Radiant Floor Heat

Third From Texas

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Ahh... So, if a guy had unlimited funds he could have the best.
Otherwise, the electric version is the way to go until you find yourself a SugarMomma
It's at best, a $300 max option to me. I may just slap one of these down if anything. I'll have lots of diesel for the gen. And I doubt it takies long to heat up.

;)

 

Mullaney

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It's at best, a $300 max option to me. I may just slap one of these down if anything. I'll have lots of diesel for the gen. And I doubt it takies long to heat up.

;)

.
I didn't click the link before. The price is darn reasonable. I don't know how it is with you, but I can deal with a constant noise a lot better than "noise - no noise - noise - no noise" . So, if your generator is outside running continuously, it would almost become white noise.

Under Floor 110v Radiant Floor Heater - QuietWarmth @ HomeDespot.jpg

I know you know, but thinking about a generator and heating your habitat: CO2 Alarm. If you don't already, you need one in a bad way!
 

TechnoWeenie

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They do have diesel air/water heaters. The water side is designed for coolant, and room for expansion, but modifying it should be pretty easy and will give you almost instant heat. IF floor heating is on, you'll probably want air heat as well.
 

chucky

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Maybe hydronic slippers???? or a throw rug ! See the gears never quit turning or a throw rug/hallway rug with a heating pad taped to the bottom of it ! The hits just keep coming . Im frankly surprised yall dont start sending a retainer to my address just to hang around here and solve all the problems!!!!!
 

dxhend2

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OK, Step got back to me with..... a $1300 (shipping not included) quote for one 3' x10' section.

So it turns out that is NOT the brand I'll be going with.

LOL

View attachment 848275
Hey TFT, I've been looking into this also, but haven't gotten to the point of getting any quotes - thanks for sharing.
I took a close look at the quote, and I think they may have loaded it up with a lot of unnecessary "extras" that you probably don't need.
They included a $375 120 VAC-24 VDC power supply - I think you wanted to use your existing 24 VDC source and will not need that.
$192 for a non-programmable thermostat???
12 AWG wire at $0.97/ft???
And...a super-special crimping tool for $39?
So, throw out the AC power supply, and there's bound to be better pricing/sources for a thermostat and wiring - may get it to a more reasonable cost.
 

Third From Texas

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Hey TFT, I've been looking into this also, but haven't gotten to the point of getting any quotes - thanks for sharing.
I took a close look at the quote, and I think they may have loaded it up with a lot of unnecessary "extras" that you probably don't need.
They included a $375 120 VAC-24 VDC power supply - I think you wanted to use your existing 24 VDC source and will not need that.
$192 for a non-programmable thermostat???
12 AWG wire at $0.97/ft???
And...a super-special crimping tool for $39?
So, throw out the AC power supply, and there's bound to be better pricing/sources for a thermostat and wiring - may get it to a more reasonable cost.
Yeah, I know.

But it's still the same $40 item from Home Depot being sold for 10x that.

And it's not even being sold as surplus from <insert_point_of_compass_scalpers_here>
 

Third From Texas

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OK, so here's what I ended up with. Simple, inexpensive, and initial testing shows quite effective.

A single 7.5' x 1.5' mat runs down the center of the 12' box and while I intended to snag another mat for more coverage I don't think my floorplan will require it.


For the controller I chose the little SunTouch based on reviews and research.


Very easy setup to install (although my testing has been in the house for now). Two power wire, two wires to the mat, two wires to the included temp- sensor.

While teh mat is thin as a sheet of paper, the wiring isn't. I am going to consider a layer of the foam underlayment to allow for wires and sensor (even though they claim it's not required I don't see how you could get away w/o it given I'm laying down 4mm click flooring). The wiring looks to be almost 2mm.


But that leads me back to how to secure the flooring so it's not bouncing around and getting dislodged. I suppose I could glue the underlayment down then glue the flooring to that.
 

Mullaney

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OK, so here's what I ended up with. Simple, inexpensive, and initial testing shows quite effective.

A single 7.5' x 1.5' mat runs down the center of the 12' box and while I intended to snag another mat for more coverage I don't think my floorplan will require it.


For the controller I chose the little SunTouch based on reviews and research.


Very easy setup to install (although my testing has been in the house for now). Two power wire, two wires to the mat, two wires to the included temp- sensor.

While teh mat is thin as a sheet of paper, the wiring isn't. I am going to consider a layer of the foam underlayment to allow for wires and sensor (even though they claim it's not required I don't see how you could get away w/o it given I'm laying down 4mm click flooring). The wiring looks to be almost 2mm.


But that leads me back to how to secure the flooring so it's not bouncing around and getting dislodged. I suppose I could glue the underlayment down then glue the flooring to that.
.
Almost sounds like the heater pad part of the project is about as thick as a waterbed heater. Might even be thinner than a waterbed heater... Those have 4 holes in the 4 corners with 4 tiny wood screws. Naturally the water holds it down when the bed is filled, but something has to keep it in place to start with.

Might be worth consideration.
 

Third From Texas

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Yeah, same concept.

But I'm not worried about the heater shifting under the floor. I'm worried about the flooring planks bouncing loose while catching air on logging trails. I suspect that the flooring should be secured by more than gravity (hence my inquiries if builders glue their flooring down and to what extent).

When I had a box of flooring "clicked" together, I drove to the store and the flooring popped lose and slid around. Given enough time, it would have likely all come lose. Granted, the flooring sections that have walls. cabinets, etc on top to secure them, they won't be popping loose. But "click" flooring is designed to be used in a static environment with gravity holding it into place (not catching air going down a jeep trail).

I figure that it's better to glue the flooring down than risk it bouncing lose. But once I add a layer of underlayment padding, the flooring would still need to be (at least) glued to that layer. At least, in my thinking...
 
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