Sizzling

[Bobert]

So I already think I have a ground problem since the lights dont work. But this is a new one.

After charging up the batteries, i cycled the plugs 2 times and tried to start it, and I heard two sizzling sounds when I turned the key. No clicks or cranks, zap zap.

I got out and smelled it and I beleive it came from the drivers side area under hood.

Got any Ideas? It was suggested once that maybe it's a bad solenoid. that would be nice.

 

[badgmc56]

Sounds like a fusable link burned. Possible cause, short to ground or overloaded circuit.

 

[m4A1]

There are a few fusible links connected to the junction on the driver side firewall.

 

[Bobert]

I Couldn't find anymore burned fusable links, the ones on the juction already burned out and I replaced them. After poking around in the cold and wet, I noticed my started cable was loose. Here is what I found. Keep in mind, It was a full circle connetctor. I don't know what the solenoid looks like yet.

 

[Bobert]

So I have know idea what causes this. I got the starter rebuilt a few months ago, but not the solenoind. I have been having problems wth the starter but nothing like this yet.

I appreciate you guys sharing infinate wealth of knowledge.

 

[m35a2cowner]

Connection

I have seen this happen before on other things. Most likely the battery cable connection to the starter was loose, dirty, or wet/corroded or some combination of all three. I like to clean then all up (assuming solenoid bolt and nut reusable) and use those serrated (star I believe they are called) washers. The serrations bite into the metal and make a good connection as well as keeping the separate pieces from moving/vibrating apart again. One other thing I can think of is the starter is drawing to many amps (could be caused loose connection/high resistance) or someone has cranked it to long. I would clean and tighten everything up, make sure the batteries are charged up and see what happens.

 

[m35a2cowner]

One more thing

That cable does not look like a original part. Make sure when you replace it its of the proper amperage rating to turn the motor over. Can't have to big an amperage capacity but you can have to little.

 

[Bobert]

RE: One more thing

The nut was pretty backed off, welded now. Maybe i didn't get it on tight enough last time.

We took it to the rebuilder and they said it was fried. Should get it back tonight.

Is the loose connector the cause? I don't spose that it is the reason my lights aren't working.

Could there be something else wrong that will fry the starter again? I only know of 1 way to find out.

 

[m35a2cowner]

Lights

Yes the loose nut most likely the cause. Loose connections produce higher resistance than tight ones. Resistance causes heat On some GM products there is a 8-10 gauge wire that attaches to the solenoid with the battery cable. This wire supplies voltage to other parts of the vehicle. If it burns off that might be the cause of no power for the lights If I remember correctly you mentioned that other fusible links were burned through. This could be the cause too. See if you can find a wiring diagram and tract the lighting circuit Maybe someone else can tell you most likely cause. Good luck.

 

[m35a2cowner]

One more thing

When you tighten the starter and cable up be sure to hold on to the the cable so that it does not spin and spin the bolt that goes through bakeolite cover on the end of the starter solenoid. Be sure to tighten it but not HERK on it as the cover will break with to much force.

 

[Somemedic]

I wasdriving back from valpo one night when the truck sputtered and the lights went dim. Almost died out completely. Thought it was strange but it was momentary and responded normally for the rest of the drive home. Shut it off and went on inside my house. I came back out to start it the next day and didnt even get a klik. When I looked underneath to see what the story was (had starter issues previously) I saw the starter wire hanging. Then I opened the hood up....

The front battery appeared normal. The positive wire that went from front batt to rear batt was barely clinging to the melted lead. The Pb had melted when the starter lead came loose and grounded out. I believe it only took around 5 seconds for the lead to melt. I switched the batts from front to rear and have been running them since. I know alot of jeep guys use 2batt set ups to do welding on the trail.
The importance of tightening your connections cant be emphasized enuff. Pull the protector plates off the distribution bars and tighten them up, I believe some strater wires run up to the one on the pass side firewall. Theres also ground straps on the motor on the pass side that I had an issue with not so long ago which gave me a burning smell (til it got tightened up). This 6.2 is a rattle trap so its only safe to assume that when its running its shaking the hell out of every nut and bolt on it. Check ur connections, keepem tight and you will lighten the load on your starter components and keep resistance to a minimum.

 

[Bobert]

Thanks for the info guys, I'll be sure to tighten everything the way it should be. Hopefully that will fix it, and I can drive the thing.

Somemedic, luckily my batties are not melted, I'll check the distribution bars too.

I've been studying the manuals and diagrams for months now. I picked them up at a gun show for $5. It's nice to have a hard copy.

I'll let you guys know how it turns out.

 

[gillean]

m1009 battery zap

i had a similar problem once on the 09, and i found out that the battery terminal connectors were too close to (touching, even) the rubber-coated top-of-battery holder metal tray thing. even though they are coated in rubber, it looked to me like the rubber had worn away and electricity was able to arc over and short when i engaged the starter.

sure enough i left the hood open and observed a puff of smoke and a flash from the area where the terminal was too close to the metal hold-down thing on top of the battery.

my solution was to move the terminal connectors away from the metal thing and apply some new liquid rubber stuff on to the place where the coating was worn off. I also made sure everything was tight and that the rubber terminal covers were secured where they were supposed to be. just another thing to check for other folks that might have a zap zap experience

 

[Bobert]

RE: m1009 battery zap

Ok, I finally got it in and started it a few times and nothing happend that I can tell.

I got a new wire from a car audio place but I got the wrong size connectors. I figured this out after it was snaked through. So I drilled it out with a wood bit and put it on nce and tight.

That didn't fix the lights, but who needs to drive after 5pm anyways?

 

[Somemedic]

RE: m1009 battery zap

Where does one procure fusable links? Autozone maybe?

 

[Goatwerks]

Autozone or Napa should have fuseable link wire. It is also very important to use star washers on these starter connections as it keeps the nut from backing off and provides good contact between the wire and the terminal. Loose starter wires have been the cause of many electrical problems in these vehicles. Just so you know, the 6.2L (12v models)can use a 6.5L gear reduction starter, this starter spins up a little higher in rpm over the original giving faster starts

 

[CCATLETT1984]

If you do go with the gear reduction starter as stated above, go to the chevy dealer and get the starter brace for the 6.5, the old brace wont fit the new starter and its still needed to keep from snapping starter bolts.

 

[Gamagoat1]

any particular year on the angle braket? I just tried to install the gear reduction type and you are right, just a little off, but just enough.

 

[CCATLETT1984]

iirc any vehicle with the 6.5 got the newer starter, a dealer should be able to pull up the part number. if anything have them pull the part number for the 6.2L then look for a newer number.