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Question on turbos

ajsmith184

Member
191
0
16
Location
Howell, Mi
So I am just starting the collection phase to gather up the pieces to turbo my 6.2...

I am somewhat hesitant to get one off craigslist simply because I dont know what Im getting. How do you verify it is indeed working? Just spinning by hand? Is there an endplay measurement I should take? Any particular years/models to avoid or look for? Sorry if this has been answered, I tried a search and couldnt find anything.
 
Last edited:

Triple C

New member
546
3
0
Location
NAPOLEON MO
I assume you are getting a donor 6.5? You will need the intake manifold as the naturally aspirated manifold is different, the mounting brackets etc. The turbo should spin freely with no side play. Look at eh vanes and make sure there are no nicks or chips in them. Check to make sure there are no metal shavings or abrasions evident and look at the oil inlet and outlet to make sure it has been lubricating properly. If all that looks good it is worth taking to a turbo shop for a checkup. I am sure some of the guys that have done it will check in here and I am not an expert in 6.2's but if I recall, there are some casting differences in the blocks that you may want to keep in consideration when you are applying boost via turbo. Good luck.
 

albersondh

Member
78
3
8
Location
MI Detroit
The two critical measurements are turbine shaft axial and radial end play. Axial play indicates hydrodynamic layer provided for thrust on the turbine shaft. Radial play indicates hydrodynamic layer provided for the CHRA (center housing rotating assy) to turbine shaft. These are actually the two working bearings located within the CHRA, the journal radial bearings and the thrust bearing (both wear parts included in a rebuild kit). Push/pull (shaft straight ahead with the face of the compressor or turbine wheel facing you) on the turbine shaft to measure axial; and lift up/down to measure radial play. Generally the amount of radial you will feel should be much greater than the axial/thrust play. Manufacturers have different specs so if you are using a dial indicator to verify you will need the service limitations from the manufacture.

Check the inside of the turbine housing for wet oil (soot is fine) that looks to be coming from behind the face of the turbine wheel. If there is enough oil to form a drip and run then the turbine seal rings are shot or on there way out. Same check on the compressor housing. These seals are wear parts included in a rebuild kit.

Check all the compressor and turbine fins for cracked/bent/broken. If the turbine fins are suspect walk away. The turbine shaft typically exceeds the MEL (cost prohibitive XA code). However compressor wheels are a viable replacement part and easily sourced. Factor this into the final price.

Check the compressor and turbine housings for cracked/bent/broken. If your turbo is internally gated check very closely around the WG (waste gate) flapper valve. Turbine housings like to crack at the WG valve seat (thin area). Turbine housings are also typically in excess of the MEL (cost prohibitive to replace XA-code) but not always, best to compare the price if needed against a new turbo. Compressor and turbine housings typically only suffer if the journal bearings wear out and allow the compressor/turbine wheel to contact the housing.

On the CHRA check all the threaded holes. Sometimes the pressurized oil inlet is NPT and sometimes its a fitting with a flange and a couple bolts. The outlet is typically flanged with a couple bolt holes. Check out the tapped threads on both sides. CHRA is typically a XA part (not economical to replace, buy a new turbo).

If you can source a turbo that is component balanced (like a Holset) you can easily rebuild yourself. Rebuilding assy balanced is not much harder, just carefully match mark the dynamic assy. Not sure about the old GM turbo's but chances are kits are available and rebuilding yourself is a breeze. If you can build a motor you can certainly build a turbo and save a bunch of money.
 
481
10
18
Location
Charlotte, MI
Wet oil inside the turbo may have come through the donor vehicle's CDR valve, either from a bad valve or really worn engine. Mine had oily residuw around the front of the turbo but that's where it appeared to be coming from. My turbo has 200,000 miles on it but works great on my 32,000 mile 6.2 and no more oil residue is appearing.
 

albersondh

Member
78
3
8
Location
MI Detroit
^ yes. This is why I say to check for oil that looks to be coming from behind the face of the turbine wheel (same applies to compressor). Checking for cracks around the WG seat on the turbine housing can be tough without tearing it down and blasting the housing because of the soot and typical oil build up from CVR/CDR, ect. A lot of time crank case pressure is plumbed back into the compressor housing for vacuum under boost and this can look like leaky CHRA seals on the compressor side.... IMO its just too easy to rebuild a turbo to go through the hassle of an install only to find out the seals are bad or the WG seat is cracked.... My Holset kits typically run $50.
 
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