Installing the Speedometer cable in the M1009 is fairly straight forward. I just installed mine- the outer plastic sheath was shabby and had worn t the steel core causing erratic readings. Here are a few of my observations that may save a little head scratching for the next guy:
The parts store will offer several options. You want the 100" cable. The OEM has bracing on the undercarriage end to provide proper angle of attack to the transmission. I got mine at NAPA- it came without the steel brace.
I released the cable by reaching up under the dash and depressing the cable clamp. Pulling it through the grommet and hoping to reuse the grommet was not gonna happen- it was too brittle. I cut it out and promptly looked in the TM for the part number. came up with 679759. Available on the net for about $10.
The TM shows placement of the guide brackets- I believe 8mm and 10mm- shop towel, headlamp and 1/4" ratchet with extension made short work.
Hope it helps.
I installed the bottom end first and then routed the line through the bottom two brackets, ending up with lots of cable to work with until the top end was connected to the speedometer.
TIP: Mark the original cable BEFORE you release it from the uppermost bracket- under the hood. A piece of tape wrapped around the cable at: outside of the grommet, and at the first bracket will help you determine how much cable needs to be fed through the firewall, and also give to the appropriate amount of cable above the first firewall bracket to keep strain to the minimum.
The big mental challenge was to feed the top end of the Sppedo cable through a 3/16" hole in a solid rubber grommet. I would've taken photos, but I surprised myself with the first effort, so here's a drawing:
I used spray silicone- the kind to lube sliding door tracks, to cut friction.
Connect a 1/4" to 3/8" to 3/8" to 1/2" adapter to step open the hole. I pushed the adapters through easily until the grommet was around the 1/2" end about 5/8" outside diameter. Had a jumbo Sharpie in my tool bag- I pushed the grommet off of the adapter and onto the end of the marker pen. The diameter of the speedo end of the cable was a bit smaller than the pen and I was able to slide the grommet off of the pen and onto the cable.
I cleared around the grommet opening of the firewall and shoved the entire grommet into the cab. Once inside, I crawled under the dash and pushed the grommet back until the barb of the grommet caught in the hole but could not get it seated. I created a collar of electrical tape about 3 inches from the end of the cable- It was about 1" in diameter. From the engine side I was able to pull on the speedo cable as the collar of tape forced the grommet outward. Worked the grommet barb with a flat screwdriver until it seated. BONUS: the collar helped me to really force the cable into the speedometer. I just left it in place.
The parts store will offer several options. You want the 100" cable. The OEM has bracing on the undercarriage end to provide proper angle of attack to the transmission. I got mine at NAPA- it came without the steel brace.
I released the cable by reaching up under the dash and depressing the cable clamp. Pulling it through the grommet and hoping to reuse the grommet was not gonna happen- it was too brittle. I cut it out and promptly looked in the TM for the part number. came up with 679759. Available on the net for about $10.
The TM shows placement of the guide brackets- I believe 8mm and 10mm- shop towel, headlamp and 1/4" ratchet with extension made short work.
Hope it helps.
I installed the bottom end first and then routed the line through the bottom two brackets, ending up with lots of cable to work with until the top end was connected to the speedometer.
TIP: Mark the original cable BEFORE you release it from the uppermost bracket- under the hood. A piece of tape wrapped around the cable at: outside of the grommet, and at the first bracket will help you determine how much cable needs to be fed through the firewall, and also give to the appropriate amount of cable above the first firewall bracket to keep strain to the minimum.
The big mental challenge was to feed the top end of the Sppedo cable through a 3/16" hole in a solid rubber grommet. I would've taken photos, but I surprised myself with the first effort, so here's a drawing:
I used spray silicone- the kind to lube sliding door tracks, to cut friction.
Connect a 1/4" to 3/8" to 3/8" to 1/2" adapter to step open the hole. I pushed the adapters through easily until the grommet was around the 1/2" end about 5/8" outside diameter. Had a jumbo Sharpie in my tool bag- I pushed the grommet off of the adapter and onto the end of the marker pen. The diameter of the speedo end of the cable was a bit smaller than the pen and I was able to slide the grommet off of the pen and onto the cable.
I cleared around the grommet opening of the firewall and shoved the entire grommet into the cab. Once inside, I crawled under the dash and pushed the grommet back until the barb of the grommet caught in the hole but could not get it seated. I created a collar of electrical tape about 3 inches from the end of the cable- It was about 1" in diameter. From the engine side I was able to pull on the speedo cable as the collar of tape forced the grommet outward. Worked the grommet barb with a flat screwdriver until it seated. BONUS: the collar helped me to really force the cable into the speedometer. I just left it in place.
