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Source: NEW side-board pins for M101A2?

Dave Kay

Active member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
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Location
Kingman AZ
What I need are a set of 8, NEW side-board pins. Not old rusty-used ones like in the picture... (please don't ask why)

Here are the specs:

From Army M101A2 Trailer TM for part labeled "straight headed pin"
See pg. 269 (Also noted as page 20-1)
quantity 8
straight headed pin P.N. 7339438
cotter pin P.N. MS24665-353

P.N. 5315-00-733-9438 Characteristics Data
MRC Criteria Characteristic
MATT MATERIAL STEEL OVERALL
SFTT SURFACE TREATMENT ZINC AND CHROMATE OVERALL
STDC SURFACE TREATMENT DOCUMENT AND CLASSIFICATION QQ-Z-325 TY 2 CL 2 FED SPEC SINGLE TREATMENT RESPONSE OVERALL
STYL STYLE DESIGNATOR L193 STRAIGHT
ABMZ DIAMETER 0.478 INCHES MINIMUM AND 0.520 INCHES MAXIMUM
ABPB UNDER HEAD LENGTH 2.719 INCHES MINIMUM AND 2.781 INCHES MAXIMUM
AASK HEAD STYLE 40 ROUND
CRRG PIN HEAD DIAMETER 0.844 INCHES MINIMUM AND 0.906 INCHES MAXIMUM
HGTH HEIGHT 0.344 INCHES MINIMUM AND 0.406 INCHES MAXIMUM
ABRB HOLE ARRANGEMENT STYLE 1 ONE END DRILLED
ABRC FIRST HOLE DIAMETER 0.141 INCHES MINIMUM AND 0.144 INCHES MAXIMUM
ABRE DISTANCE FROM CENTERLINE OF HOLE TO END OF PIN 0.344 INCHES MINIMUM AND 0.406 INCHES MAXIMUM
 

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motomacguyver

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I would be able to make some of these. However I would suggest using stainless steel. I know, it’s not "correct", but you will never have to think about it again. Material cost is the crux. If Stainless is not used then the cost comes in by having them plated. In my experience the Zinc Chromate (yellowish) coating, corrodes in a couple of years any how.

Not trying to step on anyone’s toes here, just an offer.

If some surplus can be found, it would definitely be more cost effective.2cent
 

PUZZLED

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katy, TX
Have you tried McMaster-Carr ?

I get all kinds of odd bits for different fabrication jobs i take on in my spare time, and McMaster has what i need 99% of the time. Heck sometime i just dig around in the catalog and find stuff to weld to other stuff that makes something i didn't even know i needed :cool:

------------edit---------------
Try this: Last item on the "Wear-resistant clevis pins" list looks to be within your specs. They have stainless steel also if you dig a little

http://www.mcmaster.com/#catalog/117/3324/=c4gcb3
 
Last edited:

Dave Kay

Active member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
501
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28
Location
Kingman AZ
Ok, here's the sum of my research; yes I have looked at the McMaster catalog and there are similar pins which could suffice, but they're not exact. Their prices seem reasonable though.

A local guy with a fastener store has similar pins but they would need to be moddified by cutting length and re-drilling cotter key hole, price about $5 each.

Then, here is the site where I got my dimensions I had posted originally; http://www.wbparts.com/rfq/5315-00-733-9438.html

These are EXACT replacements and dimensions are exact too. Problem; this guy is an aircraft supply store and like everything in aviation it costs an arm and a leg; he quoted me $24 bucks a peice PLUS shipping. Then, as if he suddenly realized that no one but the Federal govt would pay that price, he said he would drop them to $22 bucks apiece--- gee thanks!

To motomcgyver; thanks for your input much appreciated. Are you a machinist with a machine shop? Also, I wonder how you would fab these pins; from new stock, same exact dimension? Or maybe modify an exsisting pin? OR???? And wonder also how cost effective it would be?

At this point I would settle for used pins and just clean them up real good... meanwhile the search continues...
 

motomacguyver

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Eau Claire, Wi. USA
Yes, I'm a machinist with a machine shop. I would fab these from solid, cold rolled steel, or stainless steel. To your exact specs.

Both materials have their own advantages,

Cold rolled steel will rust overnight on contact with water. But is cheap and easy to machine.

Stainless will not rust, is more expensive, and harder to machine=more time.

The tolerances are wide open, however, I would have to start with 7/8 inch stock and cut it down, which takes a little time.

I can quote these for you early next week, as I am not at the shop right now.

As with anything the higher the quanity the less the $. I get my material from Mc master carr, and don't mark it up.
 
Last edited:

URBNFLX

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Location
Fremont, Ca
Yes, I'm a machinist with a machine shop. I would fab these from solid, cold rolled steel, or stainless steel. To your exact specs.

Both materials have their own advantages,

Cold rolled steel will rust overnight on contact with water. But is cheap and easy to machine.

Stainless will not rust, is more expensive, and harder to machine=more time.

The tolerances are wide open, however, I would have to start with 7/8 inch stock and cut it down, which takes a little time.

I can quote these for you early next week, as I am not at the shop right now.

As with anything the higher the quanity the less the $. I get my material from Mc master carr, and don't mark it up.

Sent you a PM with details...
 
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