turn signal problem

[dstang97]

turn signal problem UPDATE

only my hazzards work. verified all my lights work, checked fuses, tried 3 different flashers, nothing when i first get into the truck with out turning the key and move the lever the light lights up and does not flash. It should not come on at all. On a unrelated note i dont have power when I turn the key to acc. Is my steering colum messed up?

 

[jimm1009]

On CUCV trucks unlike civy counter parts, the turn signals are live all the time.
This is so that the PMCS can be done without the key in the ignition.
The same flasher powers the 4-way flasher lights and the turn signals. Like wise the same fuse powers both as well. Essentially the push-pull switch for the flashers just shorts all the turn signals together so that all 4 lights light up at once. If your turn signal switch has a click when moved up for right or down for left then your probably have a problem inside the steering column in the switch contacts and contact ring.
If you do not have a firm click when the turn signal arm is moved to left or right then it is also the switch.
NOTE: If you are thinking about changing your locks so not everyone in the world has a key to your truck AND you have proven that your switch is bad then now is the time for the ignition lock change too.
60% of the work is getting the steering wheel off which must be done for either operation so while your in there...
Let us know what you find in your exploring the problem and make sure to keep asking questions. This helps all of us learn about our beloved toys.

jimm1009

 

[dstang97]

wow I would have never guessed the turn signals are always powered. the switch has to be the problem. Looks like someone was in there before, new key steering wheel does not lock, no acc, no horn. Is it easier to tap into the column or to replace the whole unit. I have 2 extras (civi though)

 

[jimm1009]

I'm not too sure what the "extras" are that you are talking about.
If it is a whole steering column it is much easier to change the switch as you have wiring issues and the physical removal and installation of the assembly.
I change mine but only due to sever wear in the shaft.
The civy unit is the same and the only difference is the common keyed ingnition and the wiring at the fuse box.
The switches are all the same from military to civy as long as you stick with
switches for a non-tilt steering column.
I have two not-so-good pictures of my old column that I will attempt to post here. The one with my hand is the switch turned inside out so that you can see the forward side of the switch as it is installed.
The other is the rear side that faces the steering wheel.
In the first pic there are two brass tabs that are contacts and these wear out and/or break.
They are actually on the lower inside area but this is with the switch upside down as viewed in the picture.
I would go fo the switch as it can be done in an hour if you have all your duckies in a row.
You do need a steering wheel puller with two metric threaded bolts. I don't remember the size but it is very close to 5/6 inch fine thread.
The electric wire(s) takes a while to thread back down the steering column so perhaps when you pull the old one out attache a wire or strong string to it so that you have some thing to aide you while going back together.
There could be a timing issue too. This is for the wheel lock pin and the accessory portion not working.
There is a small square key-like device that is about 1.5 inches long with teeth on one edge that travels up and down the ignition lock as it is turned. This must be "timed" properly in order to work as GM intended.
Sometimes the locking pin is removed and discarded too. If you have another column then you have spare parts.
I recommne this- grab the wheel and pull it up and down before any disassembly. If you wheel seems to move in and out of the column as though the column is stretchin and contract then replace the whole column.
If seems ok here then repair it but is really up to you andyour available time. If you are not sure about the switch replacement then perhaps for you it would be better to replace the column assembly. Time and trouble is the key here as well as inclination.

jimm1009

 

[dstang97]

i have 2 complete steering columns, I'll take it apart and see what I come up with before switching it out

 

[jimm1009]

I added some stuff, sorry about that.
More to read...

 

[SPECIALTYLC]

The CUCV coloums dont have accessory power.

 

[dstang97]

Did some more exploring today. I hooked up my spare column to the truck and it did the same thing. One thing I did do was buy a HD flasher and try that.. Same results. Then I hooked up a test light to the lower flasher housing and Im getting power from both terminals all the time is that supposed to be like that?

 

[dstang97]

Update::: There was a diode that went across the back of the turn signal flasher terminals that went bad. I have no idea why it was there but its fixed now.