Proper way to wire Solargizer?

[maddawg308]

I have a solargizer on one of the deuces, never wired, just mounted to the left floorboard air vent cover (of all places) and not wired into the system. Not sure where I'm supposed to attached the wires, across both batteries, or only one? Help!

 

[gimpyrobb]

+ of one - of the other.

 

[ygmir]

yup,
hook it up just like the cables to the truck......24V.

My trucks sit a lot, so, I unhook neg. cable, so, the batteries don't drain down. These solargizers won't stop battery drain, they're not supposed to.

good luck

 

[HeadWizard]

I thought the Solargizers were supposed to keep the batteries charged?

 

[Jones]

Not sure what the amp output is but they're mostly used to de-sulfate batteries.
I don't know if it will hurt them to be mounted but not connected. In direct sunlight, without a battery on the output terminals, they'll put out a lot more than their 24 volt rating.
Bjorn, wanna chime in here?

 

[Angus1]

The one I was looking at puts out 10 watts, Is that to much to use as a tender? Edit: sorry I'm a dumb ass .29Amp

 

[WillWagner]

I have a set of installation instructions. I can copy them and submit them in the TM section if you like.

 

[ARMYMAN30YearsPlus]

I think the important feature is that the LED on the control box blinks in direct sunlight when hooked up. I have one on both of my big trucks and they are both working on sunny days. I find that they do not work nearly as well on overcast days even when other solar cells are putting out. I still haven't figured the minimum light required to make them work so I put them up high where they would get the best angle on sunlight.

 

[Green_gator]

Our local ANG unit has them on all of their vehicles. Good friend of mine is in the unit and says they work well. Wonder if they will leave them on when their deuces go up for sale? I am keeping some change in the bank for when they do hit GL. They have one that the put all new tires on one that is sitting there waiting to go and a couple of them have a hydraulic lift instead of a standard tail gate.

 

[gimpyrobb]

I have a set of installation instructions. I can copy them and submit them in the TM section if you like.

I would like that. I got one off a parts truck and it is different than the others I have. It says on the controller 12-24v. It also has what looks like a plug recepticle for ac? Maybe I should take pics.

 

[Cdub]

Hey Mike,

I use two solargizers with the four batteries on the five ton........

 

[70deuce]

In the mid-day Colorado sun mine puts out 53 volts attached to just the volt meter. They put out way less than 1 Amp. It keeps a set of two batteries on my 818 at 25.7 to 25.9 volts. I cut off the terminal ends and soldered alligator clips on so I could swap between battery banks. Not sure if you can hook these things across 4 batteries. This also allows for a quick disconnect and for me to hang the solar array anywhere on the truck that is getting the best sun. On the front I hang it on a mirror, if on the back I hang it in the center of the spare. Just takes a second to swap it to a different truck. Will post pics when I can get back to the truck.

Phil

 

[ygmir]

nope, they're not meant to charge.
Just de-sulfate. High frequency pulses help re-dissolve sulfer buildup off plates.

LED: some blink, some stay on solid when in full light. I have 8 hooked up to various batteries and banks. The LED seems to have a mind of its own............But, I check with a meter and they're working the same........The only ones I don't trust are the ones that the light doesn't come on at all, and even some of them are working, the LED just isn't.......

I'm doing some experiments now with trying to bring back a few basically "dead" batteries using Solargizers. I've been told given time and alternating charging then "Solargizing" them, they'll come back to a good serviceable state..........
We'll see..........

 

[houdel]

nope, they're not meant to charge. Just de-sulfate. High frequency pulses help re-dissolve sulfer buildup off plates.

Not exactly correct. True, they are not a "battery charger" per se, but if f you check the Solargizer web site, they are designed to desulphate AND float charge the batteries. True, they will not recharge a dead battery (at least not in any reasonable length of time) but they do provide a low level charging current and will keep a charged battery fully charged even if the battery is not used for an extended period of time.

 

[houdel]

The solargizer installation manual is in the TM section:
http://www.steelsoldiers.com/index.php?module=pagesetter&type=file&func=get&tid=1&fid=file&pid=299

 

[ygmir]

Hi Lee,

I went to the solargizer website, thanks.

I guess I had mis-read, or mis-understood.
I defer to your greater knowledge........

A solargizer will deliver a small charge, roughly equal to what a battery loses in normal static conditions, approximately 1% of it's charge.........so should allow the battery to maintain it's status, although they do state it won't "charge" a battery.

I wonder, though, if this info is valid for older models, like, the ones I got from a list member a year or so ago.......
or, is this info for the new models only?

Just curious,
thanks for straightening me out........
I stand corrected.

 

[ARMYMAN30YearsPlus]

Solarizer mount

Here"s how I put mine on the duece.

 

[cranetruck]

RE: Solarizer mount

This is a combination charger/de-sulfator, not solar power, though...
http://www.magnalabs.com/desulfate2.htm

"The solargizer is not a charger":
http://www.scsolar.com/Solargizer.html

Another bit of info from the wise and allknowing internet:

"Sulfation -- Even though Lead Sulphate is created in the materials of plates during normal discharging, this term is used to describe the generation of a different form (large crystals) of Lead Sulphate, which will not readily convert back to normal material when the battery is charged. Sulfation occurs when a battery is stored too long in a discharged condition, if it is never fully charged, or if electrolyte has become abnormally low due to excessive water loss from overcharging and/or evaporation. Often sulfation can be corrected by charging very slowly (at low current) at a higher than normal voltage, usually at about 2.4 to 2.5 volts per cell at 1/2 to 8 amps (depending on battery size). This will gradually remove the sulfation in many cases. This term is also often misused to explain almost any battery homicide."

This may explain why I have a set of batteries now going on 8 yeras without any de-sulfator hooked up, although one of the two batteries is showing signs of not taking a charge.

 

[houdel]

[quote="ygmir"I wonder, though, if this info is valid for older models, like, the ones I got from a list member a year or so ago....... or, is this info for the new models only?[/quote]

I first got interested in Solagizers many years ago, when they were still quite obscure. I vividly remember one of their pitches was that some Army or ANG base had several gazillion tanks parked neatly in rows in some sort of long term storage (this was well before Afghanistan & the current Iraq wars, maybe even before Desert Storm).

The problem the Army had was that by the time they needed to move some of these tanks they had sat for so long that the batteries were dead and would not start the tanks. The Army installed Solargizers on these tanks, problem solved.

So I'm guessing the combination pulse and float charge has been a feature of the Solargizer since Job #1.

Lee

 

[Hammer]

I know this is an older thread, but after looking at their site, wouldn't it be better to put two 12v solargizer's on? One for each battery?
It would still be cheaper then the single 24v setup, and probably provide better service to each battery.

Quote from their site...

**** While the split-wire versions are installation options, using one single-wire unit per 12-volt battery is still the most effective means of eliminating sulfation buildup and related problems.