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Replacing various burned out lights on M1009

nyvram

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I didn't see this in the FAQ and was confused by some of the diagrams and sellers on ebay.

If we need bulbs, are standard 12v bulbs all that is required?

Are there different bulbs for the brake lights, blinker lights, etc.?

Where on the site would I find a guide for all the bulb IDs for the various lights on the M1009?

Hopefully y'all will tell us that aside from the headlights, all the other bulbs are identical. ;)
 

nyvram

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nevermind I think i found the NAPA auto part numbers for these. is this correct for *all* the exterior lighting bulbs? (not counting blackouts)

NAPA Part | Purpose
-------------------------------------------------
1683______turn signal bulb
623_______front & rear parking bulb (brake light bulbs too?)
4863______headlights
 

M543A2

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I cannot verify your bulb numbers but I would like to say if you find your vehicle is a "bulb burner" check all grounds, engine to frame and body, body to frame, battery to body, etc. I do not know exactly what of these grounds your truck has but check all of them. Bad or missing grounds will do weird things, burning out bulbs prematurely is one of them. I bought a Dodge D200 pickup from GL that had a lot of bulbs burned out. I also found GL had done the usual bend the drive shaft. I had driven the truck on and off the trailer and then parked it and removed the drive shaft. I have a supply of shafts in storage from scrapped trucks so I intended to match it up the next day. I got home later that night to find my son trying to get the truck to run, no luck. He had all sorts of test equipment out running tests on it, no luck finding why it would not start. I said I had not had a problem, but wait, I took out the drive shaft. We found missing and bad grounds I mentioned, repaired them, and it started right up. Imagine, it was grounding all through the drive shaft! If we had not had the luck of the shaft being out when he was trying to debug it we might have had nightmares with electrical problems for who knows how long before we found out what the real problem was because it did run like it was. Some wise guy had run a shiny new woven ground cable from the alternator bolt to the front engine exhaust manifold bolt. A lot of good that did!
Regards Martin
 

nyvram

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i'm not sure its a bulb burner yet as much as a few lights don't work when we turn them on. the left blinker doesnt 'blink' and the green arrow light stays on when you start the vehicle so i'm thinking maybe that's a failsafe so you know your blinker light isnt working.

at any rate, we'll swap 'em out today and see where we are.
 

tim292stro

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S.F. Bay Area/California
1157 for front/rear turn/park/brake
1156 for backup
194 for markers.

Just did mine a week ago, using LED replacements. Let me tell you it's nice to have backup lights that throw enough light to see behind a truck...
LED_1157.jpg


The left blinker doesn't 'blink' and the green arrow light stays on when you start the vehicle so i'm thinking maybe that's a failsafe so you know your blinker light isn't working.

Check your grounds and sockets while you're working on the truck. The ground tabs in the dual filament sockets have a tendency to break off - which allows the return path for turn signals to be your parking lights (the other filament in the bulb). If fact if you turn on you parking lights and one or both of your turn signal indicators turns on dim, that's a sure fire sign your grounds are bad.


The OEM turn signal flasher uses a coil heated bi-metal contact armature to open close the load circuit - if the ground in one or both of the turn signal sockets is bad and you have the parking lights on, the back-feed of + power into the load side will prevent that coil from heating the bimetal (it just won't flash). For this reason I like the no-load flashers no matter what load you run on them.

If you do get the no-load flasher, get at least one with the pin reverser - there are two flashers, one for the Hazards where this flasher works fine, but for the turn signals the pins are swapped in the fuse block and the flasher doesn't like it (needs the pin reverser).
flasher_and_reverser.jpg pin_reverser.jpg
 
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nyvram

New member
115
1
0
Location
Franklin/TN
1157 for front/rear turn/park/brake
1156 for backup
194 for markers.

Just did mine a week ago, using LED replacements. Let me tell you it's nice to have backup lights that throw enough light to see behind a truck...
View attachment 586380
where did you get the LEDs? i've had mixed results in the past but i like the idea of having brighter backup lights.
 
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tim292stro

Well-known member
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Location
S.F. Bay Area/California
eplace, seller stefan.zheng (no affiliation) - if you don't see what you want listed as available in his buy-it-now listing, send him a PM he'll make it for you (there is a lead time of about a week).

I also found another seller (and again, no affiliation, and actually no experience with this seller) that is building a 12-led version of this style (versus the 9-LED linked/pictured above). I've been thinking about putting those in Amber in the front for some extra "oompf" due to the proximity to the headlights.
 
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