re-installing tie rod...end turning

[bsorcs]

In re-installing the tie rod I find that when I get the nut on about three threads worth the rod end starts to spin. This happened on the driver side; only. The threads look ok, best I can tell. I'll haul it into the light later to verify. ['Shop" photo explains the light statement]

Am I missing something simple? Am I looking at replacement? I'm installing brake hoses and plumbing the lines for an alcohhol flush while I wait for replies...gotta keep moving forward.

bs

 

[73m819]

try taking a hammer and SET the tie rod on the tapered stud of the ball joint, also run a die on the stud and a tap in the nut, should run down to the tie rod fairly easy

just looked at the pic again, looks like the nut is CROSSED THREADED

 

[gringeltaube]

......doesn't look bad to me....

Pull TR back out of knuckle, clean & lube thread and work nut on and of while holding stud with vice-grips. Clean cone and eye surfaces from dirt and grease, re-install DRY (some chalk on both surfaces also helps), eventually also push upwards using a small jack. Install nut, lubed, and torque to specs.

Shouldn't be difficult...

G.

 

[bsorcs]

Ron/G,

In the light, turns outs to be the nut; right one ran up and down smoothly. Heading out to find either a replacement or a tap. This 6-hub overhaul is nickel and diming me to death!

b

 

[doghead]

Did you pound on the threaded end, to remove it?

 

[zout]

Hard decisions when it starts running into the little things that empty your wallet.

How much is your life worth not to do it right and correctly (not being a smart a**) just that if you are doing something so critical to your safety and others when you drive it - if you cannot do it right - it is best to sit it aside and get er done when you can.

In reality - it always takes 3 times longer having done something incorrectly and 1/2 a** - then tear it all down and do it right. Seems like a long time the first time to do it right - but not really.

Feel for ya - been there - just so you know it never happens to anyone else in the world - just you

 

[73m819]

"just looked at the pic again, looks like the nut is CROSSED THREADED "

looks like it is leaning to the rear

 

[deathrowdave]

The best way I have found to reseat the TR is to 1st. to clean the threads (nut and TR) reinstall and use a small bottle jack to seat the TR while tightening the nut. Have a great and safe day,Dave

 

[bsorcs]

Gentlemen,

Thanks to all. New castle nut did the trick. Using a jack to press the joint was slick. No idea how I messed up the nut. Got the steering arm loose banging on a 1-in socket slipped over the studs.

Frustration was from multiple trips to a couple of good suppliers...knuckle studs and plate bolts, brake plate nuts and washers, re-thread die for a plate stud...the list goes on. But, it's all good and coming together nicely. Once the bfs arrives and get into the brake lines we'll see how the brakes do, and if the Dana 44 shim works out in one of the rears. This has been interesting

Thanks again for the support.

bs

 

[gimpyrobb]

Can I ask what the Dana44 shim fixes?

 

[bsorcs]

During the last 200 or so miles of recovery [Huntsville-Tucson] the rearmost hubs were warmer than the rest, so I spent a fair amount of time going through the hot-hubs-related threads. Consensus of those who tried shims said it solved their problem. Mine were not hand-burning hot, but clearly warmer, so I decided to try shims. At an axle/transmission shop I picked up a 0.040" shim that has the inner diameter needed [62.5 mm], but has an outer diameter smaller than others have used. I installed it as a test. Gringeltaube pointed out that it sounded like a shim from a Dana 44. The guy who gave it to me confirmed this.

bs