Regular maintenance M1009

[jdes9924]

I am new to the forum, and new to CUCV's

I just purchased an M1009!

The purpose of this thread is to list all things considered for maintenance on a newly acquired vehicle.

obvious things such as:

Air filter
Radiator flush
trans flush
glow plugs
fuel filter
fuel system treatment
wiper blades
brakes
tires

and not so obvious things like:

what additive goes int he front and rear diff.?
starter relay woes (link to writeup)


and any other best practices?

If the thread has lots of useful info It can be put in the FAQ but also Ide like to write up a quick PDF for first time owners to be able to download, sort of like a checklist! (that and I would like to do all this to my truck this week!)

 

[HardCorps79]

First off let me be the first to say:



Congrats and welcome!

Nearly all the information you need will be found in the TMs. Go to the main forum page, at the bottom is the WIKI. Go to the section for CUCVs and you can download them as .pdf files. The Lube Order covers your basic maintenance.

-Air filter is you standard FRAM for a 1986 K5/K30. Or you can dish out the bucks for a K&N

-Radiator flush is covered in a technical bulletin referenced in the -20 manual, IIRC. You can go to tpubs.com and search for the bulletin. Basically it will be a standard flush/fill. Or you can just drain and fill if you don't have a lot of rust/corrosion issues. Use a 60/40 (or 70/30) blend of typical anti-freeze and water

-Careful with the trans flush- depending on the mileage you could end up with slip. You may be better off with just a drain/fill. Trans is Dexron II/III and equivalent

-Glow plugs are Wellman 070, or AC60G (about $10 each online)

-Stock Fuel filter is FIL3136 from Napa (about $25)

-For fuel system treatment I do pretty well running Diesel Kleen/Power Service every few tanks just to keep the injectors, etc. clean. Some guys swear by Howe's.

-Wiper Blades are ANCO 16's

-Brake fluid should be DOT5, but you'll have to check for sure. Some of these have DOT3. Don't mix them. Do a search for this topic and you'll learn a lot.

-Stock tires are a Goodyear Wrangler AT 31x10.50-15 for the M1009.

-You don't really need any additive in the front diff. If you choose to add, just GM.

-Starter relay: AC40 from NAPA (do a search of this forum to learn all you could want to know and more)

Check your fluids regularly: trans, oil, coolant. Check for leaks (esp. fuel from Injector Pump). Keep your tires at 40psi (it may be stencilled on your fenders!). Replace your belts and all of your fuses, vacuum lines, and bulbs.

Read all of the TMs religiously. These vehicles are easy to work on, reliable is maintained, and great to learn about automotive repair/maintenance. Several issues tend to pop up over and over on here , so you may want to read up on:
-Starter/Starter relay
-Glow Plug relay and modulator (controller/control card)
-Alternators/Batteries/Charging System
-Lights/fuses
-Injector Pump issues, leaks, etc.
-Transmission
-Axle changes

Again, welcome & good luck!

 

[doghead]

There are both a FAQ thread and a wiki for the CUCV. Look in the CUCV forum, at the top.

 

[319]

FYI, I just put 18" wiper blades on mine, works much better than th 16's.

 

[jdes9924]

Thanks Hardcorps, that info is great for on the fly, when I pick her up on thursday ill get some pics up, its only got 55k on it so it shouldnt be too far along, I read the CDR valve should be changed every 50k so ill prolly pop a new one on as well

Thanks for the welcome, I already have the TM for HOW to do things, very very in depth and helpful!

thanks guys! just wanted to make sure I had all my bases covered!

 

[Warthog]

Something to add to the list. I just discovered this by working on a freinds 1009.

Check your motor mounts. The passenger mount is known to wearout and allows the engine to drop. Do a search on lift pump.

When the engine drops, the rubber hose of the fuel pump (lift pump) will hit the cross member and will wear a hole in it, allowing air to be sucked into the system.

It is a real PITA to remove and replace. The only way I was able to get it done was to remove the fuel pump. Easy to see but not easy to get too. Only took me 4 hours to replace a $1.50 hose. This time included bleeding the system, injectors and recharging the batteries twice.

Warthog

 

[Wolf.Dose]

You are a specialist.
According to the engine manual, the fuel pump can be replaced only when the engine is out.
This is not true! I also replaced the fuel pump once with the engine in the truck.
However, I never had a problem with the engine mounts.
To our experiance over here the pre glow system collapses after about/arround 120000 miles. So we got used to replace the pre glow junk and fit an industrial shwich useing the seat belt buzzer as a timer (6 seconds without electronics to the much, 5 seconds is on the safe side). It works if you pay attention! Else you replace 8 cracked glow plugs. Not a nice job, if they blew up and do not fit through the hole any more!
Wolf from Germany

 

[84cucv1ton]

he just left my driveway. on his way home now.

 

[jdes9924]

For those pic hungry heres some pictures to feed your need!

 

[HardCorps79]

That paint job reminds me of Starsky & Hutch's Gran Torino!

 

[jdes9924]

Yes well.... *sigh* ive been getting alot of comments about that, Ill prolly keep it red though because the inside is red, and I think it looks cool. plus! theres enough green M1009's a red one will be nifty.