Transmission to Transfer Case Driveshaft, how to grease?

Mos68x

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How do y'all get your grease guns onto the fitting on the u-joints for that Driveshaft? I've got one of the small grease guns, but I still can't get it on them? Is there a trick I forgot? Those and the ones between the tandem axles is all I have left for this semi-annual PMCS lube. I wasn't havin any luck findin any info on a search so I hope this isn't a repeat post.
 
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lindsey97

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I put mine in neutral on the transfer case shift selector and rotate it. Have not removed a bolt, but that is an excellent idea.

I would like to find some grade 8 bolts with a 12 point head, upon which the head is tapered and smaller, thus giving clearance for the grease gun tip.
 

Mos68x

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You can take one of the flange bolts out and get a grease gun on it.

That hadn't even crossed my mind lol thanks! Of course that means I'll have to find the WP covering the replacement of those I-joints so that I can get the torque for it.


I put mine in neutral on the transfer case shift selector and rotate it. Have not removed a bolt, but that is an excellent idea.

I would like to find some grade 8 bolts with a 12 point head, upon which the head is tapered and smaller, thus giving clearance for the grease gun tip.
Nuetral? Where do point the grease fitting then? That Driveshaft seems straight as an arrow between the transmission and the transfer case so I fail to see how that works (I'm not saying it don't, just that I don't understand)

12pt heads would've a great idea as well, I'm sure McMaster Carr has them lol




I really need to make a maintenance pad so that I'll be more inclined to crawl under the rear tandem for its stuff, this crawling in the dirt is for the birds
 

lindsey97

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place the transfer case in neutral, wheels chocked of course, so the driveshaft will spin freely, then you can rotate it to get the zerk in the position that you want it.
 

Swamp Donkey

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I used to put it neutral like Lindsey mentions. I use a modified tip now though. I took a bastard file and made 2 flat spots opposite each other on the grease gun tip. Doesn't matter what position it's in now.
 

Mos68x

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I may end up having to try Kens trick, it's not that I can't get to those fittings, it's that I can't get the gun tip past the bolts that hold those u-joints on. SDs new tip idea would work too, just not sure if mine has enough meat on that part of the grease gun.
 

Cape Coastie

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I used one of these and also one with a 90 degree tip from McMaster Carr. They snap in to the grease gun and work real well.
 

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acme66

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They don't bend much if at all so once a year with a nice thick grease is sufficient. I can't imagine other than water rusting it out it would be possible to wear out the joint.

Ken

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simp5782

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Needle type attachment. They do wear out fairly easy and cost around $ 380ea. I thought the A2 trucks had the longer jackshaft than the A1 tiny son of a gun. Also have the transfer case balancer

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Mos68x

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I used one of these and also one with a 90 degree tip from McMaster Carr. They snap in to the grease gun and work real well.
They don't bend much if at all so once a year with a nice thick grease is sufficient. I can't imagine other than water rusting it out it would be possible to wear out the joint.

Id rather stick to the LO which calls for 3k/3mo, if the DA went from every 6mo to every 3mo I'm sure it was for a good reason. Granted I'm using MolyB high pressure grease which is probably overkill but that's fine with me. It's cheap anyways, far cheaper than a new u-joint is for sure.
Needle type attachment. They do wear out fairly easy and cost around $ 380ea. I thought the A2 trucks had the longer jackshaft than the A1 tiny son of a gun. Also have the transfer case balancer
So, to use the needle attachment, you just stick into the center where the check ball is on the zert fitting??
 

Csm Davis

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Id rather stick to the LO which calls for 3k/3mo, if the DA went from every 6mo to every 3mo I'm sure it was for a good reason. Granted I'm using MolyB high pressure grease which is probably overkill but that's fine with me. It's cheap anyways, far cheaper than a new u-joint is for sure.


So, to use the needle attachment, you just stick into the center where the check ball is on the zert fitting??
Yes on where to put needle, but the A2 should be easy to get to.

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Mos68x

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but the A2 should be easy to get to.
I wish it was

IMG_7611.jpgIMG_7610.jpg

I dont like like having to remove the bolt, but aside from getting that needle attachment I don't see any other way to get to those grease fittings.

You sure you're not thinkin of that lower u-joint that goes to the front diff Jeff?

IMG_7612.jpg

I got those done already, in fact the only fittings that are left to do are the ones for the aforementioned driveshaft and the ones for the rear bogey (I really didn't feel like crawling around in the dirt/sand to get to them just yet)
 

red

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Moss68x grab a set of coveralls. Normally I work on my wrecker in a gravel lot and have no issues dragging myself around with coveralls on. Hot yes but when the dark blue coveralls look completely tan, worth it haha.
 

Mos68x

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LMAO point taken, I hate using mine because of how hot they are, but it not just getting dirty...it's the **** cactus thorns that seem to be everywhere, even where there aren't ANY CACTUS! I was sitting doing the PMCS inspections and somehow found a few, extremely irritating. I don't mind all the other types but I HATE the prickly pear ones, my property is just infested with them.
 

Cape Coastie

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Hey Mos, the grease gun attachments are called snap in grease gun nozzle tips and are supposedly used for the flush style grease fitting. They are different than the needle type as those are used to pierce rubber or other soft seal to get the grease in. The ones I use have a small beveled tip that seats against the check ball hole. You need to hold it pretty tight against fitting but does get grease into the u-joint pretty well. Just watch when pumping and if you can't get it into one of the fittings use the one on the other side of the u-joint. Grease goes to all ends using either fitting.
 

Mos68x

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I don't know why you admins bother to make an already long thread title EVEN LONGER! It won't show up in Today's post area full length so why waste your time?!
 

frank8003

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Another old thread needing information, [1969 Kaiser Jeep Deuce M35A2 W/W]
Yes, this is a five ton thread but I thought this applicable, Not sure, I was wrong on a Tuesday one time.
I am a shifting fool and the transfer case shift lever was vibrating, didn't feel right.
Saw an interesting post mentioning jackshaft bolts loose.
Searched finding only mention of jackshaft in TM 9-2320-361--24-1 WP 0006-00-6
Wanting to perform proper grease PM's and get to the transfer case air shift solenoid and clutch lube points I ended up finding information on tunnel removal decided to just refurbish all that too.
Today I find old thread on greasing, noting the need for some special things to grease certain points with, besides laying in the dirt and working in the dark upside down.

Heck with all that. Just pull the tunnel covers, find all the loose bolts/nuts, power clean with Dawn and HF pressure washer, engine running and all in neutral, the jackshaft goes around slow, worked good.
Working from the top just used my flex head grease gun with GAA without problems. Re-torqued all the loose fasteners, half were backed off. Replaced tunnels with all the proper fasteners using my power clutch drill and now good to go. No more noise or vibrations.
No problems with access to grease fittings.
Apparently it was time to do the LO PM's and tighten all those "lock" nuts.
The grease gun and GAA will be for sale in the classifieds soon.

IMG_1340.jpgIMG_1338.jpgIMG_1351.jpgIMG_1354.jpgIMG_1355.jpgjackshaft.jpg

jackshaft.jpgIMG_4740.jpg
 
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74M35A2

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I used to put it neutral like Lindsey mentions. I use a modified tip now though. I took a bastard file and made 2 flat spots opposite each other on the grease gun tip. Doesn't matter what position it's in now.
You just like to say the word "bastard". Twice now! Ha.
 
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