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redoing M37 brakes

joelroll

New member
18
1
0
Location
Taylorsville/UT
I am going thru the braking system on my '62 M37 and just wanted some pointers. I am replacing the master cylinder, wheel cylinders, and plan on having the drums turned. the shoes look old, but a good thickness. have any of you had problems with the old shoes or old brake lines? should I give them a try or just replace them? any other pointers with brakes would be appreciated. thanks for your help!
 

rosco

Active member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
2,102
30
38
Location
Delta Junction, Alaska
If there is visiable contamination in the system, I would replace the lines, or at least blow them out, to make sure they are clean. Also there can be external problems with the lines, like rust due to mud/debris packed around the lines along the frame rails. Track the lines, and make sure they are all right.

While I was doing the job, I would also look at the front end ball joints. There are some bronze axle bearings and seals on the inside/differential side that can wear and leak. Its a long way into them, and that would be the time to check them. Also the trunion bearings and the felt seals for the ball joints. " Vintage Power Wagon", has all that stuff. There are no doubt other Venders too.

My lining has never been replaced. I re-used the shoes. They (M37) are not famous for stopping real fast in the first place, especially loaded, with a trailer. Maybe a softer lining would work better. You might check with a brake shop, but you will need to have somebody that knows what they are talking about, otherwise, I would just re-use the old shoes/lining, if they are not contaminated with lube or brake fluid.

Also, check the clutch/brake pivot pin & its bushings while you have that master cylinder out. That mud/splash shield on the rear of the left fender comes out, to give you more room there.

Good Luck

Lee in Alaska
 

rosco

Active member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
2,102
30
38
Location
Delta Junction, Alaska
BTW... Those wheel cylinders are "Right" & "left" sides because the front & rear pistons are different sizes, so its best not to swap them, or you never will get her stopped.

Lee in Alaska
 

vtdeucedriver

Well-known member
2,523
38
48
Location
Vermont
Everything that rosco said is right. If you are going that far, check your lines. The armor spring really likes to hold mud. There is also the location where the line runs through a hole in the frame crossmember that likes to collect dirt there too. It will be by your right rear shock mount bracket. Look over your rubber lines really well for dry rot.

Now that being said. You are replacing your master and wheel cylinders???? Are they US made or off shore????? I would rather rebuild a set of Lockeeds then invest in the offshore junk.

If your not using them, I might buy them off you so I can:-D.

There are alot of deuce guys on here, you need to come join us on the
WWW.g741.org
come say hi, were all M37 owners.

Good lookin 37 by the way.
 

vtdeucedriver

Well-known member
2,523
38
48
Location
Vermont
Went through your blog site.......................yea, check them really carefully!!!!!! If you have any doubt, get rid of them. I got my pre bent kit from George baxter at Army Jeep parts and I was very happy. I am sure that your rubber ones are not much better. AB linn has been selling the complete set on ebay lately. You can get the copper crush gaskets from napa. You will need 8 of them, I dont know the P/N off my head, but the guys on the 741 site will have it.

I cant say enough, dont cheap out on the brakes for the M37, they were not that great when they are new, once you throw all those new parts on like a master cylinder and wheel cylinders, I would hate to see you blow a rotted line.

Your pics reminded me of one negative about the M37B1..................UNDERCOATING!


Did you get the truck when you bought the house and land that it sits on??????? Wish i got that deal with mine.
 

Greensteel37

Member
117
8
18
Location
Odenville, Al
I have been working on my brakes for a few weeks (months if you ask my wife) and I'm replaceing everything. I had leakage at the cylinders so bad the brake lining material peeled off the shoes. All new lines, new master cylinder and DOT 5 Military silicone brake fluid.

I want it to stop when I stomp the pedal!
 

joelroll

New member
18
1
0
Location
Taylorsville/UT
Went through your blog site.......................yea, check them really carefully!!!!!! If you have any doubt, get rid of them. I got my pre bent kit from George baxter at Army Jeep parts and I was very happy. I am sure that your rubber ones are not much better. AB linn has been selling the complete set on ebay lately. You can get the copper crush gaskets from napa. You will need 8 of them, I dont know the P/N off my head, but the guys on the 741 site will have it.

I cant say enough, dont cheap out on the brakes for the M37, they were not that great when they are new, once you throw all those new parts on like a master cylinder and wheel cylinders, I would hate to see you blow a rotted line.

Your pics reminded me of one negative about the M37B1..................UNDERCOATING!


Did you get the truck when you bought the house and land that it sits on??????? Wish i got that deal with mine.


Yeah. We came to look at the house and the realtor showed us the back yard and I saw it. I didn't know what it was and just had to have it. it took some convincing of my wife, but I eventually got the ok. I ended up buying it a couple of weeks before we closed on the house. he left it in the back yard when he moved out.

thanks for all the help! :grin:

p.s. what problems have you delt with due to the undercoating?
 

Greensteel37

Member
117
8
18
Location
Odenville, Al
Only if the calipers are not pitted or scored. I wound up replacing mine instead of rebuilding due to this. They will leak if there is any pitting.

I threw out my master cylinder for this also. No amount of honing would get the pits out.
 
Last edited:

zak

Member
610
-4
18
Location
Ortonville, Mi
Remember these brakes are NOT self adjusting. If you do a lot of driving, you will have to adjust them on a regular basis. Remember your stopping a heavy vehicle on 1940's designed brakes that were marginal for a loaded truck. Be safe and do regular pm's.
 

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