Beginning the tear down to replace my Injection pump, water pump, and radiator.
Oregon fuel injection built me a pump which I ran to town to get today on my day off from lodge duties.
I have a Delco water pump coming in the mail.
A Brand new brass and copper radiator is on the way from Oklahoma city thanks to Miller Fabrication of Lovell Wyoming (nearest town).
So I cracked a cold one and snapped a few pictures for you before I begin.
Also looked at 13 acres of land for sale at the foot of the Bighorns.
Has a creek, a pasture, and a nice hidden gully along with easement to the highway.
50k for 13 acres.
That will have to wait until funds become available, but my plan is slowly gaining traction.
I will build a nice cabin there with a cool basement and a small shop.. okay getting ahead of myself.
Back to this M1009.
I have added a Fluidampr harmonic balancer, and a temperature gauge.
Now I will install a rebuilt injection pump, water pump, and radiator.
Then I will swap out the existing 3.08 10 bolt axles for my Dana 44 front and 12 bolt rear axles off my 76 both of which are freshly rebuilt, Yukon axle shafts, 3.73 ratio, lockers front and rear, and 33" BFG KM2's on new steel wheels.
Today I will begin by tearing into the waterpump and timing cover to gain access to the bolts that hold the injection pump drive to the sprocket.
When I am done I will have the 1986 M1009 riding on 3.73 D44 and 12 Bolt locked axles and a 1976 K5 with a 400 sbc riding on 3.08 10 bolts with a gov lock rear.
I had planned to sell the 1976 K5 but the owner of the lodge might rent it from me this winter so we have a way to tow the garbage trailer off the mountain every 2 weeks.
We are a snowbound lodge.
Only way in or out for 7 months of the year is skis or tracks.
I move the garbage trailer on skis with a Thikol snowcat 3 miles to the plowed road.
From there I take the trailer off it's skis and tow it down 5,000 feet to the Cowley dump.
load it with beer and groceries in Powell.
then reverse the process.
The healthy 400 small block in my 76 K5 turned out to be the only vehicle capable enough (and we didn't care about sliding off the mountain) to do that duty for the lodge.
The gov lock rear is not know for strength but does exceedingly well in snow and ice.
The 3.08 may improve the dismal 10 miles per gallon somewhat.
Could be a win-win situation but I may still try to sell the 76 K5 because despite it's rusty body; the 400 small block, turbo 350 trans, and np203 transfer case alone in an ugly but road worthy condition are valuable to someone.
Just gotta find that someone.
Okay, getting the Craftsman tools out.
Don't worry about the dust and my ip pump.. it rains up here at 9,000 feet in the Bighorns almost every other day.
View attachment 697025View attachment 697026View attachment 697027View attachment 697028
Here are the u-joints and pinion yoke to convert my 12 bolt to a 1330 by 3R (5-793 forged Spicer) so I can use the stock M1009 driveshaft.
Why so much trouble to put a 1976 Blazer 12 bolt under a 1986 M1009 (Blazer)?
Because in 1976 they hadn't used the 3R u-joint yet.
Finding a 3R pinion yoke for a GM 12 bolt is impossible.
Finding a 1330 pinion yoke for a GM 12 bolt is merely expensive.
The stout 12 bolt rear axle was phazed out right at the time they began using the 3R u-joint, also when the NP 208 became available.
Anyhow, can you tell I worked in a driveline service shop at one time?
1330 and 3R differ only by cap size and c-clip groove.
3R is solely a GM design and has c-clips midway down the cap for retention or factory glue to retain the caps in flanges and slip yokes..
1330 was mostly a Ford U-joint having ears on a pinion or transfer case yoke and u-bolts or circlips on the outside of end yokes to retain the caps.
The exception being 1963 to 1974 Corvettes which used the 12 bolt rear axle AND 1330 u-joints in the driveshaft.
That is where the yoke came from but it is manufactured by Yukon gear and axle.
You can literally swap caps between the Spicer 3R and 1330 forged u-joints and make a 5-793crossover 3R/1330 u-joint.
If you have factory glued-in u-joints(blue or pink glue dot and no apparent c-clips) in your driveshaft and they need replacing; MARK THE ORIENTATION OF THE SLIP YOKE TO THE DRIVESHAFT FIRST.
You may still need to have the driveshaft balanced after but a lot of times it is unnecessary so long as you keep the orientation of the parts the same. YOUR MILEAGE MAY VARY!
If you get a nasty vibration; For Pete's sake take it to a driveline shop and get it balanced.
Then press out the factory glued u-joint using an arbor press or a log splitter (my case).
The end yokes and slip yokes are always machined flat to allow replacement 3R u-joints with c-clips to fit EXCEPT in a few cases where Cadillac used non machined H-yokes and end yokes in their double cardan shaft headed driveshafts.
Don't worry.
Never seen a Chevy driveshaft that wasn't machined to accept replacement 3R c-clip u-joints.
The reason I went 1330 instead of 3R on the 12 bolt pinion was merely because it is available.
Also new NP208 slip yoke seal,new pinion seal for the 12 bolt, front 3R u-joint for the M1009 driveshaft (5-795 forged Spicer), and rear conversion u-joint (Neapco 3-3130 hd) to make the M1009 10 bolt (3R axle play nice with the rear driveshaft (1310) of the 76 K5.
Been spraying the axle u-bolts with rust breaker for a week.
The brake lines are a little different at the caliper between the 10 bolt and Dana 44.
Have read different things online.
I will work through that somehow.
View attachment 697030
Oregon fuel injection built me a pump which I ran to town to get today on my day off from lodge duties.
I have a Delco water pump coming in the mail.
A Brand new brass and copper radiator is on the way from Oklahoma city thanks to Miller Fabrication of Lovell Wyoming (nearest town).
So I cracked a cold one and snapped a few pictures for you before I begin.
Also looked at 13 acres of land for sale at the foot of the Bighorns.
Has a creek, a pasture, and a nice hidden gully along with easement to the highway.
50k for 13 acres.
That will have to wait until funds become available, but my plan is slowly gaining traction.
I will build a nice cabin there with a cool basement and a small shop.. okay getting ahead of myself.
Back to this M1009.
I have added a Fluidampr harmonic balancer, and a temperature gauge.
Now I will install a rebuilt injection pump, water pump, and radiator.
Then I will swap out the existing 3.08 10 bolt axles for my Dana 44 front and 12 bolt rear axles off my 76 both of which are freshly rebuilt, Yukon axle shafts, 3.73 ratio, lockers front and rear, and 33" BFG KM2's on new steel wheels.
Today I will begin by tearing into the waterpump and timing cover to gain access to the bolts that hold the injection pump drive to the sprocket.
When I am done I will have the 1986 M1009 riding on 3.73 D44 and 12 Bolt locked axles and a 1976 K5 with a 400 sbc riding on 3.08 10 bolts with a gov lock rear.
I had planned to sell the 1976 K5 but the owner of the lodge might rent it from me this winter so we have a way to tow the garbage trailer off the mountain every 2 weeks.
We are a snowbound lodge.
Only way in or out for 7 months of the year is skis or tracks.
I move the garbage trailer on skis with a Thikol snowcat 3 miles to the plowed road.
From there I take the trailer off it's skis and tow it down 5,000 feet to the Cowley dump.
load it with beer and groceries in Powell.
then reverse the process.
The healthy 400 small block in my 76 K5 turned out to be the only vehicle capable enough (and we didn't care about sliding off the mountain) to do that duty for the lodge.
The gov lock rear is not know for strength but does exceedingly well in snow and ice.
The 3.08 may improve the dismal 10 miles per gallon somewhat.
Could be a win-win situation but I may still try to sell the 76 K5 because despite it's rusty body; the 400 small block, turbo 350 trans, and np203 transfer case alone in an ugly but road worthy condition are valuable to someone.
Just gotta find that someone.
Okay, getting the Craftsman tools out.
Don't worry about the dust and my ip pump.. it rains up here at 9,000 feet in the Bighorns almost every other day.
View attachment 697025View attachment 697026View attachment 697027View attachment 697028
Here are the u-joints and pinion yoke to convert my 12 bolt to a 1330 by 3R (5-793 forged Spicer) so I can use the stock M1009 driveshaft.
Why so much trouble to put a 1976 Blazer 12 bolt under a 1986 M1009 (Blazer)?
Because in 1976 they hadn't used the 3R u-joint yet.
Finding a 3R pinion yoke for a GM 12 bolt is impossible.
Finding a 1330 pinion yoke for a GM 12 bolt is merely expensive.
The stout 12 bolt rear axle was phazed out right at the time they began using the 3R u-joint, also when the NP 208 became available.
Anyhow, can you tell I worked in a driveline service shop at one time?
1330 and 3R differ only by cap size and c-clip groove.
3R is solely a GM design and has c-clips midway down the cap for retention or factory glue to retain the caps in flanges and slip yokes..
1330 was mostly a Ford U-joint having ears on a pinion or transfer case yoke and u-bolts or circlips on the outside of end yokes to retain the caps.
The exception being 1963 to 1974 Corvettes which used the 12 bolt rear axle AND 1330 u-joints in the driveshaft.
That is where the yoke came from but it is manufactured by Yukon gear and axle.
You can literally swap caps between the Spicer 3R and 1330 forged u-joints and make a 5-793crossover 3R/1330 u-joint.
If you have factory glued-in u-joints(blue or pink glue dot and no apparent c-clips) in your driveshaft and they need replacing; MARK THE ORIENTATION OF THE SLIP YOKE TO THE DRIVESHAFT FIRST.
You may still need to have the driveshaft balanced after but a lot of times it is unnecessary so long as you keep the orientation of the parts the same. YOUR MILEAGE MAY VARY!
If you get a nasty vibration; For Pete's sake take it to a driveline shop and get it balanced.
Then press out the factory glued u-joint using an arbor press or a log splitter (my case).
The end yokes and slip yokes are always machined flat to allow replacement 3R u-joints with c-clips to fit EXCEPT in a few cases where Cadillac used non machined H-yokes and end yokes in their double cardan shaft headed driveshafts.
Don't worry.
Never seen a Chevy driveshaft that wasn't machined to accept replacement 3R c-clip u-joints.
The reason I went 1330 instead of 3R on the 12 bolt pinion was merely because it is available.
Also new NP208 slip yoke seal,new pinion seal for the 12 bolt, front 3R u-joint for the M1009 driveshaft (5-795 forged Spicer), and rear conversion u-joint (Neapco 3-3130 hd) to make the M1009 10 bolt (3R axle play nice with the rear driveshaft (1310) of the 76 K5.
Been spraying the axle u-bolts with rust breaker for a week.
The brake lines are a little different at the caliper between the 10 bolt and Dana 44.
Have read different things online.
I will work through that somehow.
View attachment 697030
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