TH400 auto used for plowing snow

[mbavers]

M1008 6.2L 4WD auto. Trans was misused by previous owner. I thought I could get one more season out of it. Wrong. No reverse now, and forward clutches slip, so I am going to get it rebuilt. Also, am going to add a cooler. I see ad for a "super" rebuild meant to handle higher HP and heavier duty work. My question is, is this necessary? I'm thinking that if it overheats the "super" rebuild is not going to help anything. Hopefully, with the cooler, it will not overheat again. Should I go with the standard rebuild?

 

[m1010plowboy]

You're a fresh CUCV face on Steel Soldiers so welcome aboard and tell us a little more about the truck's future.

Are you plowing with it as well or retiring the truck for Friday night cruises?

We added a transmission cooler but it doesn't make complete sense without a transmission temperature gauge. No sense cooling a transmission when 'straight' plowing in temperature's below -20C because "optimum operating temperature" is the real goal with most transmissions.

We put an isolator switch on our cooler so I'd turn it on during hot highway runs and the odd time I was R/D/R/D/R/D plowing....which is avoided because it's hard on the CUCV.

In addition to the list of related threads at the page bottom of each "well titled" thread, I found an old link with some real good CUCV transmission info regarding temps.
http://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?63660-TH400-temp

When a guy can afford to put the best of anything together, you probably should. If the shop is reputable and stands behind the work it's a win/ win situation for both of you.

We're hearing rumors that parts of Alaska missed winter so what's the real story out of Homer?

 

[mbavers]

You're a fresh CUCV face on Steel Soldiers so welcome aboard and tell us a little more about the truck's future.

Are you plowing with it as well or retiring the truck for Friday night cruises?

We added a transmission cooler but it doesn't make complete sense without a transmission temperature gauge. No sense cooling a transmission when 'straight' plowing in temperature's below -20C because "optimum operating temperature" is the real goal with most transmissions.

We put an isolator switch on our cooler so I'd turn it on during hot highway runs and the odd time I was R/D/R/D/R/D plowing....which is avoided because it's hard on the CUCV.

In addition to the list of related threads at the page bottom of each "well titled" thread, I found an old link with some real good CUCV transmission info regarding temps.
http://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?63660-TH400-temp

When a guy can afford to put the best of anything together, you probably should. If the shop is reputable and stands behind the work it's a win/ win situation for both of you.

We're hearing rumors that parts of Alaska missed winter so what's the real story out of Homer?

Thanks for the reply and thanks for the link. I think I'll add a temp gauge to the pan. I plan on using the truck mainly in the winter for snowplowing; temps will generally average 0F to 30F or so ( -18C to 0C). I used to do this stuff myself, but getting too old to be lying on my back in the snow and ice. I'm going to have my mechanic install a cooler in line and before the radiator, so if it cools too much the radiator will add a little heat. If it is too cool I can temporarily block part of the cooler.

I live 15 east of Homer at about 1000 ft. Winters are not what they used to be; lots of warming and rain during the winter.

 

[cucvrus]

I have 5 plow trucks in my maintenance fleet. All are CUCV's. They are all stock TH400 and have the stock oil coolers. I plow about a 50 acre lot with them and all the drives and side roads in the complex. I drive a M1008 daily at work and it is stock all around except color. I pull trucks and 30 yard dumpsters with it on a weekly basis. I pull forklifts and other equipment out of the mud constantly. The forward and reverse have failed on several of my plow trucks over the past 20 + years. That is hard on them. It is really hard once it gets the hesitation in the drive to reverse shift. If you hit the accelerator during the hesitation it will split the transmission case. I have done so on several units during major snow storms. I try to get them repaired as soon as I suspect and feel the shift to reverse hesitation. It is not long to the world when that starts happening. Plowing snow is the worst thing you can do to a CUCV. Second to hitting a bridge abutment at 60 MPH. I have junked a few CUCV's that were worn out from plowing. 2 but they were worn out. Both of them started out as M1010 units.

 

[mbavers]

I have 5 plow trucks in my maintenance fleet. All are CUCV's. They are all stock TH400 and have the stock oil coolers. I plow about a 50 acre lot with them and all the drives and side roads in the complex. I drive a M1008 daily at work and it is stock all around except color. I pull trucks and 30 yard dumpsters with it on a weekly basis. I pull forklifts and other equipment out of the mud constantly. The forward and reverse have failed on several of my plow trucks over the past 20 + years. That is hard on them. It is really hard once it gets the hesitation in the drive to reverse shift. If you hit the accelerator during the hesitation it will split the transmission case. I have done so on several units during major snow storms. I try to get them repaired as soon as I suspect and feel the shift to reverse hesitation. It is not long to the world when that starts happening. Plowing snow is the worst thing you can do to a CUCV. Second to hitting a bridge abutment at 60 MPH. I have junked a few CUCV's that were worn out from plowing. 2 but they were worn out. Both of them started out as M1010 units.

Thanks for the info. I only plow my road (about 1 mile) and around the house, so hoping for a long life from the trans. By the way, do you prefer to plow in 4 LOW and put up with the auto shift from first to second, or 4 HIGH and keep the trans in first gear?

 

[cucvrus]

I shift transmission/transfer case as needed. I am usually plowing in 4HI/Drive. It will speed cast the snow better that way. I seldom have to put it in 4LO for plowing. Just allow time for the transmission to do the switch from Drive to Reverse while shifting. Don't get on the throttle during the nuetral transition between gears that is a lot of the problems and that nuetral interval/absence of gear just keeps getting worse and worse if you don't allow for the shift. I used to plow snow like I was in a tank and push and hit everything in my way. I am a bit more experienced now and can do a lot of plowing with minimal damage. 25 years ago I had a mechanic and welder on standby. Now I can plow snow 8-10 hours with out a breakdown. Easy does it and speed does not make the snow plowing easier. It will just bust you and things up. Wear your seat belt while plowing. I have bloody a lip and nose a few times on frost heaves and things that were left out under the snow. I pushed a 40 ft I beam thru a garage door already. It was delivered and dropped off out front the night before the snow. I hope that helps. The CUCV is a great snowplow vehicle if nothing else. It can run 24/7 with full lights and heat. Most other trucks I have run out of electric and others just can't take it. The CUCV is the snow plow king.

 

[tourus]

if you are going to get the trans rebuilt talk to the shop about putting the high energy clutches in an the pistons from a 4l80 they are a great up grade and put in some kind of shift kit for heavy duty work and a good cooler you will like the end results.. I did this work and have been real happy with the way the trans feel when it shifts and hooks up ..

 

[mbavers]

I shift transmission/transfer case as needed. I am usually plowing in 4HI/Drive. It will speed cast the snow better that way. I seldom have to put it in 4LO for plowing. Just allow time for the transmission to do the switch from Drive to Reverse while shifting. Don't get on the throttle during the nuetral transition between gears that is a lot of the problems and that nuetral interval/absence of gear just keeps getting worse and worse if you don't allow for the shift. I used to plow snow like I was in a tank and push and hit everything in my way. I am a bit more experienced now and can do a lot of plowing with minimal damage. 25 years ago I had a mechanic and welder on standby. Now I can plow snow 8-10 hours with out a breakdown. Easy does it and speed does not make the snow plowing easier. It will just bust you and things up. Wear your seat belt while plowing. I have bloody a lip and nose a few times on frost heaves and things that were left out under the snow. I pushed a 40 ft I beam thru a garage door already. It was delivered and dropped off out front the night before the snow. I hope that helps. The CUCV is a great snowplow vehicle if nothing else. It can run 24/7 with full lights and heat. Most other trucks I have run out of electric and others just can't take it. The CUCV is the snow plow king.

Thanks. I am assuming that keeping it in 1st gear and 4H would over-rev the engine at normal plow speeds. I always like to let off the accelerator pedal during shifts with any auto trans (old habit) but have difficulty knowing when it's going to shift. Guess I'll figure it out.

 

[mbavers]

if you are going to get the trans rebuilt talk to the shop about putting the high energy clutches in an the pistons from a 4l80 they are a great up grade and put in some kind of shift kit for heavy duty work and a good cooler you will like the end results.. I did this work and have been real happy with the way the trans feel when it shifts and hooks up ..

I will check that out....thanks.

 

[MarcusOReallyus]

I see ad for a "super" rebuild meant to handle higher HP and heavier duty work.

Watch out for online sellers of custom transmissions. Do your homework really well, don't trust the ad copy on the website.

 

[mbavers]

Watch out for online sellers of custom transmissions. Do your homework really well, don't trust the ad copy on the website.

I agree, and have decided to go with a local rebuild shop and trust that the OEM trans should be able to handle the job. I think the only thing extra I have to do is add the cooler.

 

[cucvrus]

I have been running with the snow plow on the M1008 the last few days. I had a few flickers of the high temperature light while driving on I 81 north. It seems to just flicker and come on for a brief second. As I am driving I lowered the plow then it stayed out. I find it hard to believe that at 20 degrees and 60 MPH that the temperature light would come on. But it did. I am wondering how this same truck pulls a trailer in 95 degree weather on I 81 and never over heats. And how about the winter covers? IDK. But I had a funny thing happen a few years back. I sent a co-worker down I 81 with the plow on and he called me and ask me what the red sailboat light meant. Take a look at that light. If it just flickers it looks like a sail boat. I never thought of it till I looked at it and could see where one might refer to it as a sailboat in a sea of red. That was funny. He said it flickered a few times and went out. I laughed and told him it was the high temp light. He could not see the symbol I was referring to. Funny. I am going to take a look at the clutch fan. How would it be with the arctic front on?

 

[mbavers]

A rebuilder I talked to told me that the plow blocks enough flow when raised to cause overheating. He was talking about plow trucks in general. Most of the time I am running with the plow down, so I don't think I need to worry about that. I am, however, going to install a trans cooler.

 

[UNIMOG-GUY]

Some plow manufacturers have airfoil designs that prevent this problem

 

[cucvrus]

I think I just had it to far up. It surprised me because of how cold it was out today. And at 60-65 that air is really cold. I just lowered it and it seemed to be fine. I also failed to mention I had a skid of salt in the bed that weighed 3200lbs. I 81 north from mm 90 is very hilly going north 4 exits. And I came up 645 N from Fredericksburg PA if anyone on here knows that route. Straight up and straight down into Pine Grove. It is all good i have the spreader and the plow hooked up and ready for the snow.

 

[acesneights1]

I have been running with the snow plow on the M1008 the last few days. I had a few flickers of the high temperature light while driving on I 81 north. It seems to just flicker and come on for a brief second. As I am driving I lowered the plow then it stayed out. I find it hard to believe that at 20 degrees and 60 MPH that the temperature light would come on. But it did. I am wondering how this same truck pulls a trailer in 95 degree weather on I 81 and never over heats. And how about the winter covers? IDK. But I had a funny thing happen a few years back. I sent a co-worker down I 81 with the plow on and he called me and ask me what the red sailboat light meant. Take a look at that light. If it just flickers it looks like a sail boat. I never thought of it till I looked at it and could see where one might refer to it as a sailboat in a sea of red. That was funny. He said it flickered a few times and went out. I laughed and told him it was the high temp light. He could not see the symbol I was referring to. Funny. I am going to take a look at the clutch fan. How would it be with the arctic front on?

I have to run with my plow just about hitting the ground and angled on the highway and my M1008 is lifted to boot. The plow blocks alot of air on the highway.

 

[acesneights1]

I plowed with my M1008(and still do, but now with NV4500) for atleast two years with no issues with the Th400. it's a good solid tranny. How long it lasts depends on how you drive it. Beat the balls off it, slam from Drive to Reverse alot and you will kill it fast. Try to push too much snow each time, again not good.Tranny coolers don't really help for plowing IMHO. I know I will catch crap for that statement but they do more good in hot weather towing situations as far as benefits to the tranny. Plowing is more of an abrubt pounding on parts. Plus when plowing it' generally pretty cold out . Just my .02. An NV4500 or SM465 will solve that problem permanently.

 

[mbavers]

I plowed with my M1008(and still do, but now with NV4500) for atleast two years with no issues with the Th400. it's a good solid tranny. How long it lasts depends on how you drive it. Beat the balls off it, slam from Drive to Reverse alot and you will kill it fast. Try to push too much snow each time, again not good.Tranny coolers don't really help for plowing IMHO. I know I will catch crap for that statement but they do more good in hot weather towing situations as far as benefits to the tranny. Plowing is more of an abrubt pounding on parts. Plus when plowing it' generally pretty cold out . Just my .02. An NV4500 or SM465 will solve that problem permanently.

Thanks for your info. Yes, I wish I had a standard shift. I've got one in my snowblower truck and like it, as I'm usually in first gear all the time. With the plow, I wonder if it might be a hassle shifting fast from first to second when pushing a load. In any case, the conversion would be too costly for me. I think my ideal would be a powerful gasoline engine with a four speed and just plow in second gear only.

 

[mbavers]

That looks like a great idea. Western doesn't seem to have one, but it seems the one shown could surely be adapted to any plow.

 

[mbavers]

Some plow manufacturers have airfoil designs that prevent this problem

That looks like a great idea. Western doesn't seem to have one, but it seems the one shown could surely be adapted to any plow.