S788 on m1101 +

tobyS

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Here is the Geithner s-788 shelter that I would like to mount on my modified M1101. I want to add a place for four wheeler or golf cart onto the trailer in front of the shelter. So a new frame will attach to the axle, and to the aluminum frame. Comments please.
 

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tobyS

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The trailer was battered on all for corners, mostly at the top and came with two flat un-usable tires. Gimpyrobb helped me out and got it here on his 101 tires on his way to Wisconsin a year back. What a friend! Got a great deal on it and had the tires on it now, here. Nearly all of the damage got cut away. I learned straightening that al angle is not fun...but got it back nearly entirely.

Recently I posted pictures of my brake unit rebuild. It too showed signs of having been overloaded (bent bracket) or a mishap, and is now repaired and modified.

While I don't want to overload the single axle, I believe it can carry a lot more than the 600# shelter. I think I can add frame in front and maybe even the back to have a place for 4x4's. Dropping down under the axle with a box tube frame is not a problem and the torsion axle allows it to be directly connected to the the cross member (axle).

Then I want a frame over it all for a second story tent structure or something like that.

Any ideas?
 

Tinstar

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I think the axle is rated at least 5k. Should be a tag or decal with exact rating on it.
Not the data plate info but the actual axle tag from manufacturer.
Some great ideas, but those 4 wheelers are fairly heavy aren’t they?
Would require a lot of steel to carry them, plus all the other stuff puts it close to max gross I bet.

Shelter loaded with gear, no sweat.
Light framing for tent. Still good.
Add the 4x4s, gear, fuel, plus rig framing...It’s adding up fast.
Not to mention the stability of the whole thing. CG will be fairly high.

Maybe put a pencil to it and start adding up the weights and see where you land.
 

tobyS

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Yes, adding one 4x4 to the front is probably okay but a second in the rear is getting heavy. The tongue weight gets high with one in front, as there would be no counter-balance. As for CG, the plan is to run two frame members just under, attached to the axle (bolted, not welded). The floor of that area (in front of the 1101 box) would be about 14" lower than the floor of the 1101 (floor of S788 is about 8" above that). It reduces the ground clearance but I don't plan on doing much rough terrain camping.

I'm torn between taking off the OEM tongue clear back to the front of the bed, only taking off the part after the A-frame or not even removing it. It's in the way to have a lower floor (keep CG low) for an ATV. The steel lifting eye mounts make a good attachment point for welding frame to and the tongue itself is steel but most of the rest is aluminum.

The axle tag is painted over and I cannot take only enough paint off to read it...it's not legible. From what I have read, the 1101 and the 1102 have the same axle rating and are in fact the same trailer, just different GVW labels.

Maybe a couple of small motorcycles (with license plates) would be a better option than ATV....(but the wife no pilot a MC). At least going to the store on a road would be legal.

Thanks for your input...cutting and making such a radical change is very hard for me.
 

Tinstar

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I know what you mean.
There comes a point where the trailer is so cut up and modified, that you should have started a complete new trailer build from scratch, rather than taking a great military beyond the point of no return.

Right now it’s great for two motorcycles or one 4x4 or the shelter. Each by themselves.
The sides were jacked and you took care of that.
But now your talking about framing, etc.
I would have a hard time cutting into that myself.

These military trailers are always underrated.
But.....
I would look at all the M1101/2 pics on the internet I could find.
Somewhere, someone has a picture of the axle information I bet.
 

tobyS

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I worked in mgt/engineering for a company that manufactured torsion axles in Ohio, I think mostly for AirStream. Learning how the rubber is nitrogen frozen and the axle assembly process was quite interesting.

My job was moving a hub manufacturing business to the site from Tenn. I set up a lot of machinery but had to abandon some old high production equipment in favor of PC. A drunk for the GM boss made that get old after about 6 months. GM got mad when 25k ag hubs had about 25% that I could not get within a rather tight bearing concentric tolerance and had me scrap about 150 of them...75% being well within tolerance. Ticked me off and I bought a bunch at scrap price myself and quit, moving back to Indiana. WW2 vintage machines we moved that they insisted on using just wouldn't do it, chucks were worn out.

Those 450/80/20 Sand Trail on the 13.19 bc rim that sold cheap a year back fit perfectly. So I have the about 8 sets of the 4" axle, 25k hub, wheels and tires. Just need a paying project for them.

Gizmag or someplace had an ad for an $80k camper with some really cool stuff (yea right). Here is one I really like that might not be impossible to take some design from. https://newatlas.com/adak-camping-trailer/33280/

These are very robust axles and fastening additional frame to them is really easy....JUST DON'T WELD....there is highly compressed rubber about 2' from each end. I have a couple pieces of 3x5x3/16" wall that might make the front frame but a solid piece of 3x3x1/4" for the entire length would be nice too (don't want to buy it at a cash poor time).

Thanks for the feedback Tinstar.
 
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Tinstar

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I have an 2005 Airstream with the torsion axles and they are absolutely wonderful!!
Such a smoother ride than the spring setup.

As long as it’s not overloaded, whatever you decide will turn out great I’m sure.
 

tobyS

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View attachment 707939

Here is the axle data plate of my 2010 M1101. Axle is up for sale if you want to make a way overkill tandem :beer:.
Here is a tandem using Dexter(s) (leaf spring) under construction to fit a deuce (dump) bed.

Put a price on your axle.... someone may snatch it up. I'd love to but would have to trade/barter.
 

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tobyS

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This is my S788 on M1102. It fits perfectly. No cutting. I can move the shelter to my HMMWV as well.
View attachment 707899
There sure is a lot of variation in the Geithner S-788 and the M1101 & 2 !

Probably width is about the only dim the same, maybe height in the shelter. Are you going to use it for camping, etc?

I'm going ahead with making mine longer and as much as possible, look similar to the ADAK that I linked. Front will be level. The frame at the back tapering up is cool. I'll be adding about 6' in front (plus tongue) and about 5' behind as things stand.
 

BadRobot

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There sure is a lot of variation in the Geithner S-788 and the M1101 & 2 !

Probably width is about the only dim the same, maybe height in the shelter. Are you going to use it for camping, etc?

I'm going ahead with making mine longer and as much as possible, look similar to the ADAK that I linked. Front will be level. The frame at the back tapering up is cool. I'll be adding about 6' in front (plus tongue) and about 5' behind as things stand.
I am in a process of converting it to an overland camper. I am getting out of RTT. It is terrible in the storm. I will feel safer in the S788 shelter. Additional, I can use it as an emergency shelter. I saw a couple families in TX and CA live in a hotel night by night after hurricane and wildfire.

I already started a tear down inside. I will build most of shelf/cabinet from aluminum extrusion. I already made a platform for slide out in the tunnel. One side for kitchen/refrigerator. Another side is for battery bank, solar panel controller, recovery gears, etc. I hope I can finish it before next spring since I plan to visit Yellow Stone and Mt. Rushmore (before someone takes it down). I am considering 110v ductless AC. I saw one video on YouTube. The guy ran his AC on batteries overnight. It will be a lot better than RRT for sure.

The hard part is trying to reuse electrical panel. I have to trace down one by one since they were cut but most of electrical outlets are intact including USB ports.
 
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Landbarger

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As long as it’s not overloaded, whatever you decide will turn out great I’m sure.
Between an empty M1102 (w/ or w/o shocks) and a loaded genset trailer, I've found they pull better with weight on the torsion axles. The S788 ought to have a high CG but pull well. And if it's top heavy you can lower it!
 

tobyS

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That's what I'm thinking, that having it loaded will ride smoother. That same axle in a civilian version would be twice the rating it's tagged with.

I found my front two frame pieces. They are 3x7"x1/4"x 10'. It's time to rescue them from the outside and use them. The top of the floor will be even with the top of the axle (which is 24" above the ground unloaded) so the bottom will be 4" lower than the axle. I may box the area in for tanks.... that would put the CG much lower yet. It still leaves 16+" of ground clearance under the new front frame...which is plenty. A heavy plate above with grade 8 5/8" bolts holding it all to the axle.
 
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