Should I not have done that?

[dieselsmokem35a2]

OK, so I recently bought an M1008. It ran poorly and had several issues. One problem it had was is you goosed the throttle or were driving it and let off the gas the engine would die. It idle fine and sounded pretty good to me. I have had a deuce for 5 yrs and have done a lot of work on it and am somewhat familiar with the workings of a motor so I thought I would just start with the furl delivery system to try and solve me problem. Besides it is over two decades old and has 70k miles on it......could be 170K but I guess theres no way to ever know for sure. Anyway, I pulled the IP pump and injectors along with the vacuum pump since I now had such easy access to it and planned on replacing all of them along with the fuel filter. With all that off now I am waiting for all the parts I ordered to come in. I know your thinking well if it aint broke why you replacing all that stuff. Well, again, its an old truck and I have no idea the condition of things or maintenance history so I thought I would throw as many new parts on it as I can so I know I have a reliable truck when I am done. So far everything has come apart well when the new parts come in (IP and injectors) I am ready to reasemble. While I was waitng on parts for the top of the motor I started to go after an oil leak coming from the little oil in the bottom of the bell housing. It didnt drip oil when I got it deliverd and parked it in my garage but after one trip to the end of my street and back it was leaking black oil like a stuck pig from the little hole in the bottom of that bell housing. I assumed it was my rear main so I pulled the oil pan and rear crank block to expose the seal and all I found where the seal was supposed to be was a little chunk of fiber and nothing else. I can't find any further trace of a seal of any kind and ordered and installed a new seal. The seal was two pieces and I was able to lube the top half and slide it into the groove where it belongs (it wasnt fast or easy but better than pulling the motor). So I think my oil leak is fixed now but wont know until I get it running. While I had the pan off I also ordered and installed one of those reinforcing brakets from a company in canada that is supposed to help strengthen the lower block. Planning on a banks turbo someday so I thought either way it would be some good insurance. Anyway, my problem is that while I was still waiting for the IP to come in I decided to replace the fuel lift pump. It came out easy enough but upon reading the instruction of the new lift pump it said to make sure that the shaft the actuated the lift pump must be fully retracted before I put the new one in place. To do this simply turn the crank until it is retracted and install the pump. Well I turned the crank and here is where I have a problem. For one the shaft isnt retracting when I turn the crank(clockwise when your looking at the front?) and I also just realized I may have screwed up the timing when I turned the crank with no IP pump installed. Am I in trouble? Dont have the first clue how to time an engine, can anyone lend some advice? Is the lift pump shaft not retracting because the IP pump is not installed yet? WHAT HAVE I DONE!? Any help is greatly appreciated! I feel so stupid right about now! I figured if I can replace a head gasket on my deuce I can do anything.....errrr wrong!

 

[T_F_E]

Timing is fine don't worry. You should put a little grease of some kind on the shaft and push it up there, it wont retract itself because you took away the "spring" when you removed the pump.

 

[4bogginchevys]

you just use some thick grease to hold the fuel pump rod in/up. As for re-timing the engine for the IP, you need to know if your looking for TDC on #1 like a gas motor, pull the valve cover exposing the rockers and watch fot the right stroke to come around, the timing mark on the dampner will line up with the mark on the tang on the block........this is probably covered in depth in the tm's (resource tab), a lot to try and remember/write down on this thread. good luck

 

[dieselsmokem35a2]

Is that normal?

Timing is fine don't worry. You should put a little grease of some kind on the shaft and push it up there, it wont retract itself because you took away the "spring" when you removed the pump.

Is it normal for that shaft to be pressed hard agains the case of the motor? I can't budge it by hand and it was like that before I ever even turned the crank.

 

[4bogginchevys]

take your oldest screwdriver and bend the end so you can get under it with leverage, it's usually a pain to get it to slide up because of the oil/limited space.

 

[Warthog]

You can also remove the mounting plate for the lift pump. The pump has two blots and the plate has 4 bolts. Also try the above screwdriver trick or use some long nose plyers.

 

[CUCV85]

You can also remove the mounting plate for the lift pump. The pump has two blots and the plate has 4 bolts. Also try the above screwdriver trick or use some long nose plyers.

on the plate, remove the plate and the push rod will pop out.
Remove the push rod and coat with a good thick grease - axle if you got it.
If not use any grease coat it up real good, slide r back up in
- the grease will hold it up in there trust us. Put your plate back on
and install the fuel lift/feed pump.
I used some rtv on the gasket, both sides, that came with the fuel pump.