• Steel Soldiers now has a few new forums, read more about it at: New Munitions Forums!

  • Microsoft MSN, Live, Hotmail, Outlook email users may not be receiving emails. We are working to resolve this issue. Please add support@steelsoldiers.com to your trusted contacts.

smoke at throttle?

Kpswans

New member
17
0
0
Location
Buffalo NY
So it has been about 3 weeks since I did the headgasket on my m1008 and it seems to be smokeing more than it did before I keep checking my oil so I don't think I am burning oil. I have read that it is possible to have air in the injector lines causing fuel to not burn it only smokes from the passenger side true dual exhaust. and the exhaust tip looks wet while the driver side is dry. occurs the most while in reverse for some reason, also from stop and go traffic but not so much 2nd-3rd gear pulls. I also want to note with the return line off of the
 

M1008BOV

Member
125
0
16
Location
IN
I would have continued this in your other thread. I truly think cucvrus was on the right path. It sounds like you still have an internal leak. If the deck on the heads is not perfectly flat new gaskets won't really help, or only temporarily. Is the smoke white or black? If white, definitely a leak, if black, maybe still a fuel issue.

Did you torque the heads down in the correct sequence?

Also, I haven't looked at the TM on this motor, but you said you torqued the rockers down at 40 lb ft. Is that correct, or do you have to lash the valves? I'm going to go do some reading, b/c now I'm curious.

Edit: I just read the engine manual on the valvetrain, it is a shaft style rocker setup and the torque you listed appears correct.
 
Last edited:

cucvrus

Well-known member
11,473
10,427
113
Location
Jonestown Pennsylvania
Head studs head bolts it matters not. If that head was not checked it could be the issue. Never remove a head from any ill engine and just put it back on. Never. You are wasting more time and money then the cost of the machine shop bill. Last set of 6.2 heads I pulled and had checked/machined cost around $200. or less. My labor is worth more then that let alone the parts that are wasted. I use NEW head bolts change the bolts every time. Studs are not as easy to work with while the engine is in the truck. I had a man bring me his truck and the studs were not seated properly. I pulled the engine sent the heads out and had the engine back in. I removed both sets of studs and threw them in the scrap pile. I knew nothing about them and 2 people told me 2 different ways of doing it. I figured once they were on they stretched just like the stock torque to yield bolts and I wanted this job done. New bolts and the truck has lived happily ever after. Sometimes this fancy stuff is not compatible and doing the job without the machine work is a waste of time period. Just trying to help. I think we discussed this pre-op. Here we are post-op. Still same issue.
 
Top
AdBlock Detected

We get it, advertisements are annoying!

Sure, ad-blocking software does a great job at blocking ads, but it also blocks useful features of our website like our supporting vendors. Their ads help keep Steel Soldiers going. Please consider disabling your ad blockers for the site. Thanks!

I've Disabled AdBlock
No Thanks