Thoughts on removing A-frame drawbar on M101 A2

[Ressoldier]

I am thinking of removing the A-frame drawbar on my M101 A2 and making my own tongue. I will be using this as an expedition style camp trailer on off-road trails. I am already planning on swapping to a Dexter 3500# trailer axle with electric brakes and hand parking brakes(original levers). I am also going to be using a Max Coupler instead of the Pintle/Lunette system. So now my thoughts are if I am removing the surge brake system and Lunette why not just unbolt the entire A-frame tongue and make my own with the new coupler.

Here is what I would build in its place. I would use reciever tube full length front to rear going through the cross members of the trailer frame. Then from front the cross member make a trapazoid to support a tongue box and add lateral support for the tongue. The Max coupler slides into a reciever tube so need to mount that anyways. The thought behind having it go front to back is that if I get stuck on the trail and need to be pulled backwards, it would be one continuous connection front to rear and to tow vehicle. This will also give a little better clearance being a few inches taller.

The option if I keep original tongue would be to remove the surge brake system and then have to fabricate a plate to bolt in place with a length of reciever tube on it for the new coupler.

Please give constructive input on this idea.

 

[quickfarms]

Sounds like a lot of work.

I would trade you the A2 surge brake for the A1 setup.

If you ground the flats of of the A1 it would rotate and eliminate the binding.

Another oprtion would be to use the M416 eye which will rotate.

 

[glcaines]

Ditto on a lot of work. I would leave the tongue alone, keep the surge brakes and either change to a rotating lunette or even easier, use a rotating pintle on the receiver. You can get an offset for the pintle hook to make your 101 pull relatively level. Saves a lot of work and won't bind . The only advantage I see for the Max Coupler is that it is quieter. I doubt the Max Coupler is as strong as the original MS setup. My trailer has shackles on the back. They aren't huge, but I have pulled the trailer and my coupled deuce backwards up a slight incline with a chain hooked to both shackles without problem for about 200 feet. I got into a place where I couldn't go any further and had to back out. My john Deer tractor pulling the trailer / deuce combo did the steering for me.

 

[Ressoldier]

Currently it sits nice and level with my tow vehicle. The max coupler is quieter because there is no play in it. The lunette Pintle combo can get sloppy(noise) and the jerking motion can add to drive train and frame wear on the TV. Also if you notice the factory Lunette is in line with the frame. Not sure about all the extra work. To put my reciever tube fron to rear it would require me cutting holes in 5 cross members and then welding in place. Yes I would add some gussets to help also. Even if I keep original A-frame I would still need to weld support brackets for a tongue box.

 

[harleyhouse]

Get the plasma cutter out and start cutting.
The frames on those trailers are strong, Take the box off and make it easier on your self.
I like the tube all the way through but I would say to the middle of the trailer would work too!

It would raise the tongue mount up higher and be a cleaner look.
Keep pictures posted of the work.

Go with electric brakes and ditch the surge system.