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stalling now no start

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d_holden

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Well here is my sttange problem. I have a 1986 m1008 with 31k. I started it the other day as always, when I left the house it stalled at the bottom of my street. I eventually got it restarted and drove for about 20 min. until it stalled again. Took a while but eventually it started again and was fine after that. The next day I started it and it stalled again, restarted with some effort. I usually get my fuel from the same place, however the week before this I was in a pinch and bought fuel at a different place. Trying to eliminate the possibilty of bad fuel I added Power Service Diesel 911. I drove it again a few days later with the same issues. Now truck will not start. I have researched on here and have seen mention of fuel shutoff failing. Is there a way of checking that and where is the fuel shutoff located? Or any other ideas on what to check would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance for your responses.
 
Somemedic

Somemedic

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Sounds like fuel delivery...

Make sure you dont have air escaping into the fuel line. Theres a rubber connection that jumps the steel line coming fromo the fuel tank to the steel line going into the lift pump. Its on the frame rail in front of the rear passenger wheel. Make sure this hasnt deteriorated and that the connection is still good.

Check the bleeder screw on top of the fuel filter housing that it hasnt come loose. Make sure the filter base is tight as well.

Whens the last time you changed the fuel filter? If the 'Water in Fuel ' light has come on in the past few hundred miles you may need to replace it anyway. BTW, the WIF light will activated if there is a restriction in the fuel line. Something to keep in mind...

Lets check to see if the return line injector is clogged. This is the injector on top of the injector pump that faces the front of the truck. It has a 'J' shaped rubber hose that runs from the RL injector down to a hardline that runs into the motor's injectors. Remove the rubber hose from the injector and get a deep socket (9/16 I think) and take it off of the IP. Look insiide and see if theres any debris. Inside this injector (reminds me of a spark plug) is a clear glass plunger that acts as a one way valve. It should be clear and move freely. If theres crap inside /it doesnt move freely back and forth get an allen and some carb spray and clean it out until it does.

If these things dont solve your problems then you may have a sick lift pump. Its found on the front of the motor, passenger side, kinda low. Should have 2 steel line going in and out of it. It helps to pull fuel out of the tank and up to the IP. You can use the civy 6.2 version found at any zone/pep/napa store. Tell them its for a 6.2 diesel, though it may resemble a mechanical fuel pump for a chev350. Its a "J Code" motor BTW, if the counter guy asks, not that its a big deal. Buy some 'line wrenches' if youre going to change the lift pump, the steel ines dont want to give easily after 25 yrs and they come in handy for other projects.

Let us know if this cures your problem or if you find something different. If you follow this I think it will solve your problem though. These are the most common hassels we've all dealt with
 
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d_holden

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I appreciate your response I will check all these on Monday. I changed the fuel filter two months ago. I did notice it seems kind of wet below the fuel filter area against the firewall, so I am going to start there. Not to sound stupid but the ip is located behind the water pump correct?
 
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CCATLETT1984

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the fuel shutoff that you speak of is inside the top of the injector pump. with the key in the "run" position pull the PINK wire from the top of the injector pump with the truck OFF. you should hear a click. you should hear another click when you put the wire back on.
 
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acetomatoco

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Excellent writeup from Somemedic. There is the possibility of oring leaking in the pressure switch on top of the filter housing, too. This is part of the STEICE pickup.
 
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Mike_Pop

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I recently had a similar problem with my 1984 M1009. It turned out that the O-ring on the injector pump driveshaft had deteriorated. I had to pull the pump to replace it. After that, the truck ran perfectly.

Hope you resolve your issue. Please post your results.
 
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d_holden

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Thank you all for your responses and help. I bled the air out of the system pulling the pink wire on the ip and opening the bleeder valve on the filter. I found a bad fuel line located by the fuel tank and replaced it. Once I bled the system it starts right up and runs for approx 5-10 mins and then dies. Rebleed the system and starts up again and dies again after 5-10 mins. I noticed that the bottom drain hose is wet with diesel fuel. I wiped it off rebled the system and runs for 5-10 again and dies. Bottom drain hose is once again wet with fuel. I removed the bottom drain hose and put a bolt with teflon tape on it to eliminate that drain. Rebled again same outcome, bolt is wet with diesel fuel so I think its poss that the base is leaking somewhere running down behind the filter and making it appear that the drain is leaking. I have removed the base and I am now going to run a barb between the in and out lines thus eliminating the filter to see if thats where the problem lies. I obviously am not going to leave it this way but feel this would be a good way to eliminate or point the finger at the filter base. Filter was changed 2 months ago. I am considering doing a spin on racor setup and would like some feedback on that. I also removed the cover from the ip and it was full of fresh clean diesel fuel. I removed the line from the top of the ip and then removed the injector that the rubber hose was attached to and all seemed fine to me. Where is the glass plunger one way vale thing located that everyone talks about? Once again everybody thanks for the help. Any other tips or suggestions I am all ears. I will post my results again once I am finished.
 
Armada

Armada

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Sounds like the pressure switch in the back of the filter housing is leaking, like ace said. It is common. Unbolt the housing, clean and dry the back off then start it and watch. Bet it will get wet from that spot.
 
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d_holden

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Can you give me an idea which one is the pressure switch and how to fix it? I was confused when I had to disconnect three connections. Pics would be great but i don't want to be greedy. Again thanks for the help! :?:
 
Somemedic

Somemedic

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Glass plunger/one way valve is located inside the return line injector you took off. IF you take a small allen and try to push through, it should stop inside the injector, against the bead. The bead should slide freely unless some dude may have already busted out the glass bead. No biggie I guess since some of us run without the bead inside the injector.

I've been lucky so far and havent had the filter leak on me yet. I should think theres a write up on doing a retrofit of the screw on type filter here someplace. Maybe on G503.com..? If nothing else it would make a good sticky
 
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CCATLETT1984

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Re: RE: stalling now no start

Somemedic said:
Glass plunger/one way valve is located inside the return line injector you took off. IF you take a small allen and try to push through, it should stop inside the injector, against the bead. The bead should slide freely unless some dude may have already busted out the glass bead. No biggie I guess since some of us run without the bead inside the injector.

I've been lucky so far and havent had the filter leak on me yet. I should think theres a write up on doing a retrofit of the screw on type filter here someplace. Maybe on G503.com..? If nothing else it would make a good sticky
Click to expand...
his issue is not with that part of the injector pump, but with the sensor on the back of the filter base itself. I will take a pic of the spare base that i have. also to replace the filter, just unhook it, and put a wix/cat filter base on the fire wall, then hook the fittings back up.
 
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CCATLETT1984

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RE: Re: RE: stalling now no start

wow, you beat me to posting a pic, thanks for doing that.

the civilian trucks dont have that pressure sender in the filter base, its not in the casting for them. that sender is used only for the STE/ICE military diagnostic equipment. if its leaking you can pull it out and tap it and put a pipe plug in.
 
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d_holden

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RE: Re: RE: stalling now no start

Thank you so much for the pics!!!! I will take the base off and start there. Once again thank you all for the help.
 
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d_holden

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RE: Re: RE: stalling now no start

Ok sorry one last dumb question. After tapping hole and adding screw do I put the switch back in or leave it out?
 
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