This battery disconnect stout enough?

[Banshee365]

http://www.jcwhitney.com/wcsstore/jcwhitney/images/imagecache/G_16122G_CL_1.jpg

Deuces is draining it's batteries over a week, just started doing that. I'm guessing maye the diodes in the alternator are bad or something which is causing the current draw. That switch is rated to 500A burst and 125 continuous. Truck has 2 newer 6TL's. Think that switch is tough enough or should I find something else? Saw what I think was that exact switch on a buddies deuce and it was nice and easy and clean looking.

-Kelly

 

[rosco]

Probably its heavy enough. I use a different style that is used on heavy equipment. It can be mounted through a panel. If you use the fusible link in the one shown, it will still drain things.

Lee in Alaska

 

[yellobronc]

There are much better alternatives that even have keys that could be mounted in your floorboard above the battery tray. They would be much easier to deal with. Search the web for battery disconnects or go to your local battery store to get one.

 

[bottleworks]

Why not repair the drain?

 

[cranetruck]

Yes, hunt down the problem and to extend the life of the batteries add a maintainer/charger to keep them "topped off", which will prevent sulfation.
The typical current draw when starting is about 350 amps, perhaps twice that in cold weather.
Another little note, the drain is very likely not the starter circuit, so perhaps a smaller switch can be added when you find the drain and only switch it off until fixed.

 

[mhb285]

I'm on my third one of those. You gor to make sure that the "key" is screwed in tight... Otherwise is will melt when you try to start it. And they only last about a year at most before they mealt down anyhow, There are not made for 24v or the load of starting...
Mike

 

[Recovry4x4]

Would it be smarter to install that in the dogbone?

 

[cranetruck]

Would it be smarter to install that in the dogbone?

Current draw remains the same. Like I said, the problem is most likely not the starter circuit, so why not use a smaller switch in a specific circuit and not risk a melt down.

 

[Banshee365]

I guess the first place to look for the draw may be the alternator. I'll check out the TM and trouble shoot it via the manual. If it's not the alternator I wouldn't really know where to start expect maybe testing the acc switch and 3-lever switch as well. Not many things that it could be, I'm really thinking it's the diodes but I guess we'll see. My multimeter is cheapo so hopefully it gives me correct readings. The horn button has alway's been missing so it shouldn't be anything in the horn.

-Kelly

 

[Trango]

I use the cheapo disconnects from Napa, which are made out of lead. I know it's just a matter of time until I don't screw the key down hard enough and I get a short while starting (which wreaks havoc on the interface between the two halves), so I just carry a spare. At $8, they're cheap enough to not really worry about (aside from the hassle factor of changing them out).

 

[Elwenil]

Can't go wrong with overkill:

Clicky

 

[WillWagner]

Try here,
http://www.flamingriver.com/index.c...ategory_ID=133/home_id=76/mode=cat/cat133.htm
Or here,
http://www.colehersee.com/catalog_top/index.htm

 

[hndrsonj]

Here is what I have mounted between the seats. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Batt...006QQitemZ160262117899QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWDVW

 

[houdel]

If you really want a heavy duty battery disconnect, try s fire equipment parts distributor. Most every fire truck or ambulance is equipped with a battery disconnect. Most fire/ems vehicles are equipped with two batteries also, and the fire service disconnects usually have "Off", " Battery A", "Battery B" and "Both" positions just for more thrills. Be prepared to spend big bucks though!

 

[wdbtchr]

I've got one of those in slightly used/melted condition cheap. Let the smoke out on the second start.

 

[cranetruck]

To follow up on my earlier suggestion, you can get away with a much lower capacity switch if you install it in the #10 wire and possibly #4 (from the regulator) if you suspect that the alternator/generator is causing a problem. It's best to leave the starter system alone and not introduce additional potential voltage drops in that circuit IMHO.

 

[oifvet]

There are not made for 24v or the load of starting...

Agreed!

I used one of these on an old (12 volt) pick-up truck. It's a wonderful thing. I had to put a red magnet on the ignition (key) switch to remind me to tighten the thing down before I went to crank it. Otherwise, I popped that little fuse in the link. (I had a handful in the glovebox).

The actual contact that the knob makes is a VERY small area and would definitely cook when cranking a 24V truck starter.

Ssssssmokey!!