SimonG project CUCV future questions

[SimonG]

Afternoon folks
A friend recommended this site for info and assistance. Hopefully Ill be able to update this fairly regularly though I plan on taking my time on this due to time and money

What I have is an 85 CUCV Blazer and a modified trailer to begin playing with.
My end goal is a vehicle for hunting/fishing, BOV, Trail riding. Something that I can take across country if need be and not be too uncomfortable.

This week me and a neighbor will check it out mechanically to make sure its good to go (it seemed ok for the short drives).

My intial plans off the top of my head (in general):
convert to 12 volt
Obviously fix all the dings, dents and rust spots (there are not alot really)
For the interior I want to replace the military seats with civilian (no tears on the mil ones though), same with dash (its trashed), clean and Rhino line the interior and put down indooor/outdoor carpet

Its not that Im a bad mechanic, I just dont know crap beyond changing oil and spark plugs
should be fun

 

[cucv1833]

Welcome to the site

Nice truck. The interior looks very good. dont know why you want to change it to 12Volt the 24 system isnt that hard after doing some research and using the TMs. is that 33" tires?

 

[Warthog]

Good looking truck.

I also question the 12v conversion. Any reason why? If you stiil do it consider the Rosscommon Equipment converstion. They have it well documented and very easy to do. Search for the the PDF that I have posted many times.

The camo job looks liked of psycodellic. I like fractals.

If you do the fix all the problems and do routine maintenance, the M1009 will serve you well. Drop the ball and she could leave you stranded.

 

[combatmech]

Nice rig.....good luck

 

[Recovry4x4]

Welcome to Steel Soldiers. I will make the trifecto and also ask why the 12V conversion? As it is you have both 12V and 24V available to you and superior starting. I would do a little reading here before you make that conversion so that you can better understand the system.

 

[Cucvnut]

if you take care of the system the 24v works fine.

 

[Midnight Rider]

Nice looking 1009.

You will have a real hard time changing the spark plugs on it though.

 

[SimonG]

cucv1833, yeah they are 33's. Probably going to trade out for something less agressive. Ill mainly be using it on road so want something more suited for that.

Recovry4x4 (and the rest of the Trifecto) I was going to convert to 12v because I was wondering about the getting other electrical items to work, i.e. radios, inverters, compressor,etc....
Plan on searching the forum for info, just havent had the chance to locate the needed threads

 

[Recovry4x4]

Right now the only thing 24V is the starting circuit and maybe the glow system if its still going through the resistor. It really does have the best of both worlds. A few little durability fixes and you should be good to go.

 

[DXTAC]

LET THE GAMES BEGIN!!! Welcome to the site and the insanity. Not to sound redundant but I too would question the 12V conversion. You have 12v and 24v and your disposal to run all the toys and the 24v system is strong and not as "complicated" as many people first think. Sink the money into changing EVERY fluid, bleeding the brakes etc. My !

Once again, welcome!!

 

[Buzz]

want to sell the front seats?
where in ohio are you?

 

[SimonG]

Buzz, in Columbus. We can talk about the seats, once i find good civilian ones
As for the 24v it stays for now, Ill research it some more.
Thanks already guys, Im sure once I actually start working on it, Ill have a ton of questions.
Fluids will be replaced and lines bled ASAP

 

[southdave]

I have few sets of seats, as for the 24volt thing, it your truck dude have to build it to your level of comfort. It is weakest thing as far as reliablity gose, many have swaped over. Mine is still 24v is doese start nice,and comes in handy to jump the junk I have. When it acts up it acts been 100 bucks in parts hour pouring over schematics .

 

[combatmech]

I also have a set of seats....shipping from Va might be a bit much

 

[SimonG]

Dave you looking at getting rid of the seats?
Also is the 24V system that difficult/confusing? Mind you i need things mechanical to be simple and want things to be as easy as possible to repair/work on

 

[Ripcord01]

The camo paint job is the best... Welcome ..

 

[SimonG]

I do like the paint job but it will change when I get done with the body work. i have a feeling Im in WAY over my head here
And thanks for all the "welcome" folks

 

[southdave]

Dave you looking at getting rid of the seats?
Also is the 24V system that difficult/confusing? Mind you i need things mechanical to be simple and want things to be as easy as possible to repair/work on

Yeah, maybe, I have few sets in various states from good to crappy. I have set that is spoken for (maybe), I just have to get off my butt and swap out the heated BMW seats I have. As for the 24V thing electric has always seemed to be Black Magic to me. LOL But I manage to muttle my way though it. Time and $$ is the major factor.

 

[SimonG]

Well today I got out with my neighbor to look a little closer at the CUCV, body, undercarriage and engine compartment.
I should have had a mechanic with me when I got the vehicle but I was anxious and figured that I was going to work on it anyway.
I have downloaded/printed off the TM to do the PMCS (god I hated PMCS when I was in the Army).
All I got done on the PMCS before my neighbor came over was the body. I really didn’t find anything I didn’t know about, some rust holes, dented front left clip, grill trim, etc… I do know I need to replace:
The left front clip, Grill trim, side mirrors and maybe the passenger door. All rust holes will be repaired with metal. Most of the lights are out, but I havent even check bulbs or fuzes yet (Bulbs replaced all around)
As for checking underneath, we found the following:
Rust holes in floor pan (shouldn’t be hard to repair)
Replace universal joints (front and back (done))
Transmission plug/gasket/fluid, replaced Done 7/17/11
Rear transfer housing leaking (fixed 7/24/11)
Replace both mufflers
Replace gas tank straps
Replace shocks (Done 8/5/11 with Rancho RS5000)
5) Replace brake lines (Done but checking/fixing ONE few leaks)
Left (Done) and Right wheel cylinders
5) Brakes (rear done along with left rear drum)
Sway bar bushing
Power steering pump missing bolt
Grease tie rods
Now onto the engine compartment J
1) Pressure test coolant system Done 6/05/11
New Air filter
Clean intake
2) Power break/steering booster, not sure if thats the name (replace) Its good to go
New batteries (these are too small)
4) Change all hoses (Power steering and coolant hoses replaced 6/19/11)
(by next year I want to switch to biodiesel/WVO, should I upgrade hoses now or later?)
3) Drain and replace all fluids with ZMax Power sttering and coolant flushed 6/19/11
Wiper motor replace
Numbers are the order I plan on fixing. for the stuff on this list are the any things that i should upgrade or just go with stock replacement?

 

[SimonG]

Afternoon folks
This thread isnt as fast or exciting as some of the builds/restores/rebuilds on here (OK isnt as exciting as ANY of them ) But Im still proud of myself for being able to pressure test the coolant system on my own yesterday (OK OK with my neighbors help).
Anyway again thanks for everyones imput and help so far.

Now Im replacing the belts and hoses, no worries on the hoses but the belts...

Question is this:
Accordign to the FAQ info:

Belts​

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( all but M1010 )​

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Driver side alt- Gates# 25-7575; Dayco# 15580, Gatorback 15585 ( 58 )​

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Passenger side alt- Gates# 7483; Dayco# 15490, Goodyear "Gatorback" – 15485/15491/15495​

• Power Steering- Gates# 7448; Dayco#15455, Gatorback 15461 ( 45.5 )

When I called NAPA to get the belts they had Gates# 25-7480 for the first ALT belt (nothing on the second) and Gates# 25-7455 on the power steering.
Any recommmendations on which to go with?