to fuze or not to fuze - rat's nest issues

[maddawg308]

Have a rat's nest of electrical wire on the front of the firewall, I believe it is the source of all my light problems. Thanks to splitters and a lot of bubbafications, the previous user of my truck had about 5 things running off of 2 fuze blocks. That's why I believe my turn signals, warning blinkers, and brake lights don't work. I have already checked grounds, and swapped out the flasher box, to no avail, so I feel the remaining issue is the handful of wires polluting the rear driver's side of my engine compartment.

A question I came up with in looking at the whole mess was, why are fuze blocks required for this stuff anyways? I don't think lights should draw enough amps to overload the circuit by themselves, unless paired with other electrical items in parallel.

Would it be easier to feed all non-blinker related items, say the electric wipers, spotlight, convoy light, etc., from a common feed buss bar, and have the individual feed lines for each item running off to their own inline fuze (a common fuze type, not the firewall mounted type) and then their respective switches?

Any help is appreciated. I have a basic understanding of electrical power, but in looking up electrical issues on this board, these military trucks sure are a hat's toss when it comes to figuring out issues....

 

[cranetruck]

Mike, the 24 volt feed from the battery is wire #10. It goes to the "horn" circuit breaker first and then on to the light switch (wire #11 and #15 now).
The light switch or 3-lever switch has a built-in CB to protect from short circuits in any of the light circuits.
If you want to tap in new lights etc, go to wire #10 and add circuit breakers (or fuses, if you prefer) for each new circuit.