Rattle can paint advice

[hillbillygmc]

Hey fellas, I could use some of the wisdom that ya'll must have about painting. Before I start, let me just say that I did search the forum but couldn't find a thread that addressed this. I know ya'll must be pretty dang sick and tired of answering paint questions. I did search the threads and found out where to buy the paint, but not how to apply it.
I have never used a compressor and gun to lay down paint and i have no idea about mixtures or anyhting else involved with the proccess. Can't afford to hire anyone soooooo.....I figured I'd just rattle can it. I've done it to a truck before and it came out alright but I could never blend the paint well. Always left darker and lighter streaks that showed the direction I was painting. I guess I'm just wondering if anybody knows any tricks, tips or techniques on how to get a get 'r done with rattle cans. I bought the GCI paint.
Thanks guys, and if there is already a thread out there, just point me there.

 

[swbradley1]

Power wash it, sand the rough spots if you want then primer and spray it on. Just make sure you shake the cans well. I used about 24 cans of Rapco for my 813.

 

[glcaines]

I found that the RAPCO cans tend to drip paint, so I wrap a rag around the can just under the top to catch the drips from leaking nozzles. If you ever use the Gillespie paint in a sprayer, make sure you thin with Xylene. If you do, the paint from the rattle cans will be a perfect match.

 

[NJDEUCE]

I find that two coats is necessary for a nice even job. You can work your way around the truck twice.

 

[hillbillygmc]

Thanks fellas. Yeah, I figured it be pretty straight forward. Just didn't know if there was anything odd with the GCI that made it lay different than other rattle can paints. Hopefully it won't come out looking too crappy.

 

[bigginstactical]

A few medium to light coats are way better then one heavy. The paint will bond better if you use thin coats because it will flash over (dry) in between the layers therefore not trapping solvents. less chance of getting runs in it too! best of luck! Also post up some pics of it when you get it done!

 

[hillbillygmc]

Also post up some pics of it when you get it done!

Will do. Just have to finish some sheet metal work. I had to weld in a bit of new skin. Have one more to go on the end of the bed.....right behind the rear bumper.

 

[215Dave]

Another thing to add, technique. Yes, shake the cans really well. To avoid the "striping", overlap your passes 2/3rds. Meaning, watch the spray pattern ( the fan) as its coming out of the can on to the surface your painting. And as you make the next pass coming back, overlap the previous by about 2/3rds. And yes, light but even coverage rather than hosing it on. Should turn out good! Take pics and post them up!

 

[4x4 Forever]

For rattle cans, go by the paint store and pick up some finger clips. They clip onto the can and are alot easier than mashing the button down with your index finger.

Good Luck and pot your exploits!

 

[bigginstactical]

Also if it does look streaky you can move back about 12-15 inches and just dust the surface to level things out. Try a test panel if need be.

 

[hillbillygmc]

Really looking forward to trying it out. Been working on the truck for so long, it's exciting to get to the final step of the resto/build-up.....the dang paint. Body work is my achilles heel though. Hate it!!!!

 

[hillbillygmc]

Good Luck and pot your exploits!

Will do. I suppose I ought to start a thread showing what I've done so far. It's been a 6 yr long resto/build project. I thought I was done till I blew the motor last month. Figured it'd be a good time to do a frame off restoration...seeing that I had to take of the entire front body to get the motor out (it's lifted and all I have is a cherry picker).

 

[bigboy44]

Really looking forward to trying it out. Been working on the truck for so long, it's exciting to get to the final step of the resto/build-up.....the dang paint. Body work is my achilles heel though. Hate it!!!!

Ditto! I would take a woopin than paint!!!

 

[DHennon]

I used about 45 cans of Krylon Camo Green to paint ALL the Deuce. I sanded the rough spots, used a little Bondo on a few rust spots, Sanded and primed those areas, and wiped the areas I painted each session. I did buy a finger trigger from The Handy Hardware Place. I painted the entire truck, top and bottom side 2 years ago and still looks great. The best part of the rattle can is you can do a smaller are at a time and don't have to do the whole truck at once. Touch ups are a breeze and the Krylon still is a good match for those touch ups. Be sure to thoroughly shake up the cans and use a 2/3s overlap. I got the paint from Wally Mart when they carried the Camo colors. Price was reasonable.Good Luck!

 

[twlinks]

Ditto on all the advice so far. I rattle canned the primer before using my airless for the finish paint (Behr House Paint). On the primer it took 2-3 coats for a good uniform coverage and I would think that 3 coats minimum if you're doing "light" coats like you should be on the finish. I can't see any reason that you can't get a good/great look out of rattle cans IF you take your time and follow the can instructions on "recoat". Too many people (me included sometimes) get in a hurry and that usually leads to a disaster. Have fun and remember...

 

[bigginstactical]

I cant wait to get to the body work/paint part! Haha Im tired of fab work! Although paint and body work is what I do for a living so I should be able to fly through it once I do manage to get there! 45 cans of rattle can..... wouldnt it be better to buy a cheap gun and different paint and just spray it? Seems like a ton of work to me...

 

[Milsurp]

I also painted my M37 with rattle cans. Thanks, WalMart.

This is my M37 when I bought it. It didn't go, and it didn't stop. It needed a lot of work.







When I towed it home (just a few blocks from my house) I was extremely excited, but very disappointed that it wouldn't start. The Points kept slipping and just trying to get my paws down to the distributor was a chore in and of itself. So, I installed an Electronic Ignition. Best thing I ever did to it, including installing lock-out hubs in the front.

After getting it running, getting the brakes to work was next. Bled the lines and cleaned out the master cylinder, fresh brake fluid..Voila! It stopped.

Then I had to patch the gas tank.... small leak. (JB WELD is a lifesaver!)

Next came the flushing of the radiator.

Then replacing all fluids and installing new spark plugs.

Rebuilt the carburetor.

New fan belt.

Replaced the wiper hoses. Wipers work well now.

Removed the gearshift knob and drilled and tapped a piece of round metal stock about 12 inches in length and attached it to the original shifter. What a tremendous improvement. Shifting is soooooo much smoother and easier.

Greased every zerk fitting I could find.

The seller threw in two Pioneer Racks. (I didn't even know what they were) lol.

And finally, I spray painted it using WalMart spray paint. Hint: Use those plastic pistol-style triggers that snap onto the paint can. So much easier to paint with.

And this is how she looks today.





Side Note: Went to the muffler shop a few days ago. The exhaust pipe halfway between the exhaust manifold and the muffler finally gave out. So, new exhaust and muffler! She sounds great!

By the way, my odometer shows 44,726 miles.

I wish I could tell you how many cans of paint I used, but I just can't remember.

Good luck to you!

 

[gpp111]

I followed everyone's advice when I started painting my M818. Got a small wire brush and used it on all the surfaces with flaking paint and rust.. Then I pressured washed the entire truck (soaping it down first before using clean water). Then I primed all the bare metal areas and where there was remaining rust (Rustoleum self priming). Then started using the Rapco rattle cans (desert tan). I am about halfway done and am very pleased with the look and the results. Only thing is rattle cans do not work well on large flat surfaces such as the hood and roof. Paint tends to drip off the can. I also have a gallon of the Rapco paint and will roll the large top surfaces. The weather was also perfect, not too hot and with low humidity. Looking forward to a finished job.

 

[twlinks]

I followed everyone's advice when I started painting my M818. Got a small wire brush and used it on all the surfaces with flaking paint and rust.. Then I pressured washed the entire truck (soaping it down first before using clean water). Then I primed all the bare metal areas and where there was remaining rust (Rustoleum self priming). Then started using the Rapco rattle cans (desert tan). I am about halfway done and am very pleased with the look and the results. Only thing is rattle cans do not work well on large flat surfaces such as the hood and roof. Paint tends to drip off the can. I also have a gallon of the Rapco paint and will roll the large top surfaces. The weather was also perfect, not too hot and with low humidity. Looking forward to a finished job.

You've got it looking great, keep up the good work.

 

[hillbillygmc]

Just about ready to paint. I just finished the majority of the mechanical work and frame work. I just threw the body panels on yesterday....bed is still off. I have a few more things to do and I should be laying down paint next week. I still have to get one of those pistol grip things for the cans. Wally World didn't have any. I'll have to make the 1/2 trip to Home Depot.