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Turbo rebuild costs?

ida34

Well-known member
4,120
33
48
Location
Dexter, MI
I have searched around in old posts and have not found the answer I need. I pulled the turbo to tap for a Pyro probe. With the turbo off I checked the play with my finder. There was some play. It spins free and the vanes have not contacted the housing. It is a D turbo. 1st question is what if any side play is acceptable? If is does need to be rebuilt then how much does it cost to get one rebuilt (ballpark figure)? Assume just the bearings need to be replaced. Also how much to get the upgrades to the turbo I have been seeing in posts to increase the efficiency? If you do not want to post please PM me.

Thanks
Chuck
 

FMJ

In Memorial
In Memorial
4,210
37
0
Location
Las Cruces, NM
Jwaller should chime in, or shoot him a pm, he quoted me a price to upgrade/rebuild mine. He may be able to help you out.
 

ida34

Well-known member
4,120
33
48
Location
Dexter, MI
I measured the side to side movement of the shaft. I was not able to get a straight on reading. I had to get a slightly angled reading on my dial indicator. I got .018 of side to side play on the shaft. The vanes do not contact the housing. Does this sound excessive? I am kind of on a time clock on this one. When my EUC clears I need to go get my M818 with the deuce.
 

Rattlehead

Member
645
3
18
Location
Michigan
Some play in the turbo bearings is normal. I am assuming that you are talking about radial play (vs axial play), which is the up and down play, perpindicular to the turbo shaft. Usually, it is advised to grab the compressor wheel nut and work it up and down (radially) while rotating it, and if it does not contact the housing then you are OK. You can also shine a flashlight inside the vanes and check for witness marks of housing contact.

If you don't have any evidence of oil blowing past the turbo seals and getting into the compressor area, and no housing contact on the compressor or turbine side, you should be all right.
 

Rattlehead

Member
645
3
18
Location
Michigan
Rattlehead said:
...grab the compressor wheel nut and work it up and down (radially) while rotating it, and if it does not contact the housing then you are OK.
Add:
If there is blade contact with the housing under this test, it will be felt as a binding against your effort of turning the wheel.
 

ida34

Well-known member
4,120
33
48
Location
Dexter, MI
I figured .018 was not a lot. I also figured when the turbo gets heated up it will tighten up. Thanks for the input.
 
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