Power door locks ???? Anybody done them?

[Jeep Nasty]

I was contemplating some type of power door locks with keyless entry when my crew cab 5 ton is done. I searched and could not find anything, so I was wonder if anyone has done this to a 5 ton style truck or has any ideas on how to go about it. I don't want to to manually lock 4 doors with a key every time I go somewhere, so some type of power lock setup would be great.
I can only seem to find plastic actuators to turn lock set ups into power locks. I'm envisioning something that looks like a door deadbolt that is powered
but can be installed in a car.

Any ideas or leads?

 

[RAYZER]

I think some small pneumatic cylinders mounted in the door like a deadbolt into the jam.

 

[Ddmk18]

You can use automotive style actuators and attach it to a house deadbolt without the key locking mechanism (or any type of steel bar that you can rig up to slide back and forth). Mount that inside the door clear of the window and regulator so when you hit the lock button or key fob (however you go about activating them) and it would slide the deadbolt from inside the door to the cab portion of the truck and keep it secure.

 

[Rusty Nut]

Fleabay: 24v open frame solenoid

 

[wreckerman893]

Devilman (haven't seen him on in a while) had a very pimped out deuce that may have had electric door locks. It had just about everything else. Someone may have a thread about that truck in their archives.

 

[5tonman1971]

Just a quick thought on this and it would actually be very easy.
Here's a quick supply list I came up with:
aftermarket remote/keyless control box or R/C transmitter and receiver 12v
relays
12-14 gauge wire
electric half or quarter turn high torque electric servos, on off servos (cheapest route would be a hobby shop like rc car stuff)
brackets (home made)
1x1/4 flat stock for locking bar
dremel tool to cut slots in door and cab

then with all this you can make brackets the fit inside the doors and hold the servos with torque arm to slide locking bar back and forth this should be the easy part

then make a control box to mount the receiver and the relay in this box to turn the servos on and off

then run your wires from the doors to the control box

now the tricky part will be finding the right transmitter, you may be able to use an after market automotive style keyless entry type transmitter and then you can get the crystal packs to put in your receiver to match the frequency that the transmitter is putting out. You may have to install a small battery for the receiver to be able to receive the signal to turn on the relay to power everything but that also can be bought from an R/C car store. If you are not familiar with R/C stuff you should be able to go to a hobby shop, a reputable shop that is, and tell them what you are doing and they will be able to help you with the correct parts that will be strong enough to last and move what you need moved. Using rc parts for wireless systems has always worked for me and now I may put this idea in to action myself.

If you ask me this is probably the coolest and easiest way to make your own keyless entry system. It may need tweaking here and there but this should be a good concept for you to build off of.

 

[tim292stro]

Why not just use 24V power door lock actuators? I found those (both 2-wire and 5-wire) on e-place for $10 a kit (one per door) doing a simple search for 24V Power Door Lock Actuator Truck (linked here). You can also find 24V code-hopping remote control kits for less than $50 there, another simple search term of 24V Rolling Code Remote Control. I'd stay away from the cheaper RC-hobby RF stuff, since it's not secure at all - might as well leave the keys attached to the outside handle... and in general I'd recommend that you avoid kludging a lock together. Think of it like encryption - if you are just doing it as a hobby, you probably don't know enough about encryption in general to think of all the holes you put in ("hard" for you is not necessarily "hard" for everyone).

I'd recommend staying away from electric deadbolt locks meant for buildings, unless you do something like an electric mortise lockset. These are normally 24VAC with a rectifier for commercial building access control, but you can do DC too direct - just pair it with one of the above linked search RF kits and your truck's batteries.

Electric deadbolts come in two flavors, fail safe (unpowered=unlocked), and fail secure (unpowered=locked). Obviously running fail safe, would mean that you need to power a 5Amp solenoid continuously so it would run your battery down (then it would unlock when the battery dies - so you can't go anywhere and your stuff is all gone). Running a fail-secure deadbolt would require you to power it to unlock - but that is a safety issue, since in a crash your power wires might get cut and you might get trapped in there (think roll-over or something).

Mortise locksets are ADA compliant (easy to operate), have "settings" which allow you to make the inside handle always operate the door for egress, or require you to manually use the inside knob to first unlock the door, then exit. The momentary solenoid (fail-safe) would allow you to connect the outside handle to the operator mechanism on "pulse", or you could use a key to manually override the lock. They also fit entirely inside the thickness of a door - I think this is exactly what you're imagining.

 

[5tonman1971]

You can have million dollar door locks with code encryption etc etc etc but my cheaper rf hobby stuff is just as safe. If you have a million dollar door locking system or a cheap door locking system neither is a match against a 2 pound rock or a well placed elbow to the 1/8 inch non-safety glass plate window.... Just sayin.

Locking your truck is for piece of mind and to keep the honest, honest. That goes for anything really but ecspecially with our trucks. Unless you have some fancy starting system like biff from back to the future it won't matter how good your locks are after they get through the window.

Just my 2 cents.

 

[Jeep Nasty]

Great ideas, I want to keep it simple cheap, (keep the good honest). I know a rock can defeat any window. And I'll have some hidden and locked battery cut off to deter the more committed.

i am concerned about a mechanical backup on at leat one door to get in if the batteries are dead.

 

[tim292stro]

That's why I recommend the Mortise sets, they are all purpose designed, and serviceable - you only have to think about how you're getting the lockset into the door. After all, it's a door lock .

I also think that was why the military settled on chains and padlocks.