Replace or Rebuild M1028 axle?

[Nuke113]

Ok so still haven't opened it yet but yesterday my rear axle decided to start shooting gasses out of the pinion assembly seal and clunking while on my way home, after a flat bed ride home it refused to move until I pulled the axle shafts and towed it out of the driveway. So assuming that most likely I would be needing a carrier and gear set I'm looking at 1300 dollars to get it rebuilt or I could put in a take out axle for 500, my question is would I be better rebuilding this one so I know what I have or is this a rare thing to have happen and a take out would most likely be ok? As a side question any tips on what to look for on a used axle to determine if all is well inside the pumpkin?

Thanks,

Thomas

 

[73m819]

Drain the oil, see what comes out with it.

 

[NDT]

Option C How about a brand new axle hub to hub from fleabay for $850. I would not mess with rebuilding one that has seized.

 

[Recovry4x4]

I would think ring and pinion along with all bearings minimum. At some point was probably run close to dry, they are usually pretty stout. With new and takeouts available, I would opt to swap it but retain the original for inspection, parts or future rebuild. If you had ever planned on a re-gear, the time is now.

 

[doghead]

Without pulling the cover, only Carnac can answer this for sure.

How long ago did you check the oil level? Has it been leaking?

 

[jsgmdiesel]

Its a 14 bolt with a Detroit locker, used in all 73-87 1 ton non duallys and all 3/4tons 73-80 and heavy duty 3/4tons 81-87. Parts are plentiful, I would take it apart and rebuild it or send it to a shop that can. Be careful when ordering parts, remember cheaper means china, china means crap. Try Randys Ring & Pinion, Yukon Gear, or Summit Racing for parts. The reason I recommend rebuilding is the mounting pads for the leaf springs are closer together on a 1 ton, on a 3/4ton they are farther apart same as a 1/2ton dana 44 or 10 bolt. That is why if a guy wants a full floating axle in his M1009 he needs one from a 3/4ton pickup or suburban.

 

[11Echo]

What "NDT" said above.

Complete new/unused axles CUCV axles here.
http://www.samwinermotors.com/DriveTrain.html

 

[pmramsey]

I have not checked recently but Coleman's Surplus at one time sold new in the crate axles for these trucks for under a $1000.

 

[Blazer8750]

What "NDT" said above.

Complete new/unused axles CUCV axles here.
http://www.samwinermotors.com/DriveTrain.html

tried to PM you and your inbox is full

 

[rnd-motorsports]

Not that you do not know ( you would be surprised how many don't ) make sure if you get a replacement make sure the gears are the same as what came out stock should be 4:56 unless somebody changed it at some point just be sure to check! will not be good if has been changed at some point. Just to save some problems down the road.

 

[Nuke113]

Thanks for all the replies and directions for surplus axles not sure if I am just a bad searcher or what but I wasn't finding many, still haven't broken the axle open yet had to work this weekend so hopefully I can get to it tomorrow. The axle had fluid though it's age is unknown to me the new fluid/gasket has been sitting on the shelf the past 2 weeks waiting to get changed oddly enough.

 

[overlordofmars]

If its just bearings and you did not bust up the ring and pinion I would just re bearing the bugger and put new seals in it. I have rebuilt over a dozen 1 ton Chevy rears over the years, its easy and not too bad of a job if you have the tools. Shimming and setting things up can be fun, but easy. If you do rebuild it, do not forget locker rears have an additive in the oil. Do not forget to put it in. I have re installed bearings in a semi hurt rear and had it back on the road six hours later.


Swapping a rear, lets see, four U bolts, and remove both backing plates with brakes intact removing liquid brake lines etc, can be the same amount of time. If your good shopper you can get a rear from a salvage yard for about $250 from an 80s 2500 or 3500 truck. Last time I needed one I found a parts truck on Craigslist for $750. I stripped the truck and scrapped the leftovers and got $550 for an empty shell with a bad engine and nothing else. So basically I ended up with a lot of 80s GMC truck parts and a rear for $200 . That included a transmission, rear, two doors, the whole dash with everything, good seats, one front fender and hood and grille plus both rears. That might be an option you might look into !

 

[Skinny]

The reason I recommend rebuilding is the mounting pads for the leaf springs are closer together on a 1 ton, on a 3/4ton they are farther apart same as a 1/2ton dana 44 or 10 bolt. That is why if a guy wants a full floating axle in his M1009 he needs one from a 3/4ton pickup or suburban.

Are you positive on this? I could have swore that all straight axle rigs regardless of GVW (excluding those 88-91 IFS rigs) have interchangeable axles with the same spring perch dimensions.

 

[Recovry4x4]

The reason I recommend rebuilding is the mounting pads for the leaf springs are closer together on a 1 ton, on a 3/4ton they are farther apart same as a 1/2ton dana 44 or 10 bolt.

Are you positive on this? I could have swore that all straight axle rigs regardless of GVW (excluding those 88-91 IFS rigs) have interchangeable axles with the same spring perch dimensions.

This is true. The only exception is the 3/4 ton bonus or crew cab. These have the 40" on center spring perches shared with the 1 ton. The 3/4 ton and burb axles are 42.5" on center (roughly). Shock mounts are different as well.

 

[WARWAG]

I wouldn't buy S.H.I.T. from YUKON / Randy's Ring and Pinion (same crappy company). They DO NOT STAND BEHIND THERE PRODUCTS. And if they made brakes they wouldn't stand in front of there products either. You can find Corporate 14 bolts all day long at ANY junk yard. Finding one will be difficult with the 4.56 gears. I would suggest rebuilding a NON destroyed unit. Sounds like it went dry at some point. These are pretty stout axles stock.

 

[Nuke113]

Finally got today off and it was nice out so pulled the cover/pinion carrier and it had indeed run dry and shelled the inner pinion bearing, so the failure falls on me not the axle this time. On the plus side the more reading I've done the task of putting new bearing in doesn't seem all that bad at all and the gears look ok still so got a batch of bearings on the way, shall post pictures as I go about fixing it back. I love the fact that anything you want to do on these trucks has already been done/documented is really nice.

 

[overlordofmars]

You lucked out there, I know They sell a full bearing kit for those axles. You can get every bearing and shims pre packaged in a box ready to install.

 

[Nuke113]

Ok so got her put back together today and to my amazement and as testament to how simple/tough these trucks are it seems to drive quite nicely. On a darker side note the rear end being dry prompted a immediate check of all other gear fluids which were found to also be dry contrary to what the previous owner had stated, that being said I know it was my fault for being slow about checking/changing them but I hope that maybe someone will benefit from this and find one of their axles dry before it breaks. Seriously though these trucks drive so much better with fluid than without lol hope the T-case and the front are ok I'll drop the fluid in a 100 miles or so and see how it looks.

Here are the part numbers for the pinion stuff if anyone needs it:
Inner Race : HM803110
Inner Bearing :HM803149
Outer Race :M802011
Outer Bearing :M802048
Straddle Bearing :R1581TV
Pinion Seal :2286

The pinion nut and crush sleeve I got at the rebuild shop, everything listed is a Timken Part #

 

[NDT]

Your truck came from Ft Hood!

 

[Nuke113]

Possibly? It is from Texas but never asked what location it came from, I'm guessing they drain everything there?