• Steel Soldiers now has a few new forums, read more about it at: New Munitions Forums!

  • Microsoft MSN, Live, Hotmail, Outlook email users may not be receiving emails. We are working to resolve this issue. Please add support@steelsoldiers.com to your trusted contacts.

The 002 Started but....

Rapracing

Member
271
0
16
Location
Western Pennsylvania
I got all the filters changed, new oil and prepared to start. It took right off for me but as soon as I let off the starter the fuel silinoid rod drops back to the bottom turns the fuel off?? and it shuts off. Any ideas where I should start. This is my first time so please be gentle :oops:

It seems the hertz meter is working but possibly not the voltage meter. I haven't got it to run long enough to look but I didn't see it go off the bottom.
 

storeman

Well-known member
1,345
52
48
Location
Mathews County, VA
First preheat for 1 minute regardless of outside temp. Once it has started continue holding the start switch in the cranking position for 15-20 seconds. If it dies again, repeat. If repeating these steps doesn't solve the problem, you may have other issues. Ensure main breaker is off for starting.
Jerry
 

Rapracing

Member
271
0
16
Location
Western Pennsylvania
First preheat for 1 minute regardless of outside temp. Once it has started continue holding the start switch in the cranking position for 15-20 seconds. If it dies again, repeat. If repeating these steps doesn't solve the problem, you may have other issues. Ensure main breaker is off for starting.
Jerry
I just tried that. It still shuts off as soon as I release the starter. I checked and there is no voltage on the silinoid when in the run position. I assume there should be?

While doing what you mentioned above I was able to adjust the hz meter but the voltage meter shows no voltage even when turned clear up. I have a house fan and light plugged into the 15 amp recepticles and both of them come on when I flip the breaker so there is voltage. Maybe a bad meter?

Once I get it to run properly I can check that all out.
 

Triple Jim

Well-known member
1,373
277
83
Location
North Carolina
The oil pressure has to be high enough to make the low pressure shutoff switch close, and the high temperature shutoff switch has to be functioning correctly (closed) and the wiring to these switches has to be intact. Then when you do as Jerry above said and hold the switch in the start position until there is oil pressure, you will have power to the solenoid after you release the knob.

Since it's stopping when you release the switch even when you held it in "start" for a while, one of the above items most likely has a problem.
 

Rapracing

Member
271
0
16
Location
Western Pennsylvania
The oil pressure has to be high enough to make the low pressure shutoff switch close, and the high temperature shutoff switch has to be functioning correctly (closed) and the wiring to these switches has to be intact. Then when you do as Jerry above said and hold the switch in the start position until there is oil pressure, you will have power to the solenoid after you release the knob.

Since it's stopping when you release the switch even when you held it in "start" for a while, one of the above items most likely has a problem.
Awesome Guys :beer:

I pulled the wires off of the oil pressure sensor, checked the sensor and it checked okay. I cleaned up the terminals and put the wires back on and followed above directions and it is out there running right now.

Thanks so much!

I am sure I will be back for more advice.
 

Rapracing

Member
271
0
16
Location
Western Pennsylvania
Another question. I can only seem to get the voltage meter to register 130 volts. I have not turned the main breaker on. Does that have anything to do with it?

I don't recall what is says on the panel but I have the selector set on the last setting going clockwise. I believe that is the correct position for 120/240. I did switch it up to the one before that but had the same results.
 

Grega

Member
205
1
18
Location
St. Paul Nebraska.
Have you tried to adjust the voltage knob. My mep 002a does the same thing. Verified the voltage on the convience plug with a seperate volt meter at 123 volts. Upon close inspection, the trimmer adjustment on the voltmeter cover is broke. Will take it apart sometime and see if I can fix it.
 

Rapracing

Member
271
0
16
Location
Western Pennsylvania
Have you tried to adjust the voltage knob. My mep 002a does the same thing. Verified the voltage on the convience plug with a seperate volt meter at 123 volts. Upon close inspection, the trimmer adjustment on the voltmeter cover is broke. Will take it apart sometime and see if I can fix it.
Yes, I did and it responds to the adjustment but only goes to 130v. I didn't know if snapping the main breaker on would change the meter adjustment
 

Grega

Member
205
1
18
Location
St. Paul Nebraska.
With the vibrating nature of the mep 002a, it tends to wreck haveck on the gauges. Verify with a seperate volt meter. The main breaker dont have anything to do with the convencence receptle. I believe the last two positions on the voltage selector measure the single phase voltage
 

Rapracing

Member
271
0
16
Location
Western Pennsylvania
The last two settings are single phase. I am not so much concerned with the convenience plug. Voltage there is good. What I am wondering is why I don't seem to be able to get 240v to show on the meter when increasing the voltage with the rheostat.
 

Rapracing

Member
271
0
16
Location
Western Pennsylvania
Okay, so I think I may have found the problem. Went out to feed horses and stopped at the generator. I flipped the little door up by the main breaker and found an AC connection switch. It is set on 120. I missed that completely when reading the TM. I thought the only switch was on the control panel. If I put that on 120/240 will that solve my problem with the volt meter not reading 240?
 

Rapracing

Member
271
0
16
Location
Western Pennsylvania
Yes, that selects the output.
So upon further review of the TM I read the following Warning. Since it is currently set on 120v do I need to do anything with this?

WARNING

When selecting 120v, 1ph unit is in 2 wire configuration. A situation can/may exist in allowing a double fault to occur. To eliminate this possibility the reconnection switch will be rewired by using AWG#4 wire jumper between terminals #LO & #6 of section g. Figure 2-2 Reconnection Switch

If so what is section g? I cannot find it in the TM
 

Rapracing

Member
271
0
16
Location
Western Pennsylvania
I think I am good on the previous question.

I put the switch on 120/240 and adjusted to 60hz and 240v on the meter. I checked the 15amp plugs and had 123.4v. I checked L1 and had 123.4v and L3 had 121.1v. Is the difference there okay?

ETA: I will adjust the voltage down a bit before putting it into the house.
 
Top
AdBlock Detected

We get it, advertisements are annoying!

Sure, ad-blocking software does a great job at blocking ads, but it also blocks useful features of our website like our supporting vendors. Their ads help keep Steel Soldiers going. Please consider disabling your ad blockers for the site. Thanks!

I've Disabled AdBlock
No Thanks