Rewiring/wiring questions advice

[EastRidge]

Within my rig the PO installed a 12v converter. This runs a whole separate circuit for a pair of LED lights in the place of the blackout lights, and trailer lights, stand alone, in the rear for running/brake.

Nothing for origional lighting works, and I believe the oem light switch is junk.

The 24v system runs the rest.

I thought I would replace the flathead/tranny, but it runs great, no smoke, and I have addressed, or at least identified the engine oil leaks.

So.......I would like a fully functioning lighting system with turns. (I really don't enjoy electrical system work)

Do I work the whole lighting system into 12v off that converter, OR try to slug through the existing 24v system, and run the turns on the 12v?

Hope I conveyed my thoughts above.

Looking for advice, and practical experience.

The underhood wiring looks kinda crunchy as well open ended conductors and coiled and zip tied.

Thanks in advance for your patient responses.

 

[NDT]

Any crunchy wiring needs to be replaced les you have a fire. Suggest you cost out the OEM harnesses vs making an entirely new 12 volt harness either yourself or by a pro.

 

[ODAddict]

That's kind of a tough one. The original wiring does get crunchy, and it needs to be repaired or replaced. Replacement is the better approach because you don't know what's going on in the areas that are unseen or unexposed.

Replacement harnesses are available. (Vintage Wiring is one resource).

The biggest obstacle to installation is the physical contortion under the cab and inside the right frame rail, transfer case cross member, and rear cross member aft of the fuel tank. The biggest benefit is that schematics and wiring diagrams are available.

Teasing out a hybrid system such as yours, (which is common), is fraught.

So, it depends on your goals and resources. If you have a lift, you're a step ahead because you're not lying on your back. Give us your thoughts. Many of us have been through this.

 

[EastRidge]

That's kind of a tough one. The original wiring does get crunchy, and it needs to be repaired or replaced. Replacement is the better approach because you don't know what's going on in the areas that are unseen or unexposed.

Replacement harnesses are available. (Vintage Wiring is one resource).

The biggest obstacle to installation is the physical contortion under the cab and inside the right frame rail, transfer case cross member, and rear cross member aft of the fuel tank. The biggest benefit is that schematics and wiring diagrams are available.

Teasing out a hybrid system such as yours, (which is common), is fraught.

So, it depends on your goals and resources. If you have a lift, you're a step ahead because you're not lying on your back. Give us your thoughts. Many of us have been through this.

My hope is to drive this until I either get tired of the flathead, or she bites the dust. Currently no smoke, and I have help leaking at bay.
For example, replacement military plug wires will cost nearly $1,000.00. A nice SBC under is just a bit more of that. I considered a hybrid set of wires, but they are like $400.00. The reason for this example is that the PO has taped the outside of most the plug wires, and I am just anticipating a failure, poor performance in damp conditions, although she's gonna be more of a fair weather queen now.

I do enjoy driving it, but as of now I am skating on thin ice with retro trailer lights for stop/run, and some LED lamps in place of the blackout for headlights, no operating horn, and of course no turns. I would like to install them somehow, as the slow speeds irritate folks enough....as here in eastern WI you gotta use yer blinkers!!

I will probably just begin to see what real condition my wiring is in and make repairs as this harness thing is scaring me.......besides I have also had a group of toggles and really cool aircraft style indicators......which could run a 12v head/tail/turn.

I really appreciate this site as a sounding board, and these things are unique.

Thanks again.