The M1009's at auction

[CrazyIrishman]

I'm more than a little new to auctions in general and military surplus in particular.

I hope someone could give me the heads up on the M1009's .

Last night I saw several M1009's listed at the starting price of $150.00! Now even I know they're going to sell for more.

One of the questions I have is what kind of price would a M1009 that is pretty much turn key,(but might need minor work to pass inspection) bring at auction?

Is the mileage listed, original, or after a rebuild?

I might check more into the necessary paperwork and go from there. I've seen a few from pictures that look nice, but that only tells you but so much!


Thanks for your help!


CI

 

[thedeliverator]

My :

If you really truly want something you can hop in and drive away, do some minor PM and keep driving, don't buy from GL right away. Sure, you can find good runners on there sometimes. If you can preview the actual truck, or have someone do it for you, you can get a cherry specimen, though you'll pay a bit more for it. If you can't preview and are looking at photos only, you could get stuck with something that will need more than fluids and filters, and could be missing major components. Not saying it will happen that way, but it might.

Depending on the condition and location, a complete rolling M1009 will probably go for ~$1k to $2k. I think the last three we had come up to auction in Santa Fe were around the $1300 mark. I didn't get to start them but they looked complete enough to put batteries in and fire up, if not to drive home. On your side of the country, things may be different.

Mileage listed is as it is on the odometer.

I paid just under $2500 for my 1009 through an eBay listing, drive 700 miles home the same day with just a blown fuse. I always tell people the best bet isn't GL; it's the classifieds here, Craigslist, and eBay.

 

[mkcoen]

I've bought 2 1009s this year. The first one out of Anniston, AL needed batteries and after about 2000 miles in 1 month, u-joints. The second one came out of Oklahoma City, OK and got forklifted. It had 1 bad motormount that dropped onto the fuel line and crushed it, a bent steering tube, 1 bad battery and worst of all, a busted transfer case. The pictures won't show the damage and they rarely give a good representation of the degree of rust on the vehicle. Also, in the case of fork lift damage, the photos may have been taken at a different location before the damage.

If you have a GL site close to you where you can preview the vehicle then you might get a decent one by checking all of these types of things. If you do preview, take lots of pictures so if you come back and the fender is smashed in from some dweeb with a fork lift you might be able to complain to someone. If you don't have a site near by but still want to go the auction route, someone from SS will usually help you.

Over the last 6 months the highest 1009 I've seen sell (and I haven't watched all of them) went for about $2500. I paid $1300 for one of mine and $1500 for the other one.

Even with the issues that turned up on mine I've been fairly satisfied with what I've gotten. I was able to get my money back out of the 1st one even with shipping, new batteries and u-joints. The last one I bought I intend to keep because it is fairly rust free and has a good interior. I was also able to find a NOS transfer case from another SS member for a good price. To me, half the fun of having one is getting to work on it which is something I can't really say on any new vehicle I've bought since 1990.

 

[realm]

I spent more on mine than anyone would dare around here, $3K from a Craigslist ad, but I'm not a haggler, the guy was great and is somewhere on here and answered my questions even after I bought it, and it was in the best shape of a CUCV I've seen. No rust, fresh paint inside and out, no dents, transmission fluid and oil was newly changed, new air filter, and everything works. As a plus it came with an AM/FM Radio and 2 Bose speakers that sound as good quality wise as my new Maxima. Does great to drown out the diesel.

Sure I had a little coolant leak and valve cover leak, but nothing serious.
2.5" lift and 33x12.50's going on next week.

 

[HeadWizard]

It all depends on the condition of the vehicle. I sold one for $3200, but it was fully road ready. Have another that will probably go for more based on condition. Just keep looking.

 

[NDT]

I would say that mileage showing on CUCV odometers can be considered correct. CUCV's never went though a depot overhaul or "reset" (cool new term I learned here). I bought 2 1009's last year by bottom feeding on GL, they ran me about $500 ea, one had a busted transfer also and both had rocker panel rust, forklift baptism and CARC 1/4" thick. But they cranked right up and run great! Don't be afraid of the doggy looking trucks, they need love too!

 

[CrazyIrishman]

The diesel engines that are in these critters, are they "real" diesels or V8 conversions?

I recall something I was told a number of years ago about GM V8 diesels in that some diesels were purpose built as a diesel and others were converted from gasoline.

Never did investigate it but it did stick with me. If I had to take a guess I would say they're real since they went to the military.


One thing I have to take into consideration about these vehicles is would they lend theirself to being easily modified for a disabled driver?

I have arthritis in both hips & lower back and can't walk all that great. I really like the M35 alot but I think its impractical.



Thanks,

CI

 

[JohnFire]

You are correct in your assumption. These diesels were built from the ground up to be diesel engines.

 

[mkcoen]

One thing I have to take into consideration about these vehicles is would they lend theirself to being easily modified for a disabled driver?

I have arthritis in both hips & lower back and can't walk all that great.

I have MS and bought my 1009 specifically to drive daily. Since I'm losing a lot of strength and coordination in my legs and arms I had to have something that was an automatic and had power steering and power brakes. Since this is a full size vehicle it can be easily modified for hand controls and other assistance devices as well as room in the back for a "crane" style chair lift. The only thing I'm going to have to modify immediatly is adding air conditioning and that's easy enough to handle.

Because it is a full size vehicle you may have a concern about getting in and out of it with arthritis but I would think adding a step (painted to match the camo of course) would take care of that.

 

[colomil]

If you have a means to tow a M1009 from a GL site, by all means bid. Set your max bid based on the assumption that:
1) The truck in the photos may not be the actual truck
2) More forklift damage will happen to the truck
3) Parts will be missing that were present in the photo
4) The GL site is only open a few days a week and picking up a truck will take 4+ hours.
5) Even if the ad says "driven in" or "runs", it probably does not run now.

A safe bet is to bid based on scrap value. It is hard to go wrong, even if you end up with a clunker.

If you want a nice clean road ready M1009 with a title, buy from a private party. There seems to always be a few for sale on this site.

 

[ecivic]

If you want a nice clean road ready M1009 with a title, buy from a private party. There seems to always be a few for sale on this site.

I agree... I bought mine for cheap, a lot of parts missing but I think that is part of the fun, do the research on the vehicle you are bidding on. If you want it running, ready to go, buy from someone else (MAX price should be $5,000). Want an Adventure, buy one from GL (max price should be $1,000), then there is the luck factor ($700 and nothings wrong, 200 dollars in batteries) and then drive off into the diesel sunset.