Steering wheel stuck on

[ramdough]

Swapping steering wheel…

Rented a puller ….. it stripped the threads out of the hub….. what to try next?


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[MrMikey4026]

Tap the holes to bigger SAE size, use bigger bolts.
Remove turn signal switch first.

 

[Mullaney]

Tap the holes to bigger SAE size, use bigger bolts.
Remove turn signal switch first.

.
And load the thing up with some penetrating oil @ramdough .
AND it will help to give the puller a love tap every now and again to help the wheel move. Tension and Tap (repeat as necessary)

For whatever reason - guessing IDGARA - the windows aren't regularly rolled up when the military driver exits the truck.
Rain or Shine, Windows Up or Windows Down, it just doesn't seem to matter with them.

 

[Ronmar]

penetrating oil and as mentioned, load it up then give the center bolt on the puller a tap with a hammer.

 

[Guruman]

A little heat wouldn't hurt as long as you didn't damage the wheel. I have a small butane torch that's good for that kind of thing. It doesn't need to be red hot, just enough expansion to break the bond between the two parts.

 

[chucky]

Worst case if your not worried about the steering wheel your pulling off take a 4 or 4 1/2 in grinder with a thin cuting disc and put single cut straight up and down like the steering column in the steering wheel itself and try not to get too deep but if you get into the main shaft shouldnt effect it with just one cut then just spread the cut open and take it off

 

[ramdough]

I got a bigger puller and a bearing splitter. Gonna try that next. If that fails, I might try the grinder.


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[BERZERKER888]

 

[BERZERKER888]

this is what I used .. .. since I was careful and sis not strip out the threads on the steering wheel.. took 1 gentle minute to remove the OEM wheel... the only caveat was installing the new after market wheel required 1 inch longer bolts than was included with the kit in order to reposition the wheel to have it "reasonably" straight as the truck went down the road... I'm sure retapping the stripped threads and getting appropriately sized bolts for the puller would work just fine

 

[BERZERKER888]

and this is the aftermarket steering wheel..

 

[Ronmar]

Yea I had to round up longer bolts than I had with my puller when I pulled my original wheel also, to get full thread engagement.

 

[ramdough]

Well, tried something else and failed.



I was able to clamp on the rubber around the turn signal cancel piece. I bent the bearing splitter.

I lost my nerve after a bit. I did some love taps with a smallish hammer.

I may use the grinder. This was an HI truck, so it had a few rust spots heard and there.

 

[ramdough]

and this is the aftermarket steering wheel..View attachment 877449

That is the one I have. How do you like it?


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[Mullaney]

Well, tried something else and failed.

View attachment 879150

I was able to clamp on the rubber around the turn signal cancel piece. I bent the bearing splitter.

I lost my nerve after a bit. I did some love taps with a smallish hammer.

I may use the grinder. This was an HI truck, so it had a few rust spots heard and there.

.
I suggest a 3# hammer. Tension the puller, then hit it. Don't try to kill it, but give it a good thump. If that doesn't work, spray with your favorite penetrating oil while the puller still has the wheel under tension. Spray it every day for several days and snug the puller a little more. Be smart, tight but don't break the puller. Keep spraying and sooner or later with another love tap ot or two on the puller screw - eventually it will give.

I know you already know, but these trucks - even though they had windows in most cases - would get parked with the windows down if it was hot. If it rained, so what. The 19 year old driver didn't give a flying flip. If there was a turret on top, it had a built in leak. If it had a metal turret cover, it also had a built in leak. You are fighting stupidity and that takes time and effort. Slow and persistent. Penetrating oil, tension, and time... You'll win eventually.