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Removing the brake drum - need to pull the grease cap????

MarcusOReallyus

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Yes, I searched, and yes, I read the TM. :mrgreen:


I'm trying to inspect my brakes prior to taking it in for a state safety inspection. Just want to make sure I'm good BEFORE I go, rather than failing and making corrections after the fact.

I'm looking at TM9-2330-202-14&P.pdf Section VIII.WHEELS, HUBS, AND BRAKEDRUMS MAINTENANCE, 4-43.HUB, BRAKEDRUM, AND WHEEL BEARINGS MAINTENANCE (M101A2, M101A3, M116A2, M116A2E1, AND M116A3)., pages 4-83 to 4-85.

REMOVAL
  • 1.Support vehicle with suitable jackstands at front and rear corners on side being maintained.
  • 2.Remove grease cap (1) from hub (2).
  • 3.Remove cotter pin (3) from spindle (4). Discard cotter pin.
  • NOTE: Configurations may vary. If trailer has key washers, do step 4. If trailer is equipped with retainers and washers, do step 5.
  • 4.Remove nut (5), key washer (6), and outer bearing (7) from spindle (4).
  • 5.Remove retainer (8), nut (9), washer (10), and outer bearing (7) from spindle (4).
  • 6.Remove hub (2) and brakedrum (11), as an assembly, from spindle (4).



At this point, I just want to take off the brake drum to look things over. This isn't exactly the first time I've looked at a vehicle's brakes, so I know drums sometimes need a bit of persuasion. But this thing is being remarkably stubborn, so I read the TM to see if I was missing something.

But if I'm reading this right, I must pull the grease cap, etc., as described above?



Just want to make sure, because that drum does NOT want to come off. I've removed the wheels and taken out the two screws that hold the brake drum on, but it's not budging. I've whacked it a few times, but no joy, and yes, my parking brake is released!

Any suggestions?
 

ryan77

Well-known member
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Cary IL
Like Porky said back off the adjuster! When the drum gets worn you get a lip and its a pain to pull of because the shoe catches on it. You have to beat the heck out of ot to get them off!
 

harleyhouse

Well-known member
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Oakmont, Pennsylvania
On a 101A2 there are two phillips head countersunk screws to remove before taking the drum off.
Once those are backed out the drum pulls of easy. No need to remove the hub.
 

MarcusOReallyus

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Yes, I got the two Philips head screws. (Who thought those were a good idea? :cookoo:)



Ah, the lip! That's probably my problem. Time for some elbow grease!


Thanks, gents! :beer:
 

John Galt

Member
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Location
Fort Worth, TX
I think you are better off leaving the drum on the hub and removing the hub/drum assembly.

On my trailer, those two Phillips head screws were very difficult to get out, even with the hub off the trailer and laying flat on the ground. Once I got the screws out, it felt like the drum was press fit onto the hub and took a lot of beating to separate the two parts.
 

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