Thermostat / heat

[sermis]

Any way to lower the operating temp on a 6.2. 1990 M998 The fan cycles somewhere above 205 / 210. Noise and loss of power and heat are my issues. Thermostat in the truck says A180 but it looks like the motor is running 205 - 210. I would like to get the temp down some so the fan doesn't have to cycle. Was trying to find replacement thermostat but nothing in civi world but 195 listed as exchange on a 6.2. I was thinking something in the 160 range.
I was thinking could you drill a hole in the thermostat flange? Maybe 1/8 or 1/4 to allow a little more water flow? Would it lower operating temp?

 

[Squirt-Truck]

Cooler is not better. Engine heat is still going to outrun the radiator even if you start at 160, except when running along the highway and even then it will in hot conditions.
If your current thermostat is open at 195 and you are still seeing 210, good bet that you will see 210 with a 160 therm.
Remember the radiator sheds less heat at 160 than at 195.

 

[86humv]

Sounds like it all works fine.
If the system works as your does, then its good to go.
Its hot season .
It won't kick in as much in the winter.

 

[Action]

get used to the noise and power loss when the fan is on. Make sure it is clean between the radiator and oil cooler. Straighten any bent fins.

 

[papakb]

If your system is cycling like that be thankful, they can be a real PITA to troubleshoot and repair. Diesel engines like to run hot and are more efficient at higher temps so your actually losing efficiency by running it at lower temps. If you want to get rid of the fan clutch / power loss issue Flex-O-lite makes a 24 volt, variable speed fan controller and I've seen 24v fans that could be installed beneath the cooling stack making them invisible to a casual observer. Disable the fan clutch and let it freewheel but keep it in place for appearance. You'll need to contact Flex-O-lite directly for the part number as it's not easy to find on their website.

Kurt

 

[Augi]

Some H1 guys did tests with electric fans over on HML a long time ago. Ultimately you need the same amount of power to move the same amount of air over the radiator.

The electric fans draw from the alternator and the alternator draws from the engine. All you do is change the accessory that is loading the engine.

Maybe you can make the electric path more efficient so it loads the engine less for the same air flow. Maybe not.

In reality I think people realize less power loss because the electric fans they install are smaller than the fan they replaced. They move less air, thus use less power. I recall one of the HML guys having an overheating problem because their new electric fans couldn't keep up.

The bottom line is nothing is free.


Augi