Well I've changed all the rubber vacuum lines and i cleaned the modulator on the side of the IP and tried it in everv position it will go in, and i checked the side of the transmission for the brass adj screw that i heard you could adj but mine doesnt have one, and it still shifts at 32 1st to 2nd and about 52-54 from 2nd to 3rd, the rpms seems to really be on up there and i dont think thats good on it, any help would be greatly appreciated.
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transmission question
- Thread starter BigDuck
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Ken_86gt
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Have you checked that there is actually vacuum being produced?
dstang97
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I was told you need to have roughley 13 Hg's out of the regulator
shovelheadi
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Harbor freight Autozone Napa Pep Boys
you can get a hand pump for $20 at Harbour freight and connect directly to the vac line on the trans.
drive about 20mph and pump the vac. it should change . if it pull trans fluid, then you know the accumulator is junk.
it can also be stuck.
you can get a hand pump for $20 at Harbour freight and connect directly to the vac line on the trans.
drive about 20mph and pump the vac. it should change . if it pull trans fluid, then you know the accumulator is junk.
it can also be stuck.
shovelheadi
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I meant the modulator would be bad if it pulls trans fluid.
CUCV85
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You mean cleaned the Vacuum Regulator Valve on the side of the IP, other than taking apart REAL CAREFUL and applying wd40 there isn't much you can do other than replacing the rubber lines and/or bypassing the hard lines completely to the transmission as I did. Replace the Transmission Modulator Valve 11.00 MD-48 AAP, it will have the brass screw and back it out a couple of turns to shift a little quicker - well quite quicker. I don't tow so I backed mine out like 4 complete turns.
Here is a message that I posted about 2 weeks ago. It might help you with your transmission shifting problem.
I’m posting this message to thank everyone on this thread for sharing their knowledge. Your advice and tips helped me fix my late shifting problem with my M1009. My M1009 was shifting from first to second between 25 and 30 MPH. It shifted from second to third between 50 and 55 MPH.
Here is what I did to fix my problem:
(Refer to TM 9-2320-289-20, section 3-21 “Transmission Vacuum Hose Replacement”)
1. Remove the air cleaner and block off the intake manifold to prevent foreign object damage. I removed and replaced these vacuum hoses (item #1, #3, and #5). Vacuum hose #5 is actually two different size hoses spliced together with connector #6. My old hoses looked pretty bad!
2. I took the M1009 for a test drive and it still shifted late.
3. With the M1009 running, I disconnected hose #5 from the transmission vacuum valve (item #9). I placed my thumb over the end of the hose to see if there was suction. Since there was suction, I figured that my vacuum pump (item #2) was probably okay. I decided to bypass the transmission vacuum valve (item #9) by connecting hose #5 coming from the vacuum pump (item #2) directly to the metal pipe that leads down to the vacuum modulator on the side of the transmission.
4. I took the M1009 for a test drive and it shifted normally. This told me that my vacuum modulator that is mounted on the side of the transmission was probably okay.
5. I removed the transmission vacuum valve (item #9) from the fuel injection pump. (Refer to TM 9-2320-289-20, section 3-21.1 “Transmission Vacuum Valve Replacement”)
6. Valve Cleaning Process - I removed the plastic access cover on the side of the valve and soaked the parts in some Simple Green cleaner for about an hour. I rinsed the parts and worked the mechanism to ensure that it moved freely. I then soaked the valve in some WD-40 for about and hour while working the spring loaded mechanism periodically. I blotted the valve dry with some paper towels. I used a can of compressed air to blow out the plastic nipple fittings.
7. I put the plastic access cover back on the valve and mounted it back on the fuel injection pump.
8. I took the M1009 for a test drive and it shifted great! My M1009 was shifting from first to second around 15 MPH. It shifted from second to third around 35 MPH.
9. I decided to see if I could lower my shift points even further by adjusting the position of the valve. After a couple of attempts, I got my M1009 shifting from first to second around 13 MPH. It shifted from second to third around 32 MPH. I was happy with this setting.
When I was replacing my vacuum hoses I noticed that the rubber connector (TM 9-2320-289-20, section 3-21, item # was cracked and dry rotted. So, I connected my new vacuum hoses directly to the plastic nipples on the vacuum valve. This worked okay even though there wasn’t much clearance between the 2 vacuum hoses installed on the plastic nipples. Does anyone know where I might find a new rubber connector?
Thanks again for the great tips and advice!
Jeff
I’m posting this message to thank everyone on this thread for sharing their knowledge. Your advice and tips helped me fix my late shifting problem with my M1009. My M1009 was shifting from first to second between 25 and 30 MPH. It shifted from second to third between 50 and 55 MPH.
Here is what I did to fix my problem:
(Refer to TM 9-2320-289-20, section 3-21 “Transmission Vacuum Hose Replacement”)
1. Remove the air cleaner and block off the intake manifold to prevent foreign object damage. I removed and replaced these vacuum hoses (item #1, #3, and #5). Vacuum hose #5 is actually two different size hoses spliced together with connector #6. My old hoses looked pretty bad!
2. I took the M1009 for a test drive and it still shifted late.
3. With the M1009 running, I disconnected hose #5 from the transmission vacuum valve (item #9). I placed my thumb over the end of the hose to see if there was suction. Since there was suction, I figured that my vacuum pump (item #2) was probably okay. I decided to bypass the transmission vacuum valve (item #9) by connecting hose #5 coming from the vacuum pump (item #2) directly to the metal pipe that leads down to the vacuum modulator on the side of the transmission.
4. I took the M1009 for a test drive and it shifted normally. This told me that my vacuum modulator that is mounted on the side of the transmission was probably okay.
5. I removed the transmission vacuum valve (item #9) from the fuel injection pump. (Refer to TM 9-2320-289-20, section 3-21.1 “Transmission Vacuum Valve Replacement”)
6. Valve Cleaning Process - I removed the plastic access cover on the side of the valve and soaked the parts in some Simple Green cleaner for about an hour. I rinsed the parts and worked the mechanism to ensure that it moved freely. I then soaked the valve in some WD-40 for about and hour while working the spring loaded mechanism periodically. I blotted the valve dry with some paper towels. I used a can of compressed air to blow out the plastic nipple fittings.
7. I put the plastic access cover back on the valve and mounted it back on the fuel injection pump.
8. I took the M1009 for a test drive and it shifted great! My M1009 was shifting from first to second around 15 MPH. It shifted from second to third around 35 MPH.
9. I decided to see if I could lower my shift points even further by adjusting the position of the valve. After a couple of attempts, I got my M1009 shifting from first to second around 13 MPH. It shifted from second to third around 32 MPH. I was happy with this setting.
When I was replacing my vacuum hoses I noticed that the rubber connector (TM 9-2320-289-20, section 3-21, item # was cracked and dry rotted. So, I connected my new vacuum hoses directly to the plastic nipples on the vacuum valve. This worked okay even though there wasn’t much clearance between the 2 vacuum hoses installed on the plastic nipples. Does anyone know where I might find a new rubber connector?
Thanks again for the great tips and advice!
Jeff
tm america
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does it have kick down at full throttle?you could have a governor sticking or a modulator valve sticking .or even a kick down soloniod that is sticking open .that vacume seems a little low but it could be adjusted to work with that .if it has kick down its not the kick down sol. i would pull the gov out and hold it with the gear going up push the weights together and watch the gov valve it should go up and down when the weights are moved if not clean it and free it up .if its free pull the modulator out and make sure the modulator valve is free its the valve thats in the case behind the modulator alot of times the case will get a ridge in it making it stick.ussually its the gov