Stuck Reconnection Switch MEP-002a

[jacobsk]

I set off to set up my MEP-002a for a load test today. Ran to the hardware store and picked up a 4500w 240v water tank heater element to test with.

Since the generator is new to me I hadn't had to move the reconnection switch from 120v/1 phase (up) which is where it was located when I purchased the unit. I started by rolling the switch clockwise to 240v/1 phase (right) and it locked in place with a brisk click, rolled it counter clockwise back to 120v/1 phase (up) and all was well. Then curiosity got the best of me and I rolled it counterclockwise again to 208v/3 phase (left) and the click was less sharp. Dang! that sucker was locked and didn't want to budge.

Wiggling the knob didn't do it. Opening the side of the box I tried tapping on the switch to see if I could knock it loose, alot of tapping, finally I gave up and came inside to see if there were any past expieriences on SS to reference.

I searched through about a dozen SteelSoldiers threads where others have encountered the problem. I loosened the 7/16 nut on the side of the switch and gave it a small bit of PB blaster to try and free it up. Wiggle, wiggle, wiggle, wiggle for another seven or eight minutes, nothing. Switch was locked in the 8 o'clock position and didn't want to budge.

I figured I would let the penetrating oil soak for a bit and see if that made a difference. While doing so I found a post on here where someone had success with using a brass drift punch. I don't have a drift punch but I do have a tack hammer so I went back out and tapped on the stud with the switch removed and the side of the switch mechanism for a few more minutes, both to no avail.

I came back down to the shop and started searching for something to use as a punch so I could more accurately tap on various areas of the switch body. What I found was a brass screw I had left over from repairing an old rocking chair. It's about three inches long, and it's either a #8 or #10, not sure which.

I went back out to the generator and tried the wiggle method again, nothing. Then started tapping on the stud with the knob removed. Finally I started looking for places to tap using my newfound screw as a punch.

I held it in my hand and it appeared to me that the brass screw had the same threads as the screw which held the knob onto the stud. I screwed the brass screw into the end of the stud and tapped for a little while unsuccessfully.

Frustrated, I sat back and stared at the switch, annoyed at the thought of having to remove the fuel tank to remove the switch from the box (my next step).

I removed the brass screw from the end of the stud and placed the knob back on so that I could get back to another attempt at wiggling. Before starting I threaded the brass screw into the stud; though this time with the knob in place.

I put pressure on the knob in the counterclockwise direction and tapped the brass screw. Click! the switch released to the 9 o'clock position where it should be!

In a moment of joy I quickly returned the switch to the vertical orientation, then clicked it back down to the left where it immediately got stuck again. I applied counterclockwise pressure to the knob and tapped the brass screw again and click! it released for me again.

I do not know what the internals of this switch look like, nor do I ever desire to have to take one apart. It does make sense that relieving the pressure from whatever locking mechanism exists in there while tapping on the stud helps free it up.

A few more cycles with the same tapping while holding the knob and now the switch doesn't stick in place anymore.

Hopefully this helps the next guy who encounters this problem

 

[cuad4u]

I am the one who posted about using a brass drift punch to get the switch to move. Glad you were successful. I would put it in the 120/240V single phase position and leave it there. I have a homemade brass drift punch. It is 3/4 inch in diameter and 12 inches long. I did all the usual stuff. I loosened the nuts, sprayed PB Blaster into the crevices of the switch and let it soak. Doing all that and letting the switch soak for a couple of days and then giving it a sharp rap with a small hammer via the brass drift punch on the front gold colored metal housing of the switch while trying to turn the knob has loosened several stuck switches. So far all stuck switches have been successfully un-stuck by doing this. Since stuck switches is a common problem, I am glad you gave all of us another method to try.