Rear Main Seal

[1956_4x4]

Looks like I have a leaking rear main seal on my 6.2 . I know this was a big problem with these engines when they first came out. Have there been any improvements in the seals or new replacement process that I should be aware of prior to starting the repair? This is one of those jobs that I would only want to do once.

I changed the oil prior to the start-up and I'm not too sure how long the vehicle sat prior to operation. Just have a feeling the seal dried out while sitting, since there is no sign of an oil leak in the past.

Smitty

 

[Dieselsmoke]

Piece of cake. The original seal was a rope seal. When I did mine there was about 3/4" left. It's common for them to disappear, nowhere to be found. The new ones are a 2 piece neoprene, cost me about $12. No leaks since.

 

[1956_4x4]

Piece of cake. The original seal was a rope seal. When I did mine there was about 3/4" left. It's common for them to disappear, nowhere to be found. The new ones are a 2 piece neoprene, cost me about $12. No leaks since.

Will I need to drop the crank to install the new seal or can it be worked into place?

Smitty

 

[Dieselsmoke]

No need to drop the crank at all, it will slide right around into place. You will have to drop the rear main cap and retorque it but that's no biggie after making it that far.

 

[1956_4x4]

Thanks, that's what I was hoping to hear!

Smitty

 

[2deuce]

The rear main is leaking badly in my M1009. What do you retorque those rear cap bolts to? Does the oil pickup get removed or can you work around it? I forgot what it looks like in there. I've got to do this before the rain starts.
Thanks,
Greg

 

[2deuce]

Well, I pulled the bearing cap and there was no seal in it, but there is a seal up in the block and so far I haven't been able to remove it. Has anyone just replaced the bottom bearing cap half with success as far as leakage is concerned? I'm afraid I might have to try that.

Thanks

 

[avengeusa]

change the seal dude.....

the upper seal can be pushed from either side, it will rotate and come out

sometimes they get sticky, use something PLASTIC to push it out/around the crank journal....

if you gouge the crank, you will have a leak that requires a crank removal to fix

very easy

do it

 

[avengeusa]

ps

if you need any help you can feel free to call me, or i will on my dime

734-682-5107
tim

 

[2deuce]

Thanks for the response Tim, but short of removing the crank it doesn't appear I can get it out. I used some plastic cord, the heaviest cord used on weedeaters,and pushing with a pliers as hard as I can, it won't budge. Tomorrow I'll look at trying to pound a short piece of cord with a hammer but I doubt I can get a swing in there without damage. If part of it was already gone, I might have had some luck, but about 95% of it is still in there. All of it was gone from the cap. I thought of turning the engine over by hand and pushing at the same time but that would require a helper. Its definately not comming out easy. I also thought of loosening the rest of the bearing caps to let the crank come down a bit, but think that trying just a half on the cap sounds better and was wondering if anyone else did that.

Thanks again,
Greg