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Truck dies/starts hard

Earth

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Corinth Vermont
My shop van has been a bit of a project running wise since i got it out of Fort Drum in March. It's a very nice truck with lots of new parts and tires, and I want to get it running right.

Here's what's up. To begin with it wouldn't fire up on its own. I changed all the filters. drained the fuel tank and put in new diesel with cetane booster. Then I replaced most of the fuel lines. I also increased the power by backing out the jet on the IP. I got it where it would run fine, but only if it got a snort of either to begin with.

I went back to work on it yesterday because when I used it for the first time in the woods--it has all the logging tools in it--it bogged down going up a hill. I had started it with a shot of either, and drove several miles into the woods. Going up a grade, it just gave out power wise and stalled. It started back up, but ran rough.

Yesterday, I changed the 2nd and 3rd filters again, checked for any air leaks,
and verified that the plunger was going up and down--the pencil danced. I then drove it on the road for a few miles and it did the lack of power thing again but this time coming down grade in 4th at about 40mph--it just kind of died. I popped it back running and had to limp home as it runs rough after it dies.

It's a non turbo White multifuel. It gets fuel and air. Any ideas?

P.S. The good news is that I also got two M35A2s and a 5 ton this year and they run fine .

Thank You
Tom
 

Barrman

Well-known member
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Check the fuel line running under the radiator on the frame rail. They get smushed on GL lots sometimes. It reads to me as a fuel problem. When you open the bleeder above the secondary filters with the engine running, does fuel fly all over the place or just dribble?
 

doghead

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Stalling when warm, and hard starting are two symptoms of a worn out Hydraulic Head. I would eliminate all other possibilities first. Is your in tank lift pump good? Have you tested fuel spressure at the filters, and after the boost pump?
 

Earth

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Doghead,

The in-tank pump is pushing fuel through the filters. I haven't checked fuel pressure. I'll do a search for past discussions on checking the pressure.

Thanks
 

Earth

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Corinth Vermont
Well I'm confident fuel is getting to the IP, so it certainly seems like the IP is the culprit. It is a 2LDT-465-1C on a White LD 465 1C. NA

Should I fix it, or get a take off? or a rebuilt?

I plan to keep this truck for as long as I'm able to stand up and take nourishment, so I want to do it right.

Thanks
Tom
 

Earth

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ctmustang,

I would say yes. I followed what has been discussed here--out for more, in for less. Thinned down a 7/16th wrench for the inside, and gave it a bit more fuel. I also played around with a whole lot more fuel and even less fuel before I tightened it back down. It pretty much didn't change anything, lending credence to the theory something is FUBAR in the IP.
 

Earth

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So, can I put it back together? What should I expect as to the scope of this repair?

Is there a place that does rebuilds on these specifically?

I'm glad this problem is getting narrowed down--it is a bright side to a very miserable and wet period here in Vermont
 

Earth

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Corinth Vermont
I am not sure how to lift the hydraulic head up and off. After eliminating other possibilities I'm Taking it off. All the lines are disassembled and the 4 nuts are off. It doesn't want to lift up so there must be a trick? I'm looking at TM-9-2815-210-34-2 and find IP stuff but not hydraulic head specific illustrations. Also, anybody know who might have these?

thanks
[FONT=Verdana,Arial,Helvetica][/FONT]
 

doghead

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You need to position the HH timing marks correctly,to remove it. Search for hydraulic head removal, I think it has been posted before. There is a cheap Chinese copy available(takes some time to get them).
 

Earth

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Location
Corinth Vermont
I used a bar to turn the shaft between tranny and transfer to line up the red marked tooth on the gear. Then the head slides right up and off. I guess I was hoping for chunks of metal, but it is in one piece. What I did find was the Tee on the side of the head (left side as you face the motor side) had the spring below the needle and it was crushed up against the orifice. i can't seem to find a drawing, but it would seem the spring goes between the needle and the hollow ended bolt?

So now I'm not exactly sure the head is bad. I need at least a new tee assembly. Does anybody have a head? Or ideas?

Thanks
Tom
 

gimpyrobb

dumpsterlandingfromorbit!
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I got your PM and just looked. I don't have that piece, cept on a complete motor. If you need it to get your truck running, I could lend it to you, but hate to break up a complete motor. Let me know if you can't find one.
 

Earth

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Corinth Vermont
I've been working on this truck, and need to ask for ideas from you guys. As Gimpy says, there are some "real smart cookies" here at SS.

Anyways, I put on a brand new HH, and bypassed the FDC. Still didn't want to fire up on its own (just a bit of ether needed), and lacked power. Then I put on a complete IP from a running truck. Runs better when started, but still refuses to fire on its own--a squirt of ether required. Starts on its own when up to temp, but most certainly lacking power. When you stand next to the truck as it idles, it sounds great. Smoking normally for a NA. I know the timing is on the money, and can't think of what to do next. Beautiful truck, and I really want to get it running right. Something electric? Valves need adjusting? The only thing I can think of is that because it came without a first filter, crap got pushed up the line towards the booster pump. It gets fuel, but maybe its not enough? (the line across the frame is not crushed, but it could be blocked) I'm going to blow it out and see about that. Any other thoughts?

Much obliged, as always
Earth

God, do I love these trucks.:-D
 

Earth

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Corinth Vermont
That's what I'm starting to suspect. When I turned it off yesterday after a test drive, the odometer was at 9999.9 miles. So I was thinking maybe it always ran like crap. Guess I'll most likely be in the market for an engine in a can.
 

gimpyrobb

dumpsterlandingfromorbit!
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Get us a pic of the fdc. The rod the adjusting nut and jamb nut are on would help too. While at the Ga rally, we were looking at BigCase's ip and it needed turned up. Had some starting issues like you.
 

Earth

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Location
Corinth Vermont
Okay will do. But I did get the same problem from 2 different IPs, Fuel turned up down and back and forth and FDC bypassed, not bypassed and cussed at. :-D


But, I love these trucks

Earth
 
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