Primer and WD CARC

[3dubs]

While I am not sure if I can even get WD CARC I have seen some people really know their paint. I live near salt water so rust is a real problem. So what is the best primer to prevent rust? I hear the WD CARC is easier to use. I am no paint pro so I think the WD would be easier. But I saw on another thread that the WD did not hold up as well to rust. Could the primer make up for it? My non-educated thought was a marine primer with WD CARC over it. But I would like to know what has or has not worked.

 

[wdbtchr]

My DTC 8606 forllift has WD CARC on it and rust pops up everywhere. Under the CARC is white paint, doesn't look like white lead but when it pops loose it rusts quickly. I'm no where near salt water.

 

[Nonotagain]

Mil-Dtl-64159 CARC (WD CARC water dispersible) does not have the corrosion resistance as a system as does the solvent based systems of Mil-C-46168 or the Mil-Dtl-53039.

The main problem lies in the primer used, either Mil-P-53022 or Mil-P-53030.

Mil-P-53022 is both lead and chromate free but contains corrosion inhibitors. Mil-P-53030 is also lead and chromate free but contains no corrosion inhibitors. While both primers are epoxy based, but corrosion inhabitation systems require a sacrificial anode to inhibit corrosion which these primers contain very little.

Mil-Dtl-64159 CARC type 2 polymeric flattening agents are coarser than the silica based pigments used in the type 1 coating. Combine the coarser topcoat pigment with a primer that contains no corrosion inhibitors and you have a recipe for premature paint system failure.

The only reason that I can see for using real CARC on one of our MV’s is the availability of a flat finish solvent resistant coating. The infrared reflectance means nothing to the hobbyist.

Any marine epoxy that contains chromates will out perform the two mil-spec primers which contain no chromates or lead.

 

[crazyfool]

i know this has nothing to do with your thread but how do i post a thread cant seem to get in thanks

 

[deuceman51]

If you need any CARC I have some on hand right now for sale.

 

[3dubs]

OK Nonotagain That was great but I am confussed. So you say use a marine primer with chromates (a paint shop will know what that is) and then use then use either CARC od WD CARC on top and all is good?

 

[3dubs]

deuceman51 what colors? How much would I need for a M1009?

 

[drgreg]

The 64159 sprays like a dream, zero overspray. It is a 2:1 mix so a 1 gal kit make 11/2 gals. If you are shooting over primer, 1 gal will be enough for a 1009.

 

[shannondeese]

I am a dealer for Carc paint from Hinson. I am a co owner of a company that paints military vehicles. If you need paint let me know how much and i will get you prices for it. It is usually around $100 a gallon but it is single stage with no thining required.

 

[Nonotagain]

OK Nonotagain That was great but I am confussed. So you say use a marine primer with chromates (a paint shop will know what that is) and then use then use either CARC od WD CARC on top and all is good?

Any good automotive paint store will know what ingredients are in the paints they sell. If in doubt, look at the MSDS sheet, which you should look at for the safe handling guidelines. You want an epoxy primer preferably containing chromates.

If they don't have a chromated epoxy primer, then look for a zinc dust epoxy primer. This will require you to add the dried zinc powder to the primer just before you apply it as it settles out very fast and will clump in the bottom of the cup.

As much as I dislike Chinese junk, the Harbor Freight gravity feed HVLP spray gun does a good job of applying the zinc rich coatings.

When applying the CARC topcoat, spray one slightly wet coat, wait until the water evaporates, then apply a second wet coat using 50% overlaps of the coating.

Provided that you apply a good primer, the CARC coating should out last you CUCV.