Trying to get the D*** brake drums off...

[Buckmaw]

You would SWEAR these things have never been off in 25 years!

It finally got too late to keep pounding on them so I will start again in the morning.
I put some PB Blaster on the lugs and hub area to soak.

I have to remove them to facilitate a rear wheel bearing replacement. I started to get a high pitched squeal only when fuel was being applied to maintain speed.

Got home, jacked it up and sure enough, the right rear was bad... Might as well change both since I have to pull the axle cover anyway...

I also installed a K&N filter and I applied my step drill to the filter holder to allow better air flow and WOW what a difference. It does much better at highway speeds and does not seem to be luggish and starving for air.

 

[LanceRobson]

I'm assuming you're asking about a drum that's rusted on and not moving at all, as opposed to one hung up on brake shoes that haven't been backed off.

I've had good luck with putting heat from a torch on the space between the studs and using a large cross peen or ball peen hammer while each space is still hot. It takes a lot of heat and be sure to put the lug nuts on the studs to protect them from the hammer (don't ask )

Sometimes using a sledge hammer (just for mass, not with a full swing) out near the rim and outer surface will pop it off.

Good luck.

Lance

 

[WarrenD]

What Lance said, be sure the brake shoes are backed off. After time, the shoes wear into the drum and create a ridge at the back of the drum. Back the shoes off big time and once they clear the ridge the drums should come right off.

 

[Barneyszoo]

Kroil!!!!

 

[rideni]

and if that fails ... plasma cutter

 

[Recovry4x4]

I hope that we are referring to an M1009. If not some of this advice is not going to work.

 

[acmunro]

A drum puller works great also if you can beg, borrow, rent one. Just make sure your brakes are backed off as prev posted, or you will bust up your hardware/shoes. Put some pressure on the puller and a few raps with a hammer and it should pop off.

 

[acmunro]

drum removal

I hope that we are referring to an M1009. If not some of this advice is not going to work.

I assumed he was since he said he had to remove the diff cover, but you know the old assume saying. LOL

 

[Westech]

I have only had to cut off one set of drums in my 16 years as a tech. if there shot just beat it with a hammer.. and not a nailing hammer! A rear hammer, a automotive hammer. If you are trying to save them hit the drum on the axle flange face and it will pop loose. Soaking it helps if you can let it sit over night buy in my shops we just smack it 3 or 4 times and it will come off. NOW HIT IT LIKE YOU GOT A PAIR!

 

[derby]

If they have not been off in 25 years you will probably end up buying new ones any way. In the past i have drilled a small 1/8" hole right where the hub and drum come together. it helps relieve the pressure there. I would not recommend this if you plan to re-use them.

 

[4x4 Forever]

Agree with the above: Make sure your brake pads are retracted and give it a few good wacks with a 2+ Pound hammer. Most likely you are going to have to get new ones. If the drums have even moderate wear, the shop you use to resurface the drum will not lathe it.

 

[Buckmaw]

The problem is there are no holes on the back side of the axle to loosen the brakes up. After a night of letting PB do its work, they both come off with a few
firm whacks of a hammer.

Now I'm about 1/3 of the way into the job. Going back out to pull the c clamp that holds the axle.

Fun, Fun, Fun..

 

[4x4 Forever]

When you put the new pads and drums back on you will have to coarse adjust the brakes. There should be a 'sideways' oval at the 6 oclock position on the back (inside or axleside) of the brake backing plate. If there is no hole, there should be a indented area where the hole should be, you have to knock that out. This usually means that you have a set of brakes that have never been touched. You can use a screwdriver or get the specialty tool from the autoparts store to do the coarse adjustment. Use a cold chistle to knock out the hole.

After you get the coarse adjustment done and the truck running do several forward and reverse moves. About 10 ft each way. This fine adjusts the brakes.

 

[Recovry4x4]

IIRC, some of the GM rears had the knock out plugs in the drums instead of the backing plates.