permatex.com/products/adhesives-and-sealants/epoxies/permatex-steel-weld-epoxy-25-ml/